870 aftermarket idea

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Before I purchased a dedicated Surefire Fore end for my 870, I actually did a modification like the ones that have been previously mentioned.

I took about a 3" section of Picatinny rail and both screwed it and glued it with AcraGlass Gel to the bottom front of my shotguns fore end.

I then used a conventional weaver style scope ring to attach a 6P Surefire light to the mount. It worked great - but - I consistently managed to beat the heck out of my hand with this set up under recoil. Seems like no matter how hard I gripped the fore end I still kept knocking my hand into the back of the light.

Rob
 
Not to be insensitive to those without the budget of the gov't (myself being one of those financially challenged), but it seems to me that if you feel the need for a weapons mounted light on your shotgun, you think its important.
This reminds me of a Kimber 1911 ad I saw several years ago. It said "Carry a Kimber, compromise somewhere else."
It seems to me that this would apply here. If its important and not just another toy (not saying those are bad, I have several myself), buy the surefire, compromise elsewhere.
Good Hunting...
 
Not to be insensitive to those without the budget of the gov't (myself being one of those financially challenged), but it seems to me that if you feel the need for a weapons mounted light on your shotgun, you think its important.

I think it's important to have salt in my diet, too, but I'm not going to pay $200 for it. The problem is that any of the companies making synthetic stocks could make a forend with rings for a 2C maglight or similar, and fabrication costs would be less than $10 more than their regular forend.

It's a shotgun; plumbing with a trigger. Surefire is excellent on my pistol, and a Q-Beam goes well with my varmint rifle, but my shotgun is for use at 2AA cheapie light range.
 
I used a few aircraft engine clamps and a surefire flashlight. The flashlight was $35 so the total cost was $35.

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mainsail - those clamps almost look like they were made for what you are using them for.

Can you provide more information about them? Such as where to get them and what exactly to ask for, part number, item number, etc.

It looks like there is a ring of rubber actually around the Shotgun and light protecting the metal, is that correct?

Rob
 
"It's a shotgun; plumbing with a trigger. Surefire is excellent on my pistol, and a Q-Beam goes well with my varmint rifle, but my shotgun is for use at 2AA cheapie light range."

Take your non-schock proof 2AA cheapie light to the range, attach it to your short barrell "plumbing", turn it on, and let me know how many shots of 00 buck(at least my prefered defense load) it stomachs before the bulb and or the innards give way.
I'm actually curious, not being a smart-ass for once...
Looking forward to the number...
 
I would like to see the numbers posted also.

I am not trying to be a jerk either. But, there is a significant difference between simply attaching a flashlight to a shotgun and having something that is practical to use. One of the biggest things with shotgun lights is the recoil breaking bulbs, so I think it is only fair that if you make a post about your homemade shotgun light mount, you absolutely have to post that you successfully fired XXX rounds of buckshot and slugs through the gun with the light attached and the light still worked. My hat is off to Dave for telling about his mini-mag light. I would also like to see the results of some standard shooting drill where time and accuracy weigh equally. For example, the classic El Presidente' where the light HAS to be on for every shot. So, if you are pressing the tailcap to activate the light, you have to run the gun and press the tailcap for each shot. This would be a good test of how the light mount effects speed.
 
mainsail - those clamps almost look like they were made for what you are using them for.
Can you provide more information about them? Such as where to get them and what exactly to ask for, part number, item number, etc.
It looks like there is a ring of rubber actually around the Shotgun and light protecting the metal, is that correct?

The clamps are used on aircraft engines to secure fuel, air, and oil lines. (Nothing on a jet engine is allowed to flop around freely inside the cowling.) They are fully lined with high temp material that is rubber-like. It’s a pretty solid set-up, I can lift the entire loaded shotgun by the flashlight, it doesn’t move. My left hand can twist the light on or press the momentary switch to turn it on. I’ll be trying it out next week when my Knoxx stock arrives. As for part numbers, I have no idea. You may be able to find them in a performance automotive shop.

I admit, it looks a little dorky, but it works and it was free.

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Take your non-schock proof 2AA cheapie light to the range, attach it to your short barrell "plumbing", turn it on, and let me know how many shots of 00 buck(at least my prefered defense load) it stomachs before the bulb and or the innards give way.
I'm actually curious, not being a smart-ass for once...
Looking forward to the number...

Use the LED conversion from WalMart. It should last pretty much indefinitely.

Whether it would really need to is another question; unless you're planning to hold off the UN forces with a scattergun, what are you planning to do that will need more than 5-10 loads of buckshot?
 
what are you planning to do that will need more than 5-10 loads of buckshot?

Well, first of all you need to train with it.
It is one thing to mount that stuff and look at it in the house and it is a whole different ballgame to actually use it. My experience with any kind of flashlight shooting has been that it isn't anywhere near as easy as it looks. Especially if you are trying to run some kind of challenging drill. The importance of this can not be overestimated. If you have never gone out at night and fired a few real training drills (not just shooting in the air or at beer cans) where you have to run the gun in the dark, you don't know how effective you or your light are. These lights and these homebrew mounts are wonderful IF and only IF they actually work in the dark while firing the gun while you simulate some kind of real encounter.
Which brings us to point #2: formal training. I bought my Surefire light because I attended a formal defensive shotgun class at Gunsite. Louis Awerbuck basically told us on day one that we needed a shotgun light. We did need it and we fired a lot more than 5-10 rounds.
Finally: how do you know how long your light is going to last ? Let's say you confront a home invader. You fire and with the inital shot your bulb blows out. Is he down and out of the fight ? Who knows ? We can't see. How do you find out if your light is going to survive an encounter like that ? By training with it and firing more than 5-10 rounds.
On a different topic, these lights that are activated with the tailcap switch............ Can you keep the light on all the time when running the gun ? Can you pump the gun and not have the light go out ? Can you load the gun and not have the light go out ? Let's say you encounter a home invader and you shoot. You pump the gun, the light goes out just for a second but when it comes back on the guy is gone. Where did he go ? Did he fall behind the couch dead ? Did he crawl off wounded and hole up in the spare bedroom ? Did you miss ? Was he alone or did his buddy duck and cover when you fired ?
 
Whether it would really need to is another question; unless you're planning to hold off the UN forces with a scattergun, what are you planning to do that will need more than 5-10 loads of buckshot?

Most UN forces could probably be held off by giving them the finger.
 
What about this. Holds Streamlight Stinger, Poly Stinger and Stinger XT.

http://www.countycomm.com/shotgunpics.htm




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THAT forend is a good deal and used heavily by the law enforcement comunity with good results!

Choate used to make a lite mount that mounted on the Rem 870/1100 pin holes like a Sidesaddle. I still have one on a folding stock 870. I have a 500 lumen c cell souped up maglite on it it uses one or two industrial hose clamps to hold the light to detachable plate. It comes off with a T handle with coarse threads and locks up securely to index. Pictures to come.
 
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