586 cylinder lock up

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Mot45acp

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Just got a nice 586. First round locked the cylinder. I am a noob to revos. I had to beat it with my fist to get the cylinder to pop out. It only did it on first round. I have fired 12 .357 and 36 38 sp +p jhp. (it did it w/ 357)

What do I need to start looking for to restore my faith in this fine gun?

Additional info: Older model w/ firing pin on hammer, hammer n trigger are case hardened. mod 586 no dashes or anything. Doesnt spray lead.Possible trigger job unless they are all that nice. No front to back play, minimal rotate/side to side play in cylinder.

Like I said I'm a noob with revolver fever

Mot
 
Warranty/Recall

586 no-dash and 586-1 should have an "M" stamped near the model number signifying it was Modified per recall. If not, send it to S&W for free warranty/recall work. I don't know if that will solve the problem, but tell them to look into it while they have it for the warranty work. They'll probably pay shipping both ways.
 
Possibly primer extrusion. Sometimes it happens . If you still have the spent case that caused the problem, check to see if the primer is pushed out of the primer pocket.

Backed out primers: This condition is predominately caused by low chamber pressure rather than oversized primer pockets. When struck, the ignition pressure of the primer compound drives the primer slightly from the cartridge case. The powder charge is then ignited and, under normal operating pressures, the case will follow the primer to the breech face of the firearm, seating the primer, resulting in a normal fired case/primer appearance.

When a power charge does not generate sufficient pressure, the primer charge will still back the primer out, but there will be insufficient pressure for the cartridge case to follow and the primer will be left protruding slightly from the case. If the problem were a loose primer pocket, the case would still have enough pressure to be driven back flush with the primer.

You can find more info. here. http://www.realguns.com/archives/023.htm
 
If you can find out where the locking occurs, that's half the battle. If it seems to lock at the back, examine the primers and case. Is the primer backed out at all? Are there scratches on the primer or case indicating that it/they were dragged across the back of the gun? Also check the extraction rod. Is everything screwed in nice and tight? Finally, check the barrel/cylinder gap. If it's excessive (anything over .009), it may mean there's a headspace problem.

The actions on these guns are that nice. But how did you happen on this fine revolver? Did you buy it from a friend? I hate to say it, but oftentimes when someone has a problem with a firearm, they sell it.
 
Cant get the inside jaws of calipers in there. I have machining shims at work that I might fit into the gap. Is there another way to get this dimension? I tried measuring the gap from frame to face of cylinder then subtracting how far the barrel comes in from the frame to meet the cylinder, (.012) but due to the frame being in the way I could not square up to the barrel to get accurate dimensions.

When the problem occured I looked at the rear of the cylinder from the side to investigate befor using force. I could see daylight between primer and frame, so I do not believe it was a primer issue.

No dash or "M"

On the rear face of the cylinder 2 of the chambers have bluing gone in a circular pattern that is not concentric to the chamber.

What was the original recall for? They dont do anything like add that friggin lock to it do they?

Thank You for responses
Mot

ps I traded a friend a 20" bushy upper that I got for $250. With exception of the 2 chambers mentioned above, it has all blueing even on edges around muzzle and no scratches or anything. Almost looks like the silver nitrate finish. The kind where the metel looks like its melting in your hands. 6" bbl w/full underlug
 
As said above, check to make sure the ejector rod is tight. If it backs out, and it will if it's not tight, it will prevent the cylinder from swinging out. You will have to depress the forward plunger.
 
Its much easyer to run a piece of xray film or a thin feeler gage under the cyllinder and slide it back to depress the cyllinder lock , then turn the cyl to tighten the ejector rod untill you can remove it than it is to pry around up front trying to release it lol .
 
Check the ejector rod. It should screw down counter clockwise, you may need to take it apart and use a little blue locktite on the threads to prevent it from unscrewing again.

When I had an N frame refuse to open I used a pencil eraser to hold the end of the rod and a piece of 35 mm film to hold the cylinder bolt down. I cradled the gun in my lap upside down while I did this.
 
Everything is tight.
I may send it to them if they dont put that key hole in it.
This is the first gun that I had a problem with that I intend to keep. I may consider engraving.
I have some nice guns but this has somethin special about it. I thought cuz its new, or I got a decent deal on it. But Ive gotten 3 new ones in the last week (that work) but I still find me sittin in my favorite recliner wiping this one down with a silicone embeded cloth most the night.
 
If it ain't the ejector rod, it's the no dash and dash 1 recall. Email Smith and they'll reply with their FEDEX acct# and instructions. Aren't they a nice company lock and all? Fixing a +20 yr old gun for you.

No they won't put a lock on it. That costs more money.
 
S + W response

"We will need to review it. Please view attachment"
Attachment requires me to register some MS program that came on my cpu. It needs the 25 character product key on the cd case. I never got the cd case. I guess it takes a phone call.

Its not thier fault that I can barley work this machine (cpu). I wish I could post pics of markings on rear of cylinder but despite being shown numerous times I cant resize them to be worth a ...
Thanks to all responses. Updates pending phone call pending.
 
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