light strikes

[iyn]

I was shooting my s&w 625 in both single and double action with Winchester white box 230 gr. hardball and I've been getting light strikes. I fired those light strike rounds again a second time and it does fire. out out of 300 rounds only 2 rounds were duds after 3-4 times of re-firing. My s&w 625 has a master action job done by the performance center 2 years ago and it's the newer model with the internal firing pin rather than the hammer firing pin.

Is it my gun or is Winchester primers hard or I'm I doing something else wrong?

 

[jad0110]

Well, the first and easiest thing to do is check to make sure the strain screw at the bottom of the grip frame is nice and tight.

 

[greyling22]

with an action job I would assume they lightened springs. lighter springs = lighter hammer strikes. Federal is known to have softer primers that detonate easier.

 

[Matt Almeda]

Hi,
Most likely the strain screw has backed out.

 

[Waywatcher]

I'm pretty sure the frame mounted firing pin means no strain screw.

How are your moonclips? Are they old? Are they bent? Who made them? You are using the clips right?

Could be a headspace issue, 625s are renowned for headspace issues because of the clips. Usually factory springs are heavy enough to overcome any problems, but when they get lightened, the problem can show up.

Could try some 45 Auto Rim.

 

[Steve C]

My s&w 625 has a master action job done by the performance center 2 years ago and it's the newer model with the internal firing pin rather than the hammer firing pin.

Light strikes with an action job for target shooting and action games where the trigger and DA pull is lightened will often have difficulty in setting off primers other than Federals wich are easier to light off. For a target shooter and reloader this isn't a problem to use Federal brand primers.

Guns that are intended to be used for self defense are best kept to the factory spring tensions. The newer frame mounted hammer guns still have a strain screw but unlike the older S&W pistols the strain screws length hasn't been set at the factory for optimal trigger pull and ignition reliability. If screwed completely in, it can be screwed in much further than needed. A change in production that probably saved a few minutes in manufacturing and set up time.

I would try adjusting your strain screw in perhaps a 1/4 turn, 90 degrees. Retest at the range and tighten further if needed but you are getting pretty reliable ignition set as is to a small increase should do the trick.

Below is a picture of the strain screw location on my 457 Mountain pistol that has the frame mounted firing pin BTW.

 

[iyn]

I had light primer strikes on both the factory and Wilson moon clips, the silver ones. They are fairly new. I had the moon clips & gun for 2 years. And shot less than a 1000 rounds. Are wilson combat moon clips "good" or are there better ones. I live a mile from the ocean so I use the plated ones to minimize rust.

 

[GP100man]

Give S&W a call ,I believe they recommend federal primers after the JM treatment.

I put a .008" longer FP in mine to help the headspace problem with the moonclips .

The 2 that failed all together could be that the strike before cracked the mix & none was present between the cup & anvil on the second strike.

 

[BCRider]

If you've shot that ammo before and this is a new development it is likely either the strain screw has backed out or the lube in the action is gumming up with age and dust since it was a couple of years back that you had the work done. Thick or gummy oil around the hammer can slow it down just enough that you loose the snap that is needed to drive the firing pin correctly.

It likely isn't a bad idea at this point to flush the action out with a degreasing solvent such as brake cleaner and then flush it with a light gun oil and then blast out the excess using compressed air. Another nice way to add just a very light film of lube that won't drag on stuff is to mix up a brew of 6 to 8 drops of gun oil in an ounce of something like mineral spirits (AKA low odour paint thinner). Use that in a little squirt bottle to flush the action from up through the mainspring and down through the trigger slot and cylinder stop slots. Shake out the excess. What remains will evaporate after a few hours to leave a light film of gun oil over the entire action area.

 

[Drail]

Action work + Federal primers = 100% ignition. If you don't want to shoot Federal only primers then the action weight is going to have to go back up. Don't take my word for it, ask anyone who shoots competition revolvers. Another big factors with lightened actions is the primers need to be seated all the way in the bottom of the pocket. If the hammer/firing pin has to seat it AND ignite it won't be reliable.