642 - Light Firing Pin Strikes

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Lord Bodak

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I took my 642 out to the range for the first time today. It's suffering from occasional (~1 per cylinder, although one cylinder had 3 out of 5 not fire) light strikes of the firing pin. The primer has a small nick in it but nothing more. I guess it needs to go back to S&W, but I was curious if anyone else has any ideas or suggestions first.
 
I'm using Georgia Arms 158gr LSWC. I've put about 300 of them through my GP-100 and my 1894 lever gun without a single misfire, and my dad has been through 1000 in his 686 with no problems either. But that is a possibility.
 
Hmmm. Is your 642 new? Did you have trouble with any other ammo or did you only try the GA ammo?

It's quite possible that there could be a problem with the gun. Of course if it's new it'll be warranty if nobody has monkey'd with it.
 
If this is a brand new gun send it back, something is dragging inside and it isn't your responsibility to find out what it is. Smith's warranty station gets pretty high marks from nearly all who use it, I would recommend you use it.
 
Before I'd entrust a firearm to the carriers, I'd remove the stocks and verify the main spring strain screw is turned all the way in. If tension is reduced on the main spring, light strikes become almost inevitable.

If that doesn't solve the problem, call Smith & Wesson.
 
The J-frame guns don't have a strain screw, they use a coil mainspring. If the gun was bought used, a previous owner may have monkeyed with said mainspring - your local gunsmith ought to have a factory replacement that can be plugged in in short order. If you're mechanically inclined, you can also order a replacement from Wolff or Wilson Combat, either directly or through Brownells, Midway, etc. and DIY.

If the gun was bought new, try taking the grips off and douching out the insides with GunScrubber - there might be excessive/old oil or grease inside, or possibly accumulated fouling, metal chips or a dust-bunny inside the mechanism. LIGHTLY re-oil(2-3 drops of lube, max) and test-fire. If it still fails to fire with factory ammo(try Federal, good QC and sensitive primers), it's warranty time.
 
Kor,

If he uses Gunscrubber on that gun, it will remove the finish post-haste. Use something more mild.

Greg
 
It's a new gun. I have not had the grips off it, so I'll take them off and see what it looks like under there.

The GA was the only ammo I had on hand.
 
The MS may 'look' okay but someone could have replaced it with a lighter one. Did you say this is a brand new gun or not? Could a previous owner have replaced or cut the spring? If you can deal with the delay, send it to S&W. If not, like me, order a factory spring and replace it. I'd try that before removing the side plate.

Greg
 
I presume this is a new gun.

If the problem isn't being caused by the particular brand of ammunition, I would suspect that the hammer boss in the sideplate is pressing on the side of the hammer hard enough to bind it up. Rather then fool with it, I would return it to S&W and have them correct it, and address any other problems they might find at the same time.

New revolvers should be "right" from git-go ... particularly snubbies that are presumed to be weapons. Go back to the company and insist they make it right. All we can do here is speculate with a minimum of evidence to go on. I believe that S&W will pay for the shipping costs both ways, repair it, and get it back to you quickly. Call their customer service department and see what they say.
 
S&W will pay for the shipping costs both ways, repair it, and get it back to you quickly. Call their customer service department and see what they say

S&W will do precisely what Old Fuff says. Their customer service is the best in the industry today, hands down. Call them Tuesday morning: 800-331-0852, IIRC.
 
I'll keep everybody posted. I'll be calling S&W Tuesday morning. It is a brand new gun, I've had it a couple weeks but yesterday was the first time I fired it.
 
I had the very same problem with a 642 I purchased last year. I sent it back to S&W and told them that I thought the firing pin was too short, they countered by saying I should stay away from Remington ammunition as it was noted for it's hard primers. I told the rep that the gun should fire all types of .38 special ammunition, no matter what the manufacturor, and requested S&W to inspect and repair my revolver. I got the gun back in about 2 weeks but all they did was adjust the cylinder end shake. I called S&W again and asked about the firing pin but they said that it was within SAAMI specs and wouldn't replace it. I took the gun to the range the same day and the first 3 rounds failed to fire due to light primer strikes! I was so mad I couln't see straight. I eventually calmed down and called S&W and arranged to have the gun sent back a second time emphasizing they pay close attention to the firing pin protrusion. I got the gun back a few weeks later and saw that S&W adjusted the yoke and "end-gauge". I took the gun to the range again and put 200 rounds of various kinds of ammo through it (including the dreaded Remington) without a FTF. I still think the firing pin is still too short and primer indents too light but the gun seems to work.
 
CJinFL, that's scary. This is a carry gun for me and if it's not reliable it's going to keep going back to S&W until it is. There's no excuse for it to have problems with any commercial ammunition.
 
I concur! I'd request S&W to replace your firing pin with a SAAMI spec firing pin that was on the big, fat and long side of their SAAMI firing pin size spectrum. These S&W pocket revolvers need to be, above all else, deadly reliable. Let us know what Smith & Wesson does for you and your gun.
 
No news yet, with the busy short workweek I didn't get a chance to call S&W. I did shoot their Customer Service an e-mail and received no response... disappointing, but all too common these days. I'll call them in the next day or two.
 
The short workweek may have put them behind too. If you don't get an answer by Monday, do give them a call.
 
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