A question on 1911 beavertails

[MarineTech]

I know that beavertail grip safeties are all the rage nowadays. I know the pros and cons of them as well, and have 1911s that use them. BUT I've never had problems with a stock 1911 grip safety.

Currently, I'm in the process of selecting parts for my RIA project gun. (Yes, yes, I've seen the arguments about RIA and parts fitting. I've already got the gun, and don't plan on picking up something else for the project). I do plan on swapping out the hammer and sear for much better quality parts. My question is, can I use the more modern skeleton or commander designed hammer spurs with a standard grip safety or am I stuck using a stock profile spurred hammer. I'd prefer not to have to fool with a drop in beavertail unless I absolutely have to.

I know you need a bobbed or commander hammer for use with a beavertail, but I wasn't sure if things worked the other way around.

 

[scbair]

As far as I know, a Commander-style hammer spur is fine for use with the mil-spec grip safety. The Commander's been set up like this for years...

 

[Old Fuff]

Yes and no ... Don't cha' love the Old Fuff ???

The Colt Commander's of old used what amounted to a 1911-style grip safety with a "ring" (Broomhandle Mauser style) hammer.

You can use a conventional 1911A1 or Government Model grip safety with the same hammer, but you have to cut a little groove in the top of it so that the hammer can come to full-cock. This is not difficult too do, and doesn't require any special tools, other then a round or half-round file. A cold blue touch-up will finish the job.

 

[MarineTech]

Thanks for the input. Gives me a starting point.

I've actually been looking at the Yost-Bonitz Custom Hammer, Sear, Disconnector set at Brownells.

Found here

I'll pick up the Brownells Hammer/Sear pin block kit too, just to make sure everything lines up properly. I've already got the stones and such to get the job done.

Anybody see any issues with going in this direction?

 

[HSMITH]

I would strongly advise you NOT to start learning to fit a hammer and sear with top shelf expensive parts. Pick up a Chip McCormick hammer and sear to start with. They are decent quality and are low priced.

 

[MarineTech]

But would the McCormick versions stand up like the other?

 

[Jammer Six]

No, they don't.

I did what you're speaking of, and it got expensive.

I wrote about the hammer and sear here, and I wrote about the beavertail here.

The guys you want to hear from are 1911 Tuner, Old Fuff, Chuck Rogers and Wichaka.

Good luck!

 

[Old Fuff]

Numrich/Gunparts Corporation (www.e-gunparts.com) have some inexpensive investment cast Commander-style hammers and sears. These are not what I'd buy to put in a "serious" pistol, but they are ideal for a person who wants to learn and/or practice fitting hammer hooks and sears.

Jammer is absolutely correct when he points out that learing on top-quality parts can get very expensive, and it is unlikely your first try, or for that matter, several tries, will come out right.

>> I've already got the stones and such to get the job done. <<

That's part of what worries me. Hammer hooks should not be worked with stones, except very lightly as a finishing touch.

Before you do anything you need to learn what you're doing ...

 

[MarineTech]

That's part of what worries me. Hammer hooks should not be worked with stones, except very lightly as a finishing touch.

What, you mean I don't use a Dremel.

Kidding Fuff.

Thanks for the wake-up call on this one all. Went back and read Jammer's post about his adventure in sear land, and reread Kuhnhousen's chapters on those areas. Definately out of my depth on this one. Looks like I will be adding an action job along with sight cuts and refinishing to my list for things I need to send the pistol out to a smith for.

I think I'm still going to plan on fitting the trigger itself, the mainspring housing, extractor, and magazine catch myself. I think I'd get into much less trouble with those parts as a start.

 

[Old Fuff]

Then get yourself some Numrich "cheapo" extractors to practice on. The rest on your list shouldn't give you any problems.

It isn't the Dremel I'm worried about, it's the meat-axe ...

 

[MarineTech]

You mean I've got to give up the meat axe?!?! But.... but.... It goes so well with the adze I use to checker stocks and the 2lb hand sledge I use for "precision work".

 

[Old Fuff]

The Old Fuff declines to answer, as he can't reach his keyboard while hiding under the bed ....

 

[MarineTech]

Next thing you're going to tell me is I have to give up the belt sander for polishing work and the black Sharpie I use for blueing.


Phhhhht.


You'll probably tell me too that I not reloading right by just filling the case up to the top with powder and seating the bullet.

 

[HSMITH]

There are umpteen thousands of production guns out there with McCormick hammers and sears in them. They hold up fine, if fitted right. If you wreck them the cost isn't such that it is a big deal. You have stock parts that work, keep them that way, play with something else.

Fitting the hammer and sear isn't rocket science, but it is an aquired skill. Working with a couple sets of parts over the winter that cost $125 total vs wrecking a single set of top shelf parts that cost the same, easy decision on which way to start out.