642 Club Part Deux
- Thread starter fiVe
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arflattop
Member
Pocket Holster
I received a pocket holster from RKBA Holsters (he posts on this forum) for my 642. The fit is great -- holds the pistol, but not so snug you can't draw it when you wish. The leather is smooth on the inside and rough on the exterior. It keeps its shape, so re-holstering is not problem. Pics included -- thought you'd like to see a comparison of this holster/handgun to my SP-101 in a black Ted Blocker holster. I have a Mika on order -- be interesting to see how it compares to the RKBA.
I received a pocket holster from RKBA Holsters (he posts on this forum) for my 642. The fit is great -- holds the pistol, but not so snug you can't draw it when you wish. The leather is smooth on the inside and rough on the exterior. It keeps its shape, so re-holstering is not problem. Pics included -- thought you'd like to see a comparison of this holster/handgun to my SP-101 in a black Ted Blocker holster. I have a Mika on order -- be interesting to see how it compares to the RKBA.
DAdams
Member
All In
JT1 says.....
jt1...I'm all in
Not mine but if I live long enough who knows.
JT1 says.....
jt1...I'm all in
Not mine but if I live long enough who knows.
jad0110
Member
Actually, the stock Uncle Mikes aren't tacky at all. Maybe not as slick as wood, but I've never had a problem drawing from the pocket. I've replaced the grips on all my revolvers with wood except for my 642. They just work so well for me. In fact, I tried a set of LG-405 CTs the other day. They did feel pretty good, but I guess I've developed a muscle memory for the stock boot grips, so the CTs just didn't feel quite right. I'm not sure that I'll ever change the stock grips. My preference on grips are shared by Stephen Camp ... this is a great read: http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Getting a Grip on J Frames.htm
Nem,
Cheap solution: hobby paint or nail polish. Gold is my preference.
Yes, it does has to be a reapplied now and then, maybe once every couple of months. A toothpick works perfectly. Just enough to paint the highest "notch". You wouldn't thing such a tiny dab of gold would make such a difference. And it doesn't really when you are just casually looking at it. But at the range, it is noticeable. Gold works well in all lighting conditions and with all sorts of different targets/backgrounds. Very versatile, the great Ed McGivern (and Jerry Miculek too) are on the record for preferring a gold bead front sight to all others. This may not be a gold bead, but it works for what it is.
The gold isn't obtrusive, but it stands out just enough that I can clearly see the front blade go straight up and right back down into position under recoil. Visible without being distracting. I like it, YMMV of course.
Again, its cheap so if you don't like one color, try another
.
So while I'm on my ten day wait on my new 642, I went ahead and ordered all of associated gear. A bit frustrating in a way, I got the Smith off the shelf at a standard retail $429, the bag of toys I ordered to go with ended up costing about the same once you figure in shipping.
CT 405's - $249
2 boxes of SGD-JHP-SB $44
Desantis Superfly $35
Concealment T-shirt from Magills, $70
Good thing I already have my dies for .38 special or the gun would have been the lesser purchase in the whole shtick. O well, it's only money right?
CT 405's - $249
2 boxes of SGD-JHP-SB $44
Desantis Superfly $35
Concealment T-shirt from Magills, $70
Good thing I already have my dies for .38 special or the gun would have been the lesser purchase in the whole shtick. O well, it's only money right?
AStone
Member
Jad, that tip is worth its weight in gold.
I'll try it.
I'll try it.
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AStone
Member
My oh my.
riceboy72
Member
Just gave it a bath ...
After two trips to the range in the last week, it was finally time to scrub down my 642. Read with fervor the posts advising not to use ammonia based cleaning components on my gun, so I steered clear from them and wound up buying Hoppe's Elite.
Used the Elite on my bore and the cylinders and they came out pretty clean. I used Break Free on a nylon brush for the area under the cylinder and around the barrel, and on the face where the firing pin sits (sorry, don't know the technical name). No matter how hard I scrubbed, I just can't get it clean to what I'd like to see. I understand the front of the cylinders will be stained from the carbon, but is there anything else I can do to make this thing look any better? And I went with what was recommended on this forum (tried using the Search feature, but I got fed up with it and just went back to going page by page here), so I hope I'm doing the 642 right and that I'm not going to kill the finish. Is the jury out on Elite and the finish of the gun? If I can use it to clean the whole thing, then I'm all for that.
Lastly, after skimming all the posts, I haven't really figured out where this thing needs to be lubed. Any help would be recommended.
Thanks again for all your help. I learn more every time I log in about this little guy. Glad I made the purchase.
After two trips to the range in the last week, it was finally time to scrub down my 642. Read with fervor the posts advising not to use ammonia based cleaning components on my gun, so I steered clear from them and wound up buying Hoppe's Elite.
Used the Elite on my bore and the cylinders and they came out pretty clean. I used Break Free on a nylon brush for the area under the cylinder and around the barrel, and on the face where the firing pin sits (sorry, don't know the technical name). No matter how hard I scrubbed, I just can't get it clean to what I'd like to see. I understand the front of the cylinders will be stained from the carbon, but is there anything else I can do to make this thing look any better? And I went with what was recommended on this forum (tried using the Search feature, but I got fed up with it and just went back to going page by page here), so I hope I'm doing the 642 right and that I'm not going to kill the finish. Is the jury out on Elite and the finish of the gun? If I can use it to clean the whole thing, then I'm all for that.
Lastly, after skimming all the posts, I haven't really figured out where this thing needs to be lubed. Any help would be recommended.
Thanks again for all your help. I learn more every time I log in about this little guy. Glad I made the purchase.
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AStone
Member
JT, scroll back up to DA's post 1031
with the image of that fine revolver collection.
See those grips on that middle revolver (a 3" 686, me thinks),
the ones with those vertical dark wavy lines?
Imagine a set of those grips on that golden gun.
with the image of that fine revolver collection.
See those grips on that middle revolver (a 3" 686, me thinks),
the ones with those vertical dark wavy lines?
Imagine a set of those grips on that golden gun.
tmorales
Member
Wtb 642
Does anyone know where I can purchase a 642? I have the 442 and a 638 right now and I would like to add a 642. I do not mind if it is out of state as long as it is at a good price. Thank you ahead of time for any replys that will help.
Does anyone know where I can purchase a 642? I have the 442 and a 638 right now and I would like to add a 642. I do not mind if it is out of state as long as it is at a good price. Thank you ahead of time for any replys that will help.
RTFM
member
What?
You can't fiind any 642's - anywhere?
You can't fiind any 642's - anywhere?
DelawareDon
Member
riceboy 72....
I'm with you. It would be incredibly helpful to me, being a new 642 owner, if someone could provide me/us with a step-by-step cleaning procedure, including what materials and techniques are used. Can anyone help us out?
I'm with you. It would be incredibly helpful to me, being a new 642 owner, if someone could provide me/us with a step-by-step cleaning procedure, including what materials and techniques are used. Can anyone help us out?
DAdams
Member
Racoon Eyes
I'm not that fussy anymore regarding "racoon eyes" on my 642. Once in a while I go after them with a vengance, If I have the extra time.
Someone refresh my memory. Kleen Bore I belive makes an impregnated cloth called Lead Away. They work well above the forcing cone and on the front of the cylinder. I don't think they are to be used on blued products.
That's why I like my X4X. Black coating, can't see the crud, don't bother chasing it.
Now my stainles 686, that's a different story.
jt1---------I fold.
I'm not that fussy anymore regarding "racoon eyes" on my 642. Once in a while I go after them with a vengance, If I have the extra time.
Someone refresh my memory. Kleen Bore I belive makes an impregnated cloth called Lead Away. They work well above the forcing cone and on the front of the cylinder. I don't think they are to be used on blued products.
That's why I like my X4X. Black coating, can't see the crud, don't bother chasing it.
Now my stainles 686, that's a different story.
jt1---------I fold.
DA - Let's just call it a "draw"DA said:
Nem - That would be sweet!
tmorales - Welcome to the 642 Club². You can't find one locally? I would be hesitant to buy one sight unseen. Look around some more.
Cleaning - The cylinder and barrel on the 642 are stainless with no coating and can be cleaned with any regular products. The aluminum frame is the clear coated part that you need to be careful with (the 442 has an anodized frame and blued cylinder/barrel with no clearcoat). I use CLP, a nylon brush and a bore snake and that is usually good enough. You can remove the cylinder now and again and soak the face awhile and it cleans right up.
We need to start chipping away at this project, originally put forth by Glockman/DA/Nem and endorsed by fiVe. Feel free to pick your subject and submit for comment and inclusion in the 642 Club Big BoK
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Funny Musings
AStone
Member
JT, good nudge on the project. Feels like good timing. There's a lot of good "energy" in da' house right now. Let's tap that.
Four questions come to mind so far:
This x42-pedia should be constructed in a way that reflects your table of contents above
(which is very logical, organizational, and has a very good feel to it: concise and descriptive).
I suggest that we clarify your suggestion a bit more, so we're all clear on the procedure.JT said:
Four questions come to mind so far:
- Are there any (suggested or required) criteria about length, style, etc?
- To whom do we submit comments? Post them here for copy/paste to the BoK, via PM to FiVe, or ... ?
- I'm open to a revision of this point; mainly posting this as a question to see if I understand "subject". I define "subject" as one subset of your list above (e.g., standard grips, laser grips, working grips are each subjects), and category as the name of a group of subjects (e.g., grips is a category).
- Do you (we) have in mind setting up a set of single posts on BoK, say one per subject or one per category, or something else?
This x42-pedia should be constructed in a way that reflects your table of contents above
(which is very logical, organizational, and has a very good feel to it: concise and descriptive).
jad0110
Member
jt1,
That gold plated S&W Model 10 / 64 (can't tell which, obviously) is strangely pimp-tastic and classy at the same time . Pleasingly disturbing.
Lead away cloths work great. Just don't rub it on the aluminum frame, or use it on blued and nickel finishes.
jad's cleaning tools and techniques
I clean my 642 after each range session or 6 weeks, whichever comes first . As a pocket gun, it does get rather crudded up from carry all the time.
I've been using Hoppes #9 for years and have only regular wear and tear on my finish. Foaming bore solvents are very harsh, so definitely stay away from those. I only use that stuff on stainless guns.
For in between cleanings, I just use a boresnake with a little hoppes #9 to get the pocket lint out of it. I then spray the outside with hoppes elite and wipe off any crud with a paper towel. I do put just a very, very thin amount of cleaning oil in the barrel and chambers to prevent corrosion, since this gun is carried a lot. I also wipe the outside with a silicone impregnated cloth.
For post range fun cleanings, I usually start by spraying the bore and chambers with Breakfree CLP and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. Great stuff. When I'm ready to start cleaning, I always remove the cylinder. Makes cleaning both the cylinder and gun MUCH easier. As long as you have the proper gunsmith screwdriver, all you have to do is remove the forward most sideplate screw, swing open the cylinder, and hold the cylinder in place while sliding the crane/yolk arm thingie out the front. That's it. And of course the crane arm itself will need some cleaning. It actually gets surprisingly filthy.
For the chambers (and only the chambers), I like to use a .40 cal bore brush. Really gets a lot of crap out that the 38/357 brush just doesn't get. Works especially well on guns chambered for 357 Magnum. I follow up with patches until it's clean. Of course, remember to clean under the ejector star. As for the cylinder face, I scrub it good with a hoppes #9 soaked stainless steel brush to get the heavy stuff off. Then I finish it with the lead away cloth.
Clean the barrel as anyone else would. I prefer using Hoppes #9. Only use a nylon brush on the aluminum frame. Stainless steel brushes will wreck the finish. When I finish cleaning the frame, I reinstall the cylinder. Reassembly is basically the reverse. Hold the cylinder about where it would be located when it is open, then slide the crane assembly onto the gun and cylinder.
I finish as described above: wipe it down with hoppes elite to remove any lingering crap, then finish with a silcone cloth.
About removing/installing the cylinder: The most important point to remember (in addition to using the proper gunsmith screwdriver) is to hold the cylinder in the open position, in place, while drawing the crane arm out from the gun. If you try to take the entire assembly out at once (cylinder and all) you are almost guaranteed to scratch the cylinder on the frame.
That gold plated S&W Model 10 / 64 (can't tell which, obviously) is strangely pimp-tastic and classy at the same time
. Pleasingly disturbing.Lead away cloths work great. Just don't rub it on the aluminum frame, or use it on blued and nickel finishes.
jad's cleaning tools and techniques
I clean my 642 after each range session or 6 weeks, whichever comes first
. As a pocket gun, it does get rather crudded up from carry all the time.I've been using Hoppes #9 for years and have only regular wear and tear on my finish. Foaming bore solvents are very harsh, so definitely stay away from those. I only use that stuff on stainless guns.
For in between cleanings, I just use a boresnake with a little hoppes #9 to get the pocket lint out of it. I then spray the outside with hoppes elite and wipe off any crud with a paper towel. I do put just a very, very thin amount of cleaning oil in the barrel and chambers to prevent corrosion, since this gun is carried a lot. I also wipe the outside with a silicone impregnated cloth.
For post range fun cleanings, I usually start by spraying the bore and chambers with Breakfree CLP and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. Great stuff. When I'm ready to start cleaning, I always remove the cylinder. Makes cleaning both the cylinder and gun MUCH easier. As long as you have the proper gunsmith screwdriver, all you have to do is remove the forward most sideplate screw, swing open the cylinder, and hold the cylinder in place while sliding the crane/yolk arm thingie out the front. That's it. And of course the crane arm itself will need some cleaning. It actually gets surprisingly filthy.
For the chambers (and only the chambers), I like to use a .40 cal bore brush. Really gets a lot of crap out that the 38/357 brush just doesn't get. Works especially well on guns chambered for 357 Magnum. I follow up with patches until it's clean. Of course, remember to clean under the ejector star. As for the cylinder face, I scrub it good with a hoppes #9 soaked stainless steel brush to get the heavy stuff off. Then I finish it with the lead away cloth.
Clean the barrel as anyone else would. I prefer using Hoppes #9. Only use a nylon brush on the aluminum frame. Stainless steel brushes will wreck the finish. When I finish cleaning the frame, I reinstall the cylinder. Reassembly is basically the reverse. Hold the cylinder about where it would be located when it is open, then slide the crane assembly onto the gun and cylinder.
I finish as described above: wipe it down with hoppes elite to remove any lingering crap, then finish with a silcone cloth.
About removing/installing the cylinder: The most important point to remember (in addition to using the proper gunsmith screwdriver) is to hold the cylinder in the open position, in place, while drawing the crane arm out from the gun. If you try to take the entire assembly out at once (cylinder and all) you are almost guaranteed to scratch the cylinder on the frame.
jad0110
Member
jad's lubing techniques
I already covered lubing the barrel and chambers. I put two drops on a patch, then run it through a couple of times. Then I run a dry patch through once to remove any heavy deposits. Keeps rust/corrision at bay.
I like to put a dab of oil on the front portion of the ejector rod, wiping away any excess with a patch. I then take the patch an wipe a thin residue on the back half (where the shell extractor is attached). Keep oil here to a minimum, as too much can attract unburnt powder and other junk, which could cause the cylinder to jam when firing.
I usually also put a single drop on the firing pin opening and wipe it all around the recoil plate (including the hand), and down to the cylinder stop. That's it for the oiling.
Since I remove the cylinder and crane assembly each time, I use a gun grease on the cylinder and yolk barrel, as it should last longer. Works for me.
As a side note, I like to use gun grease on the slide of my 1911 in place of oil.
I already covered lubing the barrel and chambers. I put two drops on a patch, then run it through a couple of times. Then I run a dry patch through once to remove any heavy deposits. Keeps rust/corrision at bay.
I like to put a dab of oil on the front portion of the ejector rod, wiping away any excess with a patch. I then take the patch an wipe a thin residue on the back half (where the shell extractor is attached). Keep oil here to a minimum, as too much can attract unburnt powder and other junk, which could cause the cylinder to jam when firing.
I usually also put a single drop on the firing pin opening and wipe it all around the recoil plate (including the hand), and down to the cylinder stop. That's it for the oiling.
Since I remove the cylinder and crane assembly each time, I use a gun grease on the cylinder and yolk barrel, as it should last longer. Works for me.
As a side note, I like to use gun grease on the slide of my 1911 in place of oil.
duallydave
Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2008
- Messages
- 31
How I got here
Hi all,
When I was younger, the world was safer, and being a big guy, I didn't feel too threatened when I walked around town. I've owned a 30-30 and a shotgun, but no handguns. As I got older, the world got crazier. I started thinking about getting some kind of gun for self-defense, my first thought was something like a Glock, if the cops carried them, that must be the way to go, right? As I started looking and asking questions, I saw other guns, thought about other semi-auto pistols like an XD or M&P.
Then I started thinking, how I am I going to carry this gun around? I looked at holsters, all of the IWB OWB SOB options - these seemed great for an undercover cop, but I rarely even wear a belt. I saw a video somewhere about pocket carry, that semi-auto was not good for that, that hammers got in the way, etc. This seemed to make a lot of sense to me, so I started thinking about revolvers, about size and weight, and read some things like http://www.snubnose.info/docs/m642.htm - and ended up here.
After reading through a lot of these posts, I'm sold. As soon as my CCW license gets here, I will be buying one of these puppies. I'll probably still get an XD and OWB for when out in the back country, but for self-defense I'm convinced that this is the way - I have seen the light! Thanks for all of your informative posts, I can hardly wait!
Gunless in Seattle.
Hi all,
When I was younger, the world was safer, and being a big guy, I didn't feel too threatened when I walked around town. I've owned a 30-30 and a shotgun, but no handguns. As I got older, the world got crazier. I started thinking about getting some kind of gun for self-defense, my first thought was something like a Glock, if the cops carried them, that must be the way to go, right? As I started looking and asking questions, I saw other guns, thought about other semi-auto pistols like an XD or M&P.
Then I started thinking, how I am I going to carry this gun around? I looked at holsters, all of the IWB OWB SOB options - these seemed great for an undercover cop, but I rarely even wear a belt. I saw a video somewhere about pocket carry, that semi-auto was not good for that, that hammers got in the way, etc. This seemed to make a lot of sense to me, so I started thinking about revolvers, about size and weight, and read some things like http://www.snubnose.info/docs/m642.htm - and ended up here.
After reading through a lot of these posts, I'm sold. As soon as my CCW license gets here, I will be buying one of these puppies. I'll probably still get an XD and OWB for when out in the back country, but for self-defense I'm convinced that this is the way - I have seen the light! Thanks for all of your informative posts, I can hardly wait!
Gunless in Seattle.
riceboy72
Member
Thank you, Jad!
You are the man. I searched until I couldn't see straight anymore and got frustrated. I can clean semi-autos 'til the cows come home, but I'm pretty new to revolvers and really didn't want to mess up the finish of this lil' bugger. I have used a .40 bore brush to clean the cylinders in the past and had good luck with it. Was just worried that I was missing something.
Onward to the lube job I go.
You are the man. I searched until I couldn't see straight anymore and got frustrated. I can clean semi-autos 'til the cows come home, but I'm pretty new to revolvers and really didn't want to mess up the finish of this lil' bugger. I have used a .40 bore brush to clean the cylinders in the past and had good luck with it. Was just worried that I was missing something.
Onward to the lube job I go.
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