I have two 686 plus 4" Smith & Wesson revolvers that I shoot very well. Love those guns. I wanted a more concealable gun, so I bought a 686 plus with the 2-1/2" barrel. Identical gun, except the barrel. Can't shoot it anywhere near as well as the 4". Past 7 yards is all over the place. Can easily stay on the target two to three times that distance with either 4". So far I have put about 1000 rounds through it with no inprovement. Bought some boot grips for it to make it more concealable, but switched back to the factory Hogue, thinking that might make a difference. It didn't. Also replaced the springs with reduced tension Wolf to lighten the heavy trigger pull. Didn't seem to help accuracy. Does anyone else have a 686 2-1/2" that they have a problem shooting? Since I can shoot a fairly good group at 21 feet, shouldn't it shoot the same at 50?
686 2.5". Is it me or the gun ?
- Thread starter MR.G
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BENCH TEST
First, clean the absolute snot out of the bore. Then clean again.
We're talking squeaky clean.
Might be a sight radius issue; try real deliberate benching. Try 140g XTP's and 158g Federal JHP's.
Shoot carefully, chanting "sight alignment trigger control". 'Kiss' the trigger.
First, clean the absolute snot out of the bore. Then clean again.
We're talking squeaky clean.
Might be a sight radius issue; try real deliberate benching. Try 140g XTP's and 158g Federal JHP's.
Shoot carefully, chanting "sight alignment trigger control". 'Kiss' the trigger.
Walosi
Member
21 FEET? 50 FEET? Using a good rest, seated at a bench, firing in SA mode, my 2 1/2" 686 will put 158 gr. ammo in a paper plate at 50 YARDS for as long as I can hold it up. This isn't full potential, either. Steadier hands than mine, coupled with a "non-bifocular optical system" can group tighter and farther downrange. The sight radius requires a great deal more focus and concentration than a 4", and most of your problem may be in that area. Back up, take a deep breath and shoot SA, concentrating sights and trigger control, one shot at a time, two hands, from a solid rest. This sets a "benchmark" for what you and the gun can do under optimum conditions. When you are confident with that, stand up and shoot it. You will prove to yourself where improvements are needed.
10-Ring
Member
It took me a while to learn how to shoot my 60. For a while, my targets looked like I was shooting a shotgun.
Patience & practice...no shortcut
Patience & practice...no shortcut
Archie
Member
Could be a gun problem.....
Examine the SHAPE of the group you fire.
Is the group round, oval, strung horizontal or strung vertical?
Check the sights. Are they snug, or do they rattle about some. Check the front, too.
After a good cleaning, measure the mouths (fronts) of the chambers. They should measure about .001" LARGER than the bore groove diameter. If the mouths are too tight, the bullet isn't contacting the bore correctly.
When shooting, is the cylinder locking up prior to discharge? Having the cylinder just out of alignment will cause the gun to jump to one side and will screw up groups. If only one or two chambers don't align right, it's very frustrating.
Last... find someone who'se ability you respect and have that person test fire the thing. If he shoots it real well, it's you. If it's as bad for him as it is for you, it's the gun.
Examine the SHAPE of the group you fire.
Is the group round, oval, strung horizontal or strung vertical?
Check the sights. Are they snug, or do they rattle about some. Check the front, too.
After a good cleaning, measure the mouths (fronts) of the chambers. They should measure about .001" LARGER than the bore groove diameter. If the mouths are too tight, the bullet isn't contacting the bore correctly.
When shooting, is the cylinder locking up prior to discharge? Having the cylinder just out of alignment will cause the gun to jump to one side and will screw up groups. If only one or two chambers don't align right, it's very frustrating.
Last... find someone who'se ability you respect and have that person test fire the thing. If he shoots it real well, it's you. If it's as bad for him as it is for you, it's the gun.
Mark IV Series 80
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2002
- Messages
- 207
I put a set of Lasergrips on my S&W Model 638..... IMO, these Lasergrips are an excellent training tool...... you can see your point-of-aim move around while you are pulling the trigger.
With some practice, I was able to minimize the movement of the point-of-aim designated by the laser beam..... and my groups are much improved!
With some practice, I was able to minimize the movement of the point-of-aim designated by the laser beam..... and my groups are much improved!
As mentioned, the sight radius is a big deal, magnifying the effect of any mis-alignment.
Also, you might ry a few diffferent loads. In my experience the shorter barreled revolvers tend to be more load sensitive. Two of the three 6" 686's I've had over the years would shoot any load well, and without very much change in POI.
My current 686, a 4", does well with most, but not all, loads. I've noticed the same thing with Security Sixes.
Also, you might ry a few diffferent loads. In my experience the shorter barreled revolvers tend to be more load sensitive. Two of the three 6" 686's I've had over the years would shoot any load well, and without very much change in POI.
My current 686, a 4", does well with most, but not all, loads. I've noticed the same thing with Security Sixes.
I have owned a 2.5" 686 as well as a 2.5" 66 and found both to be accurate revolvers. I will admit that I did not buy the shorter barreled guns until I was fairly proficient with the longer barrels.
I used the Model 66 for indoor pistol league where we had to shoot with a one-hand hold at 50 ft. I was eventually beat out by a shooter with a Model 52 Target pistol. But the little 66 allowed to me to do well and its accuracy surprised most shooters. One of the "old timers" at the club told me how he used an old Model 15 Smith snubnose to win a few pistol leagues in the past.
As mentioned above the sight alingment on the snubs is very critical due to the short sight radius.
I used the Model 66 for indoor pistol league where we had to shoot with a one-hand hold at 50 ft. I was eventually beat out by a shooter with a Model 52 Target pistol. But the little 66 allowed to me to do well and its accuracy surprised most shooters. One of the "old timers" at the club told me how he used an old Model 15 Smith snubnose to win a few pistol leagues in the past.
As mentioned above the sight alingment on the snubs is very critical due to the short sight radius.
caz223
Member
The 686 snubs are blessed with the ability to hit the target at 25-50 yards just fine. It requires a little more attention to sight picture.
Clean and examine the bore with a bore light.
If it's clean, check, and double check the sights.
Check the shot pattern for vertical stringing.
The next time you're at the range, ask someone else to shoot it, noting their groups.
I've found that shorter barrels are more sensative to ammo they don't like.
My 2.5" 686 just loves full power magtech 357 magnum ammo, averaging 3" groups @ 25 yds. On a good day, maybe 2". That's about as good as I can shoot offhand consistantly.
Clean and examine the bore with a bore light.
If it's clean, check, and double check the sights.
Check the shot pattern for vertical stringing.
The next time you're at the range, ask someone else to shoot it, noting their groups.
I've found that shorter barrels are more sensative to ammo they don't like.
My 2.5" 686 just loves full power magtech 357 magnum ammo, averaging 3" groups @ 25 yds. On a good day, maybe 2". That's about as good as I can shoot offhand consistantly.
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