.458 Lott?

[smokemaker]

I have an Interarms Mk X big ring mauser in .458 Winchester. I was wondering what would be required besides reaming the chamber a little longer to make the big girl a .458 Lott. I'm looking for a few more FPS with the 500 grain solids, and that looks like an easy fix, but the magazine may be too short. Any info would be appreciated

 

[H&Hhunter]

I am not sure as to the length of your magazine box but if it will accomidate the the Lott OAL is 3.6" and most .458 magazine boxes are long enough.

If that is the case a Lott reamer and about ten minutes and you've got your self a .458Lott.

You'll love the Lott it's a fantastic caliber.

 

[smokemaker]

I'll have to dig out my inside calipers later.

Thanks H&H.

I've heard great things about the Lott, and I always thought the Winnie was just a touch slow for its weight.
Besides, the stock was cracked at the comb when I got it, so I bought a fancy synthetic stock with a decelerator pad, and it makes the gun a real sweetie to shoot. Otherwise, the bluing and machine quality are outstanding, and I got it for a song. It's one of those "I don't need it, but I can't let it go for the price" guns.

 

[Kestrel]

H&H,

I have a question. I have a CZ550 Magnum in .458 Win Mag that I would like to have converted to Lott. Your comment about a "reamer and 10 minutes" made me wonder - what exactly does a reamer look like and how is it employed? Is it some sort of machine bit that is put in a lathe or drill press or milling machine? (I have assumed it's not a hand-tool and not something a home tinkerer could do.)

Thanks,
Steve

 

[HankB]

I've read that "sometimes" feeding problems result if/when someone converts a .458 Win to .458 Lott. You may have to do some rail work.

Once in a while you get lucky, but generally speaking, things are seldom as easy as they "should" be.

 

[H&Hhunter]

Your comment about a "reamer and 10 minutes" made me wonder - what exactly does a reamer look like and how is it employed? Is it some sort of machine bit that is put in a lathe or drill press or milling machine? (I have assumed it's not a hand-tool and not something a home tinkerer could do.)

Steve,

Actually many reamers are a hand tool depending on how much reaming is to be done. I would suspect that most Smith use a lathe. I would not attempt to do the Lott conversion (ream) on my own have some one who knows what they are doing help you.

However you can order a Lott reamer for around $60.00 from Brownells and have a good smithy do the reaming for you. A reamer is nothing more than a sized and shaped drill bit.

 

[redneck]

You can buy finish reamers that have a guide to keep them in line with the bore which are turned by hand. You also need headspace gauges to make sure you don't go too far though.

 

[Byron Quick]

I've got a Brno 602 in .458 Lott. European style walnut stock. I've grown to like the hogsback stock.

OK, chamber reamed to .458 Lott. Might need some rail work if cartridges won't feed reliably.

What about strengthening the stock? I've read about putting crossbolts in...
Bedding?

 

[Kestrel]

Well, actually, my plan is to probably send it to Jim Brockman and have him do the conversion. Also, add a second crossbolt and maybe bed the action. May even think about having it put into a good synthetic stock (McMillan?).

Steve

 

[Wildalaska]

Hank and Byron you hit the nail on the head!

Most 458/458 Lott conversions do require some tweaking for feeding. Crossbolts are not necessary as long as the rifle is bedded properly. We have built Lotts both with Pacific Research stocks and beleive it or not, lightweight Hi Tech stocks...

Most of the Lotts we build are rebarrel jobs though. We have done a bunch

WildstemitreamitdreamitAlaska

 

[HankB]

I've got a Brno 602 in .458 Lott . . . What about strengthening the stock? I've read about putting crossbolts in...

Some manufacturers of good rifles don't really understand what it takes to make a good HEAVY CALIBER rifle. Crossbolts are a really good idea. My Zambian PH had a couple of older Brno rifles - the ones with the pop-up peep sight in the rear receiver - and I spotted hairline cracks in BOTH the .375 and the .458.

Neither one had crossbolts.

The problem is that under recoil, the wood on either side of the magazine box will have a tendency to flex outwards - this causes a tension in the wood ahead of and behind the magazine box, which leads to cracks. Crossbolts in front of and behind the magazine box do much to alleviate this.

Also, a "heavy" rifle shouldn't depend only on the recoil lug at the front of the receiver - there should be another one on the barrel, six or eight inches ahead of the receiver. I like to glass bed both lugs, the barrel between them, and the receiver, leaving the barrel ahead of the barrel lug free floated. (But the barrel channel glassed.)

Sometimes a piece of quarter or three eights inch allthread is epoxied into a deep hole drilled and tapped through the wrist area of the stock.

As far as stock brands, I don't have enough experience to advise on which synthetics are best. I do know that Bell & Carlson started putting a steel reinforcement in the recoil lug area of their stocks meant for "heavy" calibers. (OK, B&C is not the most highly regarded synthetic stock maker, but the one I put on my .30/06 works fine . . . after some fitting & bedding to refine the "drop in" fit.)

 

[H&Hhunter]

Ok here goes when it comes to stocks. i started off with a brown precsion on my .458 Lott. it shot out of it three times cross bolts and all. So I installed a forward recoil lug and bedded it as hank suggests. Problem solved. But in the mean time I discovered another quick fix solution.

it's called a houge over mold with a full aluminum bedding block. That SOB is UGLY but stronger than you can imagine. that is what actually went on the gun when I went to Tanzania last time as my Brown Precision was in disrepair.

I forgot to mention the possible stock problems when you kick up to a Lott. My mod 70 conversions almost never need any modification to feed properly however. And as I said now that my rifle has a forward recoil lug the stock cracking seems to have dissapeared.

Thanks for bringing that up Hank.

 

[Kestrel]

HankB,

What's the trouble with B&C stocks? I didn't know they weren't very highly regarded. I don't have one, but have thought of buying one.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[HankB]

SteveW13, there seems to be some "synthetic stock snobbery" against B&C as they don't cost as much as other stocks, and lack things like aluminum bedding blocks.

As I wrote, I have one on my .30/06 and have found it to be stable and strong. And the dimensions suit me.

The only problem is, it wasn't a true "drop in" fit. Sure, the action "dropped in" but the groups I was getting were about 1" high and 4" wide. I traced this to the recoil lug on the action not being *exactly* parallel to the mating part on the stock, and a couple of cross ribs in the barrel channel lightly contacting the barrel.

So . . . I glass bedded the bottom and sides of the action (avoiding the back of the tang at the rear of the action), the recoil lug contact area, and the first two inches of barrel with Acraglas Gel. And I also relieved the reinforcing ribs in the barrel channel just enough so the barrel won't touch.

This was a pretty easy process - if you can detail-strip a firearm, you can glass bed it; it's not rocket science.

The result is a comfortable, soft-shooting rifle that will keep five rounds of either my match or Ballistic Tip handloads in a 3/4" group if I do my part.

Would I buy another B&C? For a .30/06 class rifle, heck yeah! But since it lacks provision for a forward recoil lug, I wouldn't choose one for a real "heavy" like a .458 Lott.

 

[Kestrel]

Hank,

Thanks for the info. What other synthetic stocks would you recommend? By the way, how are the Hogue Overmolded stocks? It seems to me, with the rubber covering, it might be a bit uncomfortable on the cheek piece? Are they good stocks? As good as the B&C?

What I'm looking for, are stocks for a Rem 700 stainless, a Win M70 Stainless and a couple of CZ 550 Magnum rifles. (And maybe a M700 BDL.)

Thanks,
Steve

 

[HankB]

What other synthetic stocks would you recommend?

SteveW13 - Sorry, but I don't have enough experience with other synthetic stocks to offer an informed opinion.

 

[H&Hhunter]

Steve,

Like I said earlier I've had a Houge on my .458Lott. It's hell for stout but I don't like the shape, and yes the rubber coat does tend to be grabby on your face. I solved that with a 1/4" cheek eze pad.