642 Club Part Deux

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Hey Nematocyst

I bought the 2" 317. I also bought a second set of grips that I have on my 642 and 640. I switch the grips and practice with the 317 . My 317 came OTB with a good trigger, I have heard that this is not usual, but mine did. As I just built a new garage (tornado took the other one!) I am putting in an indoor range (15') for shooting with CCI CBs. Yeah I know they will be noisy, but I"m mostly after limited penetration. I have purchased a Champion bullet trap and will back it up with 4'X4' sheets of 3/4" plywood. I have to test fire the 317 into some wood tonight to see how thick I am going to have to get in the backstop. 317 will catch secondary duty as critter gun loaded with stingers when walking on the road around home.
 
911Boss - Welcome to the 642 Club, since you gave us such a good source for lasers, we'll grant you special member dispensation as a M&P 340CT owner ;)...

...I am putting in an indoor range...
Click to expand...

wjh2657 - You might also want to take a look at the .22LR Aguila Colibri primer fired ammo, quieter than CB's and less penetration. The plywood backstop sounds problematic, a few hits in the same place and it will be defeated. You should be able to find some 4'X4' scrap 1/4" - 3/8" steel plate at a pretty reasonable price. You might also need to address the lead particulate issue and any possible legal liabilities. This sounds like a good setup for wax rounds in an X42 as well.

The .22LR Aguila Colibri ammo is here:

http://ammunitiontogo.com/catalog1/...a-colibri-quiet-ammo&cName=22-long-rifle-ammo
 
You should be able to find some 4'X4' scrap 1/4" - 3/8" steel plate at a pretty reasonable price.
Click to expand...
WJH, I gotta agree w/ JT on this one.

Glad to hear of the 317 2" purchase,
but I'd overbuild that backstop like
there's no tomorrow, including steel plate.

Keep us posted on how it shoots.
 
p 100. #2482.

A no-lock x42?

You're a lucky person.

Unlike those living in NO.

(If you live there, get out now.)

Frogger, welcome to da' club.
_____________

Speech by fiVe coming soon ... ;)

smiley-green-bouncing.gif
 
"Permission to Come Aboard"

I'm in the process of reading EVERY post on both threads and humbly submit here to join the Club. I have owned around a Baker's Dozen J-frames since the late 60's and currently have six, including two 642's. I have fired thousands of rounds from the little beasties and used to compete with them in non-NRA sanctioned PPC events.

For the last several years, my personal defense carry guns have been:

Glock 19
Sam Andrews MacDaniel II IWB holster
147gr standard pressure JHP

S&W 642-1 no lock 2001 mfg.
Uncle Mike's #3 holster / Mika square bottom pocket holster
110 or 125gr standard pressure JHP

000057.gif


After much experimentation with guns, holsters, and loads, I have settled on this combo and what's best for ME, not anyone else.

The G19 is perhaps the subject for another post on another forum, so......

My 642-1 has proven itself over time to be extremely accurate for personal defense requirements. Hundreds of rounds have produced no malfunctions and of course reliability has been perfect. Thousands of practice presentations and dry firings have produced the typical S&W velvety smooth action. I have not tinkered with the gun's mechanics.

The finish shows honest character marks and I have found the original rubber boot grips to be functional. They do not "hang up" on clothing.

The UM holster has served well for three years. The bottom portion has folded over a bit beneath the barrel but the gun's outline is well broken up while in the pocket and the holster maintains proper gun orientation. I also have a Mika square bottom that sees considerable use depending on cut of the pocket.

My choice of standard pressure loads for both guns is an extremely personal one arrived at by extensive experimentation and experience.

I suffer from muscular dystrophy which has reduced my upper body, arm, and hand strength. I am no longer able to comfortably shoot heavy, sharp recoiling handguns, ergo the standard pressure loads.

I have found the lesser recoiling loads allow quicker and more accurate follow-up shots with the smaller guns. I practice with standard pressure loads so the recoil characteristics of my practice loads match those of my carry loads, a situation I feel makes for more realistic practice. I don't feel undergunned in any way by using the standard loads. I'm currently using Remington's 110gr SJHP, #R38S16, in the Smith.

The 642-1 usually serves as backup to the Glock but occasionally fills the primary role. On these occasions I usually carry another of my steel framed J-frames either in another OWB or shoulder holster. I use Airweight J-frames for pocket carry and steel guns otherwise. I have three of both styles.

In some ways, the 642-1 in the strong side pocket is "almost" the primary gun. I find the speed and surprise of presentation to be an extremely efficient procedure. The Glock, a more capable defensive tool, takes much longer and requires more "effort" to present from the IWB holster under an untucked shirt. This is a dilemma I constantly struggle with but have as yet not found a definitive solution.

I feel the 642-1 is the perfect gun for my situation, so much so that I just purchased one of the new run of no-lock models. This gun will just be held in reserve in the event that some tragedy befalls my beloved 2001 model.

But more important than the equipment I have chosen is my practice regime with both guns. I shoot weekly with every other week being timed, competitive, personal protection-type courses of fire at a local range. I alternate this with personal practice sessions where I concentrate on specific performance or equipment issues. I occasionally compete in GSSF or similar matches in an effort to stay "sharp" and also train with other like minded shooters.

This is what has been working for me. I feel confident in my equipment
and training/practice regime. Do your own research, experiment, practice and train. Find what works best for YOU!

Cheers,
dan :)
 
I am thinking over the garage range backdrop problem. Steel plate worries me as the subsonics have a nasty pattern of ricochet. I have already had a couple of close calls using subsonics and just solid wood. It isn't that subsonics ricochet more, it just that you are shooting at closer range and closer to ricichet. I would think that steel plate would lend itself to a real ricochet problem. I don't want to get too elaborate, that is why I bought bullet trap. Baffles , etc are just too elaborate and complicated for what I want to do. Any experience with this out there?
 
Wayne,

What a great idea! Hadn't thought of that.

This folding happened slowly over a period of three years so I didn't really notice until one day I looked and there it was.

With your permission, I'll shamelessly steal your idea. I think I have some small pieces of kydex around here somewhere.

Thanks.

Cheers,
dan :)
 
I'll put in another recommendation for Shooters Resources. I received my 405 grip this week with their lowest price shipping in only two days from across the country. I would buy from them again. They also throw in the Crimson Trace DVD and a certificate for free batteries for life from CT. I don't know if this comes standard from CT, but if not, it's an even better reason to shop there.

I put the laser on my 442 and sighted it in at the range today. I had a little bit of difficulties because I was moving the laser like a rear sight, so I was moving it backwards until I realized to move the dot to the shot.

I'm amazed at the difference in my accuracy with the laser. Previously, I had a very hard time holding a basketball size group at 20 feet, but with the laser I can put five shots into a little over an inch at 50 feet. I consider that a huge difference. Before I got the laser I thought the barrel might be bad because there are tool marks in the grooves near the forcing cone. The dot is now sighted in and when looking at the sights with the laser on, the laser dot is high and right but it hits the dot.
 
"Permission to Come Aboard"

I'm in the process of reading EVERY post on both threads and humbly submit here to join the Club.

<snip>

I have found the lesser recoiling loads allow quicker and more accurate follow-up shots with the smaller guns. I practice with standard pressure loads so the recoil characteristics of my practice loads match those of my carry loads, a situation I feel makes for more realistic practice. I don't feel undergunned in any way by using the standard loads. I'm currently using Remington's 110gr SJHP, #R38S16, in the Smith.
Click to expand...
Purple, welcome aboard.
Great to have you here.
Make yourself at home.

Your intro essay is well done and thorough.
Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.

Your endeavor to read all the posts will pay for itself.

I agree: there's nothing deficient about standard pressure rnds,
especially for those who practice regularly as you do.

A well placed .38 spl standard pressure rnd
will ruin a bg's day just as much as a poorly placed +p.

As we've often noted, the three most important factors
in deciding which gun, caliber, and ammo to use are
shot placement, shot placement & shot placement.
 
frogger42, Purple95 - Welcome to the 642 Club, We are happy to have you here with us.

Purple95 said:
Find what works best for YOU!
Click to expand...
...Indeed :cool:...

wjh2657 - It's all in the angle of the backstop, examine the construction of your bullet trap as a guideline. Presumably all :)neener:) of you rounds will be within the confines of the trap, for those that are not an angled plate with a single thin (1/4"?) wood/plastic sheet spaced an inch or so in front to act as a spall liner should prove adequate to reduce ricochets. Here is some info:

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?referrerid=6157&t=28680

Boomerang - Good to hear from you again...how's that sparker doing?

Nem said:
...there's nothing deficient about standard pressure...
Click to expand...

Agreed...especially Buff Bore standard pressure...
 
Maybe one of you guys and/or gals can help me out here.

My son and I are interested in shooting more than paper targets. We would like to practice a little moving self defense type shooting by using a "reactive target" at distances from 15-25 feet or so.

We were at gander mountain the other night and they had one which was heavy steel with a 3" and 5" plink and swing double spin target. The actual target seem to be around 3/8" thick high carbon steel. The steel frame was about the same thickness and seems stout enough for 38spl and 9mm.

Reading the back of the product, it stated a recommended safe shooting distance of 75 feet. Needless to say, that distance is a little more than I had in mind. Do you think that the company just wants to be on the safe side and states 75 feet (why not 100 to be even safer) for legal reasons?

If I was shooting a bb gun I could see the possiblity of a ricochet. I can't see that hollow point round would ricochet or bounce back or even a full metal jacket round.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
Johnan,

Shooting at metal targets can be dangerous. First and foremost, wear real shooting glasses, not cheap sunglasses!!

I used to train at an indoor range where members shot falling steel plates at 30ft and I observed instances where entire bullets would ricochet back to the firing line. Far more common would be the bounce back of bullet fragments. I have been hit with these fragments several times, once on my shooting glasses. I also witnessed a shooter struck by one of the fragments that penetrated and drew quite a lot of blood.

These experiences were with center fire handgun calibers of varying bullet configurations. I no longer shoot there.

We shoot metal targets at my range at a minimum distance of 45ft. There are no bullet configuration restrictions but of course eye protection is required. I have never witnessed a ricochet or bounce back at this distance nor heard scuttlebutt of same.

The Glock-sponsored GSSF matches have a falling plates course of fire set at 33ft. I have participated in many of these matches and never witnessed a ricochet or bounce back but remain a bit uncomfortable with the distance.

In the early 70's, as falling steel plate matches became the rage in my area of the world, I participated in many such competitions. The distances we used were no shorter than 45ft, and usually longer. I don't recall ever witnessing a ricochet or bounce back, but that was long ago.

Personally, I would NEVER shoot steel targets at the 15-25ft distances you propose. While I have never shot the commercially available targets you mention, my experiences with falling metal plates preclude shooting metal at such short distances.

While I agree with you in that punching holes in paper can become quite boring, IMO your proposed distances are far too short for safe shooting. While I still shoot GSSF matches at the 33ft range, I am much more comfortable with at least 45ft.

Stay safe,
dan :)
 
Now Get a Life! :neener:
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Doood, I've already got one that's more than I can handle.
And you want me to get another one?! :eek:

:D
________

I may have mentioned before that I work unbelievably long weeks.
(My last "real" day off was over a year ago.) I maintain some level of sanity
by taking frequent little breaks during the day to get my mind off work.

One of my favorite rest areas is THR, and of course,
I spend an inordinate amount of time in this club. :uhoh:
 
Unfaithful

I feel so dirty.

Nem and jt1 forgive me.

And my 442 is so new. (The 640 is on vacation to get a tan. Actually a matte black DiamondKote so the glare from the sun does not mess up my sight picture. So I bought another companion for my 642.)

I have signed up for James Yeager's full auto AK class, and it is a rifle/pistol class. Transitioning from a full auto AK with a 30 round mag to a snubby just ain't right; so after nearly a year of shooting only revolvers and taking Louis Awerbuck's class with the 640 (where I learned about the sun problem [Great class and great instructor::take it if you can]), I dragged my XD9 out from the back of the safe. {Diagram that sentence, boys and girls.}

I was annoyed to discover that I immediately shot better groups with the XD9, even at a modest 5-6 yards. At 35-40 yards, ... I don't want to talk about it.

Shooting 10 round strings, they were all at least touching with the Marlin 1894C in .357 with an XS ghost ring, they widened a bit and showed some paper between some of them with the XD, but some of the 442 shots were 2-4" apart. 158 gr +P SWCHP, so the problem is not ammo!

I clearly need to spend more time with the 442 and 642 :);):)

It is annoying that a pistol that is not pretty, does not feel that good in the hand and is not even American does its job better than my little American beauties that feel so good and snuggle so close.

I am not going back to bottom feeders, but I am taking Michael DeBethencourt's classes and working harder.
 
Congrats Nem,

and as for the 642 Club part Duex?

Were halfway to 5,000 posts and just about 2,500 away from Part III.

Total posts part 1 & 2:
7,519

Currently we have:
323 members in Part II
and a total membership between the two threads of:
849 members

Post Leaders are Part Duex:
User Name...............Posts
Nematocyst.............371
jt1.........................256
DAdams..................160
rdrancher.................59
glockman19..............56
fiVe........................52
doc540....................46
TBT........................39
jfh..........................38
jad0110...................37

And as always a great thanks to FiVe for starting it all on:
May 13th, 2005, 09:22 AM
"A day that will live in THR infamy."
 
JT, I appreciate that you remember me. I haven't posted here in a while.

As for the sparking, I haven't looked at it in a while, and if it isn't sparking anymore it could be because I took the 442 apart and messed with it a little. There's something in me that makes me have to take apart a perfectly good revolver to smooth it out, even the 442. So here's what I did.
I opened the cover and took a digital picture of the internals for where it was lubed and where the parts go. I sprayed it out with gun scrubber and dry fired it a bunch and then took it apart and polished the pieces that had wear marks on a pizza box with white jewelers rouge. Cleaned it, and put it back together with some new grease. I don't remember if I used Moly Slide or TW25B grease, but it's a bit smoother. Not amazingly smoother, but when I did this with my New Vaquero, it slicked it up really well.

I just checked. No more sparking.
 
glockman19

Thanks for the statistical update. Some interesting data.

The ubiquitious nature of snub nosed revolvers have made them a long term (decades) solution to a personal defense problem. Whether you are new to handguns, seeking something for home defense (to get you to your 12 or AR), seeking a personal carry concealable solution, or looking for a back up to the bottom puker ;) a modern day snub balances round count, weight, size, and reasonable caliber in reliable package. Add a Mika holster, Speedstrips, CT 405, BB or SGDFSB, one in each color and what more could a (wo)man ask for.

And to think ....If it weren't for this Forum I may not have discovered the practical elegance of the S&W snub nose J Frame Centennial.

Thanks to THR, fiVe and all those contributors who take this thread technically and safety serious yet sprinkle it with enough levity to make it such a joy to read and participate in.
 
Well, shucks, I'll take post #2500

Glockman: Thanks for the stats.

Nem: Heartfelt congrats on your 8,000th.


All: Thanks for making this a great (friendly, informative, special, etc.) place!

Revolvers rule!

Peace,
fiVe

P.S. Some wind and 3 inches of rain, and we are relatively unscathed by Gustav. I'm very thankful.
 
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