A2 build

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I'm assuming the "Burst" position on the safe/fire selector is purely cosmetic, but how and why did you go with having your receiver marked US Govt Property? Seems to me you may be creating a legal problem for yourself down the road, not withstanding that the PSA roll mark nearby obviously marks the rifle as commercially made.
DB

I picked up that lower a while ago with the intention of using it on this specific build. Yes, the burst is for looks and PSA sold them with the USG verbiage.
 
I could be wrong, but I kind of don't think so. The A2 was the cutting edge when I was in the Army (and, in my opinion, remains so, but what do I know) I've never worked with a 6/3 drum, but the clicks between 3 and 8 on the 8/3 drum were long, and each detent was 100m. You zeroed on Z at 25 m then set the drum to 8/3 and you should be just about on at 300. From there, go up to 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8...hundred meters. 8/3 is the same position on the wheel, but there is a full rotation between them. As I always understood it, the 0-250 aperture was larger in diameter for more light coming through the sight and faster target acquisition at the closer ranges. The L aperture (or however it was marked) was for 300m and beyond and was smaller in diameter for more precision. However...the older A1 rear sight had two different apertures and they were at different positions (heights) and they actually changed the zero for shooting at longer ranges.

This, IMO, simplifies a lot.

What I understand of this is some guys (who I don't know, is this GIs doing this or just civilians?) are zeroing their ARs at shorter ranges due to the sight offsets and holdovers required by the tall sights on the AR to be precisely on target at shorter ranges. If you zero an AR at 300m and your target is 75m away, your point of impact will not match your point of aim. (I don't know all the math behind that because we were taught to zero at 300 and you'll hit your target within a few inches of point of aim anywhere from 0-300 meters. I secretly used a 6 o clock sight picture so I had to aim high on the 25m target to avoid hitting the dirt.)

Well, one guy said he's a veteran, so his comment sounded like a departure from his previous training. Then there's Reid Henrichs, but a lot of times he's running an optic... he demonstrated using a 100m zero, being dead-on at 200 and still being close at 300... his hits were all within a few inches, also without getting heavy on the math.

Yes some people prefer the 50/200 meter zero and there are other improvised/improved battle sight zeros that you can use. To keep it simple as to how they sights were designed, use the 25/300 battle sight zero.

No arguement with simplicity.
 
Using an optic is a whole other ball game compared to using the standard peep sights. Most guys will sight in a red dot at either 25 or 50 yards and scopes at 100 or 200 yards.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier. The reason for double checking your zero at distance after doing a battle sight zero is that when you switch from the large aperture to the small aperture, it will effect your windage adjustment.
 
after doing a battle sight zero is that when you switch from the large aperture to the small aperture, it will effect your windage adjustment.

I have never heard of this, and I can see no reason why this would be true. Can you please elaborate more on this and clarify?
 
I have never heard of this, and I can see no reason why this would be true. Can you please elaborate more on this and clarify?

It is simple. The rear aperture rides on a threaded bolt. When ever you move it even 90 degrees, it will change the windage adjustment as the aperture rides/turns on the bolt threads. It won't make much of a difference at short ranges but can make a difference at long ranges. Moving the aperture from the large hole to the small hole moves the rear sight about 0.005-0.008" to the right. 5-8 thousands of an inch doesn't sound like much but it can and does make a difference at longer ranges.
 
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