5.56 by barrel length

[herrwalther]

The lack of ammo availability has me researching reloading more. Specifically in 9mm and 5.56. I have two AR-15s. One is 10.5" barrel and the other is 16", both are 1:7 twist. While components are just as hard to find, I like to workup loads in advance so I know what I am shopping for.

So what are some good load recipes that will work in both barrel lengths? For factory ammo I shoot M193 and M855, so keeping with that performance area (or better) is what I am looking for. Purpose would be self defense and hunting in a pinch.

 

[jebova2301]

Define your meaning of "performance" for us. Are you talking about energy downrange? Accuracy? Lethality? Long range distance?

M193 and M855 are kind of the "meh" bullets in the .223/5.56 world in my experience. They are sort of a "jack of all trades, master of none" bullet. They shoot somewhat accurate, provide exceptional damage at close range, and work well at moderate ranges if they tumble upon impact. Really, finding something that performs as well or better than them shouldn't be too difficult.

I mean, the basic stuff you're going to need is brass and primers, and for general range use and hunting, brand doesn't make a whole lot of difference on those. After that, the bullet and powder selections and combinations are almost limitless.

My go-to varmint/coyote load is 55gr vmax sitting on top of 25.4 grains of imr 8208 xbr seated to a COAL of 2.250". Out of my ar that was built for precision shooting, it typically nets around 0.5-0.7MOA. obviously, no two barrels are the same, so you're going to have to play around to find what works best. If I'm not running that load, it is el cheapo Hornady 55gr soft point bullets on top of 27.5gr of WC-844(do NOT use this as a baseline if you buy wc-844, as it can vary wildly and if you get a fast burning lot, could be catastrophic) seated at 2.225" COAL and they hold about 1MOA from the fancy rifle and about 1.5moa from any others in my collection.

For plain blasting ammo, Hornady 55gr fmj over 27gr of wc-844(again, same warning as the last one on wc-844) seated to 2.250" COAL. Gives me under 2MOA groups from all of my rifles.

 

[Charlie98]

If you are looking to duplicate factory with FMJ bullets, one of the ball powders will work... H335, BL-C(2), W748, TAC, and others in that burn range. I would probably stay away from extruded powders (like most IMR powders) unless you are scaling your powder individually.

If you are working for accuracy rounds... then all bets are off, you would have to pick a powder tailored to your bullet weight and for each barrel length.

 

[herrwalther]

M193 and M855 are kind of the "meh" bullets in the .223/5.56 world in my experience. They are sort of a "jack of all trades, master of none" bullet. They shoot somewhat accurate, provide exceptional damage at close range, and work well at moderate ranges if they tumble upon impact. Really, finding something that performs as well or better than them shouldn't be too difficult.

Accuracy and similar POI/POA. I am leaning toward the same grain bullet to keep the sights set the same. FMJ bullets like the 855 and 193 are not great for damage on impact in soft tissue compared to open tip or hollow point rounds. I interchange between M193 and M855 in my 16" rifle. I leave the sights the same as the point of impact isn't different enough to change the sights. The load I work up would ideally be the same. I haven't fired the AR pistol yet so some of my stockpiled factory ammo will be to get those sights on paper and zeroed. I have been reloading just long enough to start at minimum then work up to find the sweet spot for a rifle.

If you are looking to duplicate factory with FMJ bullets, one of the ball powders will work... H335, BL-C(2), W748, TAC, and others in that burn range. I would probably stay away from extruded powders (like most IMR powders) unless you are scaling your powder individually.

Extruded powder is what I used working up loads in a 7mm-08 rifle I had awhile back, IMR 4064. It doesn't meter as well out of my powder measure compared to ball or flake powders, but I plan to upgrade that when I start loading 5.56 and 9mm in earnest. The only thing I load for right now is 35Rem as a primary hunting round.

 

[DMW1116]

I'm not sure about velocity but I've had good luck with accuracy with 75 grain Hornady and IMR 4064 in a 16" barrel. AR pistols are too loud for me so I don't have any information on the 10.5.

 

[Charlie98]

Well, I have seen, of the few powders out there, 8# jugs of H335... so it’s out there, occasionally, and that’s what I would suggest. Again, if you are hand measuring, it doesn’t matter, but IMR4064 wouldn’t be my first choice, either.

 

[Bfh_auto]

Accuracy and similar POI/POA. I am leaning toward the same grain bullet to keep the sights set the same. FMJ bullets like the 855 and 193 are not great for damage on impact in soft tissue compared to open tip or hollow point rounds. I interchange between M193 and M855 in my 16" rifle. I leave the sights the same as the point of impact isn't different enough to change the sights. The load I work up would ideally be the same. I haven't fired the AR pistol yet so some of my stockpiled factory ammo will be to get those sights on paper and zeroed. I have been reloading just long enough to start at minimum then work up to find the sweet spot for a rifle.



Extruded powder is what I used working up loads in a 7mm-08 rifle I had awhile back, IMR 4064. It doesn't meter as well out of my powder measure compared to ball or flake powders, but I plan to upgrade that when I start loading 5.56 and 9mm in earnest. The only thing I load for right now is 35Rem as a primary hunting round.

A case full of 4064 and almost any 224 bullet will give better accuracy than your factory ammo.
You will be dealing with powder bridging in the funnel.
I like CFE223 with a 52 hp or 55 sp for general shooting.
You usually can buy decent bullets in 250 piece bags for a little more than fmj.

 

[Charlie98]

You usually can buy decent bullets in 250 piece bags for a little more than fmj.

I agree. I’ve pretty much stopped buying cheapo 55grn bullets, and have been using 62grn BTHP’s...

 

[Bfh_auto]

I agree. I’ve pretty much stopped buying cheapo 55grn bullets, and have been using 62grn BTHP’s...

I tried. They are spray and pray in my guns. It kind of makes me sad.

 

[DMW1116]

A positive note for CFE223 is encouraging. It was all that was on the shelf last time I got powder. I got it for 308, but I should have plenty left for some 223 if I can score primers.

 

[Bfh_auto]

A positive note for CFE223 is encouraging. It was all that was on the shelf last time I got powder. I got it for 308, but I should have plenty left for some 223 if I can score primers.

It works well in 308 if your not worried about velocity loss.
I wouldn't say it's the best for 223 by any means. But it worked very well with the 62 varmagedon through the 40 VMAX.
If your with your load in the cold. Use the bottom edge of your accuracy node. It saves your brass when it gets hot.
I do the inverse when is hot.

 

[DMW1116]

For the load I'm after, accuracy is first, but velocity should be adequate for all the ranges I shoot. I should have enough to compare it to some H335 in saving. Those will be for a 20" barrel though. I don't intend to try it for the 16" barrel so won't be much help there.

 

[film495]

I'm on a similar path as the OP. anyone loaded H4895 reduced loads for .223? thinking plinking rounds, shooting soda jugs a 50ish yards and that type of thing. curious how low you can go on powder and still get the action to cycle.

 

[Lennyjoe]

I use Hornady 55 gr FMJ over 25 gr of H-335 out of my 10”, 16” and 18” barrels and they are all very accurate.

 

[herrwalther]

I'm on a similar path as the OP. anyone loaded H4895 reduced loads for .223? thinking plinking rounds, shooting soda jugs a 50ish yards and that type of thing. curious how low you can go on powder and still get the action to cycle.

Depends on the bullet weight. According to my Lee manual, minimum load for H4895 with a 55gr bullet is 25 grains. Very few texts include information on whether a charge will cycle an action like the AR or not. Looking for a reduced load, I would start at the minimum and go down until the bolt doesn't fully cycle anymore. The most dangerous part about this is you have to check the barrel after every round! Once you start playing below the minimums, your chance of a squib load go up sharply.

I'm not sure about velocity but I've had good luck with accuracy with 75 grain Hornady and IMR 4064 in a 16" barrel. AR pistols are too loud for me so I don't have any information on the 10.5.

I have a flash can on my 10.5" so that should redirect the sound and blast forward of the shooter. Right now it is a stepping stone until I can get the funds and paperwork for a suppressor for it. 4064 was a great powder in my 7mm-08. I may try this powder first because I think I still have some. It has been awhile since I have looked at my current supplies.

 

[film495]

Depends on the bullet weight. According to my Lee manual, minimum load for H4895 with a 55gr bullet is 25 grains. Very few texts include information on whether a charge will cycle an action like the AR or not. Looking for a reduced load, I would start at the minimum and go down until the bolt doesn't fully cycle anymore. The most dangerous part about this is you have to check the barrel after every round! Once you start playing below the minimums, your chance of a squib load go up sharply.

Hodgdon says you can download H4895 to 60% of the max load, and start from there as the beginning charge. This would put the beginning charge down in the 15 grains range for a 55gr projectile - looking at the Hodgdon site reloading data, which if that worked - would save a lot of powder for shooting at soda jugs and steel plates. Never done it, I always just wondered if you can save nearly 10 grains per charge, that seems valuable enough to see if it works. I'll probably try it at some point.

 

[herrwalther]

Hodgdon says you can download H4895 to 60% of the max load, and start from there as the beginning charge. This would put the beginning charge down in the 15 grains range for a 55gr projectile - looking at the Hodgdon site reloading data, which if that worked - would save a lot of powder for shooting at soda jugs and steel plates. Never done it, I always just wondered if you can save nearly 10 grains per charge, that seems valuable enough to see if it works. I'll probably try it at some point.

Max load of H4895 is 26 grains for 55gr bullet. My math on the 60% statement is starting load is 15.6gr. That might be the minimum safe charge by the publisher but there is no way to tell if it will cycle an AR until you try it. You can still use the number though. Start at say 25gr and go down 0.5 or whole grain at a time to see where it stops cycling. It might stop at 15.6 or higher. Then work up to see where it cycles again.

 

[DMW1116]

I used IMR 4064 because I snagged 2 lbs a while back and it would work in all the rifle rounds I wanted to reload - 30-30, 308, and 223. I have had a bit of trouble finding data for it and cobbled together my load from Hornady, Lyman, and Hodgdons website.