58 Remington

Status
Not open for further replies.

gasmandave

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Messages
145
Location
South Carolina
I have 3 Pietta 58 NMA Remingtons 8" in 44. Been thinking about shortening the barrels. 1 would be to a 5.5 length and 1 to a 3" length and then round butt the grip. I have a dovetail front sight for the 5.5, and thinking of a brass post for the other. I just can't figure how to shorten the ram levers so that they will lock in and hold the cylinder pins.
Any ideas? Pictures would be of great help
 
s7CAhN9.jpg
I did a 2-1/2" and 3" gun last year. I shortened the loading levers, bored through the upper portion and into the cylinder-axis-pin, slotted this hole and made a spring-plunger with a crosspiece to fit the slot. The spring s retained by a 1/16" nail inserted through a hole in the top at the muzzle-end. I used a shortened spring from a ball-point click pen. Pull forward on the cross-pin to release the lever and there you are. This arraingement stands up to recoil quite well; I've never had the lever drop when firing.
 
View attachment 759108
I did a 2-1/2" and 3" gun last year. I shortened the loading levers, bored through the upper portion and into the cylinder-axis-pin, slotted this hole and made a spring-plunger with a crosspiece to fit the slot. The spring s retained by a 1/16" nail inserted through a hole in the top at the muzzle-end. I used a shortened spring from a ball-point click pen. Pull forward on the cross-pin to release the lever and there you are. This arraingement stands up to recoil quite well; I've never had the lever drop when firing.

The 1/16 nail comes through the top of the ram? Can the retaining pin be "L" configured and not a "T"?
 
The 1/16 nail comes through the top of the ram? Can the retaining pin be "L" configured and not a "T"?

It could be an L, but the T is easier to use.
I hope the blog post makes things clearer and answers your question. The 1/16" nail retains the spring and plunger, the plunger protrudes into the hole on the end of the cylinder-axis rod.

Pictures at the bottom of the blog post should make this clear. If not, ask away!
 
Or, one can replicate the original set up, but using an Uberti dovetailed lever stud. It won't be much more difficult to make than Michael's solution.
 
Some time back I had seen someone put a pivot in the cylinder pin and used the original latch system on something like 3.5" of barrel.
 
I just can't figure how to shorten the ram levers so that they will lock in and hold the cylinder pins.
Any ideas?
Those are cool if you want to keep the loading levers and maintain the muzzle loader status, OR you could simply remove the loading levers, and add a conversion cylinder in .45 Colt/.45 Schofield. ;) The .45 Scohfield comes out pretty peppy. :thumbup:

LD
 
I have a Pietta Remington 1858 sherriff, a box of 240 grain conicals, and a pound of Triple Seven fffg powder. what load should I put behind that big slug to get good penetration without blowing myself up?
 
I have a Pietta Remington 1858 sherriff, a box of 240 grain conicals, and a pound of Triple Seven fffg powder. what load should I put behind that big slug to get good penetration without blowing myself up?
I was loading 35gr for a 230gr LRNFP in 45 Colt for mine. But cut back to 25gr for cowboy shooting.
 
Looking at the possibility of de-bluing my Remmy in vinegar. I'm assuming that you have to completely disassemble the pistol and only de-bluing the frame, barrel, cylinder and ram lever. Not the hammer or trigger. Correc
 
That is what I did to the one i posted the pic of up above^^^^. I used vinegar to remove the shiny new bluing. But since that picture, I had to use it briefly as an on film gun in a scene, so I cold blued it and then put a lot of holster wear to age it. So it is no longer silver or in the white. I've also added a conversion cylinder in .45 colt to switch back and forth between it and the cap and ball for different time periods.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top