6.5 creedmoor antelope hunt sight in

[68lemans462]

Hey guys.. I have an old Ruger M77 that I just had re-barreled with a Shilen 6.5mm chambered in 6.5 creed. I've only had the gun out once for barrel break-in and to get it on paper and only at 100 yards and it looks like it could be a great shooter. I'm heading out to chase some speed goats this weekend and would love to knock one down with this. The load I'm planning to use (if it shoots good tonight) is:

Nosler Accubond 130
41G IMR 4350
Fed Match primer/Hornady brass

My question is this.. I was told if I sight this in 3" high at 100 yards that I'll be able to hold pretty much "dead on" up to 300 yards. Is this true? If not, where would you guys sight in? I'm expecting 300-400 yard shot, the last goat I shot in this area was at 325 yds...

 

[horsey300]

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?t=813cffa7

3" high is a 200 yd zero still 8(ish) low at 300yds. If you're Absolutely certain of a long range shot I recommend strelok or hornady calculator (awesome technology these days) and zero at 250. This should, I repeat SHOULD (test it tonight) allow holdover just above the backline at 300 and just under the bellyline at 200. This is based on the average size of antelope around here. Alternatively, most antelope I've clocked at 200+ will allow you time to adjust elevation before shooting, so if you zero at 200, and range a 300 shot you should be able to adjust the .5MIL or 2moa and shoot dead center.

 

[68lemans462]

The range I'm sighting in at only has 100 yard range... I'm unable to get sighted in at 200 before Saturday unfortunately...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[horsey300]

This is nosler supplied on their ablr https://fusiontables.googleusercont...+col4+=+60091+order+by+col0+asc&tmplt=1&cpr=1

 

[horsey300]

The range I'm sighting in at only has 100 yard range... I'm unable to get sighted in at 200 before Saturday unfortunately...

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Are you using MIL or moa? I'll help you on that 100 yd range issue, I've successfully sighted in my 243 for 300 yd deer vitals using a 50yd target.

 

[horsey300]

A 7inch vital zone at 300 yds equals .65 mils... .65 at 100 yds is about 2inches, zero 7" high at 100 puts you at 250 if your muzzle velocity is 2800. Of course you can't prove it until you're at a longer range, but that's a good place to start if you want to shoot without verification. In 50 yd steps bullet drop from 200 is: 2.95 7.44 13.58 21.46

 

[horsey300]

Also, this is last minute for hunting this weekend but a bdc scope or mildot would take a LOT of trouble out of the equation for you, learning the mildot is not terribly complicated but if you have a good rangefinder, a bdc would be easier.

 

[Sunray]

No$ler shows ballistics for their ammo using a 129 grain bullet(close enough) with 2850 fps MV(Hornady shows 41.1 of IMR4350 is running about 2700 fps with a 143 grain bullet). Sighted in at 100, they say it drops 12.1" at 300. 7.1" if sighted in at 200. Drops 27.1" at 400 with the 200 yard sight in.
A 140 isn't any better.
Hornady shows a 129 staring at 2950, drops 6.8" at 300 when sighted in at 200.
Think I'd forget 300 plus yard shots for the time being.

 

[Captcurt]

A 3" high sight in should put you around 4" high at 200, on about 275, and 14" low at 400.

I have been playing with 3 Creedmoors and with a 6X18 Vortex Crossfire II with BDC, the BDC is dead on out to 500 yards. That was with a load 129 Accubond LR at 2750. I can ring plates all day with it.

 

[horsey300]

I do feel inclined to agree with Sunray here. Based on given trajectories, and we've covered several, your Max range should be limited to 300 yds max. You should be able to stalk to within that range with minimal effort. Your cartridge is capable of making a killing shot at longer distances, but unless you can reliably and consistently range and hit your targets at 350 and 400 yds, then making those shots on a living animal with so many variables at those distances just is not the wisest. I know plenty of hunters that limit their own ranges for practical reasons. They are quite successful. I do wish you luck this weekend and hope you have a successful and enjoyable hunt!

 

[Casefull]

If the elevation from where you sight in at compared to where you hunt is a large difference, say over 4,000 ft delta, I would also take that into consideration.

 

[jmr40]

Unless I thought a 300 yard shot was the closest shot I'd likely get I'd zero at 100 yards. When you start zeroing 2"-3" high at 100 yards you just complicate issues and run the risk of shooting over an animal at close range. Or hitting brush that is not in your line of sight. With a 100 yard zero most cartridges will be within 1/2" of your line of sight from near the muzzle out to about 130-140 yards; where 90% of all game is taken even in the west. You'll only be 2"-3" low at 200 and still make hits with little or no holdover out to 300 yards. Most deer size game have a 12-16" kill zone. Elk size game 18"-24". Even with 12" of bullet drop a hold on the top of the back will hit the lower edges of the kill zone on most game.

Assuming the drops previous posters have shown are accurate you can still hit most deer size game out to 300 yards by simply holding the cross hairs so you see a touch of daylight between them and the animals back.

All of my rifles are zeroed at 100. If I estimate the animal is at 200 or less I hold in the center. If I estimate it is over 200 yards I'll hold an inch or 2 high and can easily keep all shots inside a typical kill zone to 300 yards.

Even with a 200 yard zero you'll still be low enough to miss at 300 yards unless you hold high on the back. It ain't that much harder to see daylight between the cross hair and animals back.

It is only when you start shooting at 500 yards or farther that zeroing 2"-3" high at 100 start to showing real benefits. And at those ranges you'd still be better off zeroing at 100 yards and using a scope with dials.

 

[Gtscotty]

I use the maximum point blank range method to sight in my hunting rifles. My .270 is sighted in 2.5 inches high at 100, which puts me on a 250 yds, and about 3.5 inches low at 300. I've found both Shooter and the Hornady ballistics calculator put me pretty close on to what I actually see shooting out to 300 and 400 yds. That said, to get a good output, you really need to have good input data, including MV, BC, scope height, etc. It doesn't sound like you have chronographed your load, so that leaves a big question mark in the calculations you're trying to do.

Given that your muzzle velocity is going to conservatively probably fall in the 2700 to 2800 fps range, I would try to sight in about 2.5 inches high at 100 yds. That should give you a zero around 230 yds, and at 300 you'll be 5 - 6 inches below point of aim. The bullet will never get more than about 2.8 inches above point of aim, so, unless you miss a shot you won't shoot over an antelope, and you won't really need to mess with holding up much until you get close to 300 yds.... Which would probably be my self imposed maximum if I were you.