A quick yet thorough Saiga accuracy test.

Status
Not open for further replies.

rangerruck

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
8,372
Location
Texas, baby!
Okay, let me go into as many details as possible here, I tried for as many variances as possible, to show the true capability of this rifle. Saiga in 223 cal, range is 50 m.
Today, in houston, temps 80 degrees, late afternoon, light humidity.
wind is 20 miles per hr. straight and steady , from our 6.
The saiga is totally stock 16 inch bbl; let me qualify my meaning of stock.
It has a blackjack recoil buffer inside. Also, on all my weapons , i dunk them for a few days, in a stainless trough, with sweetshooters. Then , when that is done, I totally rinse out with hi power steaming hot water, then redunk in synthetic motor oil , for a few more days, such as Castrol.
i find the two above treatments, make a weapon, super easy to clean, and run smooth as butta, also, it looks absolutely brand new, will never rust, even though I keep it in a bag, for about 2 years now. The sweetshooters acts as a total shield against microparticles, and removes like an astringent any micro pockets of carbon, water, or air molecules that may be locked up in the steel anywhere.
Lastly, and I am not sure on this one, I may have molyfusioned the bore on it, i usually do on all my weapons, but do not remember doing this to any of my Saigas.
The mags I used varied from saigas, to orlites, to weigers, 10 to 30 rounders.
The ammo I used was a bit of everything, milsurp, blackhills remandfgr'd, wolf steel, wolf classic, S&B plain milsurp blue box, plain federal red box, Barnaul, Monarch plain, Monarch green box, etc., with diff weights of the bullets as well.
The range was 50 m, and the rests were bags; they were intermittent, in that , sometimes I used a rear sandbag, and with the 30 round mags, it was front sandbag only.
The firing was done, I was going for accuracy, but I was not in my usual benchrest mode, so I was firing maybe 10 seconds per round fired.
008-6.jpg
004-7.jpg
005-6.jpg
006-6.jpg
013-2.jpg
014-2.jpg
007-6.jpg
001-10.jpg

What we have here is one sheet, with 9 dots on it, each dot is a 3 inch
diameter.
As you can see all are 10 shot groups, don't ask me why on the top middle
dot I had the 3 high flyers, I don't get it, I must have minutely changed my sight picture, before settling back down.
Now then, for the amazing stats, this rifle was set up about 1 yr. ago, with a 1 inch high 100m zero. I did not change anything. It is open sites, by the way.( yeah, I have extemely good longe range eyesight) With the origional crap sites, that come with these weapons. Also, in case you don't know about the stock saiga trigger, it is two stage, the first stage is like dragging a cinder block with one finger, the second stage, is about double the pull weight of the first stage, and the way the make these triggers, it feels like Colonel Kurtz, talking about..." walking down the edge.... of a ... straight
razor!" Very uncomfortable. Also , if you are not familiar with the famous AK
trigger slap, imagine everytime you pull the trigger , Moe, from the 3 stooges, slaps you across your finger!!!! Ouch.
Okay, back to amazing stats; rifle zero was never changed, also, I never check my groups between 3 or five rounds, I never changed my site picture, and fired all 10 rounds, until i was done. Then I checked the groups through binos... so no adjusting any sites, and no kentucky windage, between groups, or new dots. That is amazing.
Also, if you look carefully, you will see that in essence, all groups went basically to the middle of the dot. just some groups are a bit wider....Now that is truly amazing. Why? becuase even in top flight made rigs, when you change ammo this drastically , diff mfgrs, diff weights, diff cases, diff powders, diff speeds, diff everything, usually even a decent bolt gun will throw the diff groups, left, right , up , down, way off the dot, you name it.
NONE OF THAT, happened here, i have allways believed that Saiga put a top flight made bbl on these, and this helps to confirm this. Oh yeah, this is a 16 inch bbl rifle.
A couple of these groups, namely the center group, which i new was black hills 55 grain blu box, and the top right , I believe was the S&B, standard milsurp aqua box, and the bottom right, ammo unknown, If I really woulda buckled down, and not been firing shots every 10 seconds, I could have made these groups MOA, again, with these crap open sites.
I hope this answers many of your Saiga accuracy questions.
Now i can't guarantee what you will get off of their line, and then again, nobody I know chemically treats their rifles the way I do, but I have had many Saigas now, and they have all been pretty much like this.
Again, I tried to make as many variances as possible, to make it difficult to replicate any particular situation, so that pretty much everything was left up to the weapon, and my ability to hold it steady.
 
Last edited:
That was great, thanks, and certainly seems to dispel some myths about Saiga accuracy. I have been thinking about getting one an keeping it stock except for upgrading the iron sights, and your range report seems to back up that plan. Then again, I may just NEED to get one of the "long barrel special" poor man's Dragunov in 7.62x39, and the regular sporter stock in .223. So many guns, so little time....

I bet I am not the only one that would appreciate a step-by-step description of your gun preparation process (maybe a new thread?) and the rationale behind it. After the soaking in synthetic motor oil, how do you clean the gun to remove the oil and does it change your normal, routine rifle cleaning procedures after each shooting session?

Thanks again!
 
I had a stainless steel trough built for me, about 60 bucks, 36 inches long, 4 inches deep , 6 inches wide. I then strip down all the parts that are not metal, and put all metal parts in the trough. it sits covered outside, nice and warm, to soak into the metal real good. As it is a super astringent and really penetrates into the metal, it basically loosens up, disentigrates up, and floats out, anything that doesn't belong. now when you pull it out, your weapon will be bone-daddy dry, it almost looks ghostly, kinda scary!!!
So then I soak again, for a few days , in the synth lube, and let that synth lube get into all the teeneh , tineh , nooks and micro crannies all hear, there, and about. Then I take out, and let drip dry basically.
Cleaning is so easy, it is almost a joke, I have yet to put a brush down the tube, just patches, eveything else is just a wipe down. I don't even bother to wipe the outside anymore, nothing sticks to it.
My rationale is this; I don't want to clean any more than i have to; I want the weapon to be as rust resistant as possible, I want the weapon to function as smooth as possible , even when i don't clean or lube it.
I want a weapon that will have a super smooth bore, that is accurate, and easy to clean, I want a weapon that i can store in a bag, not touch for a year, and when I pull it out, still looks brand new, and is 100% reliable.
I feel I come as close to accomplishing this as possible, doing this.
I did this same thing to another rifle of mine, a 70 year old marlin mod 80 dl, that I won on a auction site. When I got it shipped in, it had absolutely no bluing, and was a complete rust bucket. did the same treatment as above.
Then put in a very old deer skinned, WOOL LINED, gunbag, then put in the trunk of my car.... which leaked... badly. i put it in during two febs. ago , while still freezing temps, and pulled it out last week of last April, nice and hot and humid and rainy by then . Not a spot of rust on it anywhere.
005-2.jpg
004-2.jpg
003-2.jpg
002-2.jpg
001-2.jpg
if you read about sweethshooters on the 'net, I do not do the shooting part
that they want you to do. Just soak it. I have written to other dudes, who have had soso luck with the bore prep they want you to do, So i just use it as a great metal prep, and astringent.
 
[strike]How many yards was the target at?[/strike]

N/M. Saw it was at 50 meters.

Just a suggestion: it'd make your posts easier to read if you put a space between your paragraphs. :)
 
I may just NEED to get one of the "long barrel special" poor man's Dragunov in 7.62x39, and the regular sporter stock in .223. So many guns, so little time....

if you're going for a "poor man's dragunov" go with the 20'' bbl .223 it's more accurate than the 7.62x39 pass 200 yards...
 
Also, I am still thinking of doing a simple conversion, pistol grip, trigger kit, stock. Who makes the smallest / least parts kit , for sale?
 
Looks like typical AK accuracy to me:confused: Don't take that the wrong way, I love AK's for what they are, minute of pieplate at 100m. I just ordered a Saiga 7.62 the other day. If I stumbled upon a rifle that couldn't match those results (50m. ain't very far), I'd chuck it off a cliff.
 
Do you think a scope would have gotten better results?

Range Ruck,

Like this?

DSC03737-1.jpg

Just need the three-parts for the single-hook FCG, then the furniture, and bullet guide (if you want to use cheap mags).
 
yeah, that looks simple, and good.
again, remember on the testing, diff types and weights of ammo, diff or no rests, firing shots between 5 to under 10 seconds per shot, no adjusting of sites, or site pic, no kentucky windage, no comparing shots with binos as I went along, just fired all 10 on a dot, then looked. I think what it shows, is that with all these variants, especially the hi wind, diff bag rest setups, or no rear rest at all, and the many, way, diff types of ammo fired, what it shows is some serious accuracy POTENTIAL. When I did have one scoped, many moons ago, i could do sub moa with at least 3 diff types of ammo, at 100 m. This was regular 55 grain black hills blu box, 62 grain wolf, regular green/yellow box remington, and white box winny 45 grainers. The 308 I had was not more accurate at the time, but could do moa with a BUNCH of diff milsurp ammo, american, british, australian, S. african, and the S. american nazi stuff, like chilean, venezuelan, and others.
 
And here is one more trick to firing these, I had another paper next to it with 1 inch dots, 5 dots per line.
If you have ever looked at lines of black dots, on white paper , at a distance, you had better concentrate, and use all your eye tricks for clarity , as possible.
because those dots will start looking double, and running together, and lookin like they are moving and crawling across your paper, if you stare at them too long!!!
 
if you're going for a "poor man's dragunov" go with the 20'' bbl .223 it's more accurate than the 7.62x39 pass 200 yards...

Or go with the 20" 308. I have an 8x POSP on mine. It shoots 1-1.5" at 100 without pause. Siagas are no joke.

Just remember to make sure you are 922(r) compliant if you use hi-cap magazines.
 
Yeah, I don't mean to be derogatory, but my Rommie 7.62x39 will do that. In fact, it will almost do that at twice the range. My Rommie does about 5 inches all day long at 100 yards from a bench, with Wolf ammo. That's with iron sights. I have a Kobra mounted on it, but haven't got a chance to shoot much with it, and haven't dialed it in past about 20 yards.

And anyone who says minute of pie plate at 100 yards is typical accuracy for AKs is either shooting the wrong AKs, or eating the wrong pies. All three of the AKs in my family are capable of minute of pie plate at 200 yards. Maybe we just got lucky, but it is not like we buy high dollar AKs either--there is two WASRs, each of which will do 4 to 5 MOA consistently, and a Chinese MAK that can do 3 to 4 inches at 100 yards.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top