586 - Stuck Trigger/Cylinder

[BADUNAME4]

Just took my 586/6" out today for the first time. I bought it used. Seems like the original owner never (or rarely) shot it. Shoots GREAT.
During 50 rounds the trigger and cylinder got locked 3 times. Each time I shook and wiggled it until it unfroze. Shot the last 10 rounds or so flawlessly.
Is this very likely a break-in issue that'll resolve itself?
Thanks.

 

[kle]

IANAGunsmith, but my take is that it's probably a cylinder-binding issue. Possibly caused by excessive propellant build-up on the cylinder face? Or it could be the brass getting stuck to the recoil shield. Check the cylinder-barrel gap--too close (apparently anything closer than .002" or .003") and it'll bind up, too loose (> .005" or .006") and you'll lose velocity...

if all else fails, have a gunsmith look at it.

 

[Starter52]

Another thought - gunk under the star extractor. Clean that area.

Also: check that the ejector rod is screwed in tight.

While you're at it, check all the screws.

 

[CommanderPoopyduX]

Were you letting the trigger go all the way forward before repulling it?

 

[Bullet Bob]

Is it a 586- "no dash? That is, when you look at the model number engraved on the frame when the cylinder is open, does it say "586" or "586-1"? If it doesn't have a dash after the 586, does it have an "M" stamped on it somewhere?

The 586 "no-dashes" were subject to a recall because the firing pin hole was too large, and some of them, with some primers, would freeze up - the ones returned to the factory and modified were stamped with an M. If yours is a "no-dash", and doesn't have the "M", call S&W - they'll pay for shipping and do the modification for free.

If yours is a dash-1 or later, I agree with the above posts.

Also, some powders are really dirty and will get under the extractor star as stated above, causing problems.

 

[BADUNAME4]

Thanks for the replies. It's a "MOD 586" so I'll give S&W a buzz. Also, the cylinder/barrel gap is almost not there, but I was using cheap ammo too. I was letting the trigger go all the way, too, so that's likely not it.

 

[Mot45acp]

I just went through this with the same gun.
$100 later and very poor communication for a warranty job left me displeased. Not to mention 3 months of waiting.
The sheet returned with the gun stating work done was blank except for the total.
But my gun works.

 

[BADUNAME4]

In that case I'll just keep shooting it (almost out of my crap ammo) and hope it works itself out. If not, I'll have it framed and hang it on the wall. Had a really bad experience with a gunsmith and am very gunshy. Surprisingly, Ruger gave me a brand new SP101 for my troubles when they really didn't have to.

 

[Troutman]

<<Also, the cylinder/barrel gap is almost not there, but I was using cheap ammo too.>>

That’s why it happening, because of the two conditions mentioned?
I have a 500 model (bought new) that did what you described. It was only doing it with a certain type and make of ammo, UltraMax, new Ammo, not re-manufactured (325 gr. JHP). Yet, using UltraMax 330 gr. (lead) did not cause the same problem as their 325 gr. JHP did. Both loads use “accurate” powder. The same type of “accurate” powder, I don’t know?
I understand about using “cheap” ammo, as for cleaning the gun more often. And I can understand, that shooting dirty ammo (a lot of rounds), you will start to feel a resistance. But it should not lock up the firearm (cylinder), (shooting sometimes 7, and at times 15 rounds) what S & W calls “cylinder cramps”.
I don’t know if this was the cause of the problem (cheap ammo), but when I told them about the problem, and sent the gun to S & W for them to take a look at it, under warranty. Their letter read; have been examined and adjusted to our standards. They repaired the yoke, cut the forcing cone and repaired BBL and replaced screws on side plate, thumb screw (not related to problem), and screw for muzzle comp (not related to problem). They also replaced the rear sight assy. (not related to problem).
I could have just solved the problem by, not using UltraMax, being in the military, that’s a no go, by me. I just do not want to be restricted to a certain type and make of ammo for any type of firearm. Yes, I do understand, when they test their revolvers. They don’t, or possibility could test all manufactures’ ammo out their.
They paid for the shipping both ways (next day air), and they only took 7 days for the work that was done on it.
Now, I have no problem using UltraMax or any other “dirty” (per say) ammo.

 

[Troutman]

If you don’t get it repaired or looked at. And you leave it alone. Leave the forcing cone area and cylinder face, free of any oil. Keep those areas “dry”. Even using “clean burning” ammo.

 

[Snapping Twig]

First, make sure under the ejector star is clean. If this area is spotless and it's still happening and your gun is a 586 no dash W/O the M stamp, verify if the primers are getting stuck under the firing pin - too large of an insert was the problem, letting the primer flow into the area around the hammer. S&W will fix this under warranty.

S&W revolvers are subject to dirt under the ejector star and if you don't eject the rounds correctly (barrel up, a brisk stroke) then residue gets under the star and binds the cylinder as you described.

 

[Bullet Bob]

Anybody can have a bad warranty experience, but if you'll do a search, you'll see S&W has one of the best reputations in the business. Give them a call - if they say you have to pay anything, I'll eat some crow.

 

[Flyrodder]

In my experience, the cylinder is very hard or impossible to close when burnt powder or anything else gets under the extractor star.
Flyrodder

 

[BADUNAME4]

Just got it back from S&W. The fee was extremely reasonable. They pretty much took it apart and put it back together ensuring that all is well along the way. There was something binding in there somewhere. Overall, a very seamless and positive experience with S&W.