tahunua001
Member
I generally start midway through the list and work towards hot loads.
Acceptable Garand Accuracy?
- Thread starter TheHappyGunner
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Well, I'm a bit more conservative. I start at the bottom & work up in half grain increments.
tahunua001
Member
I normally only reload for hunting so I I like to start higher than most and then load until I get a good mix of velocity and accuracy.
krs
Member
Nobody's mentioned the condition of your barrel so I'll ask: if you put a loaded round into the muzzle bullet first how far toward the brass case will it go into the barrel? Depending on bullets somewhat but a good barrel should have at least 1/4" before the brass contacts the muzzle. If this is a service rifle a lot of troopers got pretty bad when cleaning from their muzzles - using little care, steel rods, and hogging out their muzzles awfully, and that wrecks any chance for accuracy.
If your barrel is good then your targets don't really give info as to your rifle accuracy. I think they are speaking to trigger control and sighting (shooter) more than the capability of the rifle.
You fired two shots into the ten/center. Figure out what you did to do that and do it some more.
If your barrel is good then your targets don't really give info as to your rifle accuracy. I think they are speaking to trigger control and sighting (shooter) more than the capability of the rifle.
You fired two shots into the ten/center. Figure out what you did to do that and do it some more.
AABEN
Member
What is your trigger pull? That will make a big different!!
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Vern and anyone else interested in M1 Garand loading data what is available in the Hornady 9th Edition can be found here.
Ron
Ron
AABEN
Member
Some of my friends use ACC 2520 when shooting at Camp Perry. That is one powder that I would try.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Accurate 2520 is included in the 150 / 155 grain bullet loadings in the link I just posted (post #30) if that helps.
Ron
M2 Carbine
member
Congratulations on your Garand.
This is the only picture I have of my first M1. It was a brand new International Harvester.
The Marine Corps gave it to me when I was 18 years old, 1956.
We qualified at 200, 300 and 500 yards. 20 inch Bullseye at 500 yards.
I liked 500 yards. You could just lay there and the M1 would put bullets in that Bullseye all day long. (Of course my eyes were better then)
I have three nice Garands now.
The last time I shot one was at 300 yards at pieces of broken clay birds. Mostly hit them.
To answer your question.
You have some work yet. A decent M1 should easily hold less than two inches at 100 yards.
Stay at it, just hearing the clip "ping" is half the fun.
This is the only picture I have of my first M1. It was a brand new International Harvester.
The Marine Corps gave it to me when I was 18 years old, 1956.
We qualified at 200, 300 and 500 yards. 20 inch Bullseye at 500 yards.
I liked 500 yards. You could just lay there and the M1 would put bullets in that Bullseye all day long. (Of course my eyes were better then)
I have three nice Garands now.
The last time I shot one was at 300 yards at pieces of broken clay birds. Mostly hit them.
To answer your question.
You have some work yet. A decent M1 should easily hold less than two inches at 100 yards.
Stay at it, just hearing the clip "ping" is half the fun.
NeuseRvrRat
Member
Here's 2 targets shot with my 'new' HRA M1 Service Grade, actually it did look NEW after I cleaned it. Shot off a bench at 100 yds using HXP surplus ammo. I'm feeling pretty good about the guns potential. First one is a clean 5 shot group, second is the last 18 rounds I had shot at a pretty steady pace.
You will never get great results with those targetsand iron sights. You need a SR-1 target and practice , practice, parctice
Remember the Garand is not a Match rifle but a battle rifle. With the proper target and practice and if the barrel is not worn you should get all 8 rds in a 3-4 inch group at 100
Remember the Garand is not a Match rifle but a battle rifle. With the proper target and practice and if the barrel is not worn you should get all 8 rds in a 3-4 inch group at 100
Actually, I have a feeling your group size is related to the target you are using. There is no well defined "aiming black", such as the SR-1 target. Repeatability for a consistent shot placement with that target would be difficult for me. My garands will consistently shoot 2 to 4" groups at 100 yards, if I do my part. My 4895 loading with 150's is also about 46 gr, and gets them there accurately. 48 gr will get 'em there quicker.
TheHappyGunner
Member
More great and useful posts. Thanks a lot guys.
The trigger pull on my Garand is actually quite bad. It's two stage is fine and it break cleanly with NO creep, but the final squeeze is probably 5-6 lbs. Maybe more, maybe less (but not much less!) I would like to keep this Garand as "stock" as possible. She is a mixmaster, but I don't want to put anything on her or alter anything that the original armorers wouldn't.
Is there anything I can do to my Garand's trigger pull to still have it be legal at, say, John C. Garand matches in the future? I understand they don't allow altered Garands to compete.
The trigger pull on my Garand is actually quite bad. It's two stage is fine and it break cleanly with NO creep, but the final squeeze is probably 5-6 lbs. Maybe more, maybe less (but not much less!) I would like to keep this Garand as "stock" as possible. She is a mixmaster, but I don't want to put anything on her or alter anything that the original armorers wouldn't.
Is there anything I can do to my Garand's trigger pull to still have it be legal at, say, John C. Garand matches in the future? I understand they don't allow altered Garands to compete.
You can havetrigger work done, 5lb trigger pull is minimum
Here are some other things that can affect accuracy:
1-As already stated several times you are using the wrong target
2- grab the rear sight aperture does it move side to side? If so replace the spring sight cover
3- grab the gas cylinder can you rotate it? If it moves any at all you need toeen" the barrel splines
Stock Fit is a huge factor in accuracy:
4- Unlatch the trigger guard and remove, turn rifle upside down in your lap. Grab the barrel in one hand and hold the stock in the other. Push ,pull on the barrel, does the action move in the stock? If there is any movement you will need a new stock, you cant bed it to be JCG leagal
5- Insert the trigger group how far away from the action does the end of the trigger guard stop before it gets hard to close.
If there is little or no resistance either the triggerguard lugs are worn or stock is compressed or both.
Stock and or gaurd will need replaced . You cant shim the trigger guard are and be JCG legal
6-Front handguard should be able to "slightly" move back and forth, should not be tight against lower band abd gas cylinder
7- Rear handgaurd should have a very small gap between lower band and reciver
8- stock ferrule should be ight on stock and have a gap between it an the lower band
9- lower band should fit tight on barrel, not movearound
10- Look at the muzzle is it dented or dinged? If it is dinged on the oustide of the crown its fine, if inside you should be it recrowned
11- as already stated you need to check Muzzle Wear
12-sight picture, are you using 6 0'Clock hold?
13- If you were shooting off a rest off bench do not set front handguard on rest. It is open on the bottom and op rod can rub rest affecting accuracy
14- tilt test, is usually a function test but if the op rod rubs hard it can affect accuracy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY
15- practice, practice, practice
I'm sure I have forgot something but this will give you some things to check
Here are some other things that can affect accuracy:
1-As already stated several times you are using the wrong target
2- grab the rear sight aperture does it move side to side? If so replace the spring sight cover
3- grab the gas cylinder can you rotate it? If it moves any at all you need to
een" the barrel splinesStock Fit is a huge factor in accuracy:
4- Unlatch the trigger guard and remove, turn rifle upside down in your lap. Grab the barrel in one hand and hold the stock in the other. Push ,pull on the barrel, does the action move in the stock? If there is any movement you will need a new stock, you cant bed it to be JCG leagal
5- Insert the trigger group how far away from the action does the end of the trigger guard stop before it gets hard to close.
If there is little or no resistance either the triggerguard lugs are worn or stock is compressed or both.
Stock and or gaurd will need replaced . You cant shim the trigger guard are and be JCG legal
6-Front handguard should be able to "slightly" move back and forth, should not be tight against lower band abd gas cylinder
7- Rear handgaurd should have a very small gap between lower band and reciver
8- stock ferrule should be ight on stock and have a gap between it an the lower band
9- lower band should fit tight on barrel, not movearound
10- Look at the muzzle is it dented or dinged? If it is dinged on the oustide of the crown its fine, if inside you should be it recrowned
11- as already stated you need to check Muzzle Wear
12-sight picture, are you using 6 0'Clock hold?
13- If you were shooting off a rest off bench do not set front handguard on rest. It is open on the bottom and op rod can rub rest affecting accuracy
14- tilt test, is usually a function test but if the op rod rubs hard it can affect accuracy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY
15- practice, practice, practice
I'm sure I have forgot something but this will give you some things to check
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The target, particularly with iron sights, makes a difference. When I shoot irons for a group I'll often use a large piece of cardboard with a giant "+" made of black duct tape. It is easy to put the front sight on a corner shere the tape crosses over each other for a consistent picture. The first group from my refurb'd 03A3 (criterion barrel) was 5/8". I was pretty impressed. I don't think I would have gotten that tye with a round target aiming for the center.
As others have mentioned though, 3"-4" for a stock rifle should be considered acceptable. Same time I shot that group a guy on the bench next to me was shooting patterns with his Mosin. He asked me to shoot a group, and it did 3". I thought it was perfectly acceptable.
As others have mentioned though, 3"-4" for a stock rifle should be considered acceptable. Same time I shot that group a guy on the bench next to me was shooting patterns with his Mosin. He asked me to shoot a group, and it did 3". I thought it was perfectly acceptable.
Yeah, it is difficult to get a consistent hold on the center of ANY target, unless it has a designated mark. I always go for a 6 o'clock hold on a bulls eye. I choose to use bulls eyes, as that is pretty much universal for competition and tells me what I need to know.
I sometimes do something similar; an upside down "T" which gives a solid reference. When using a 6 o'clock hold don't forget that the color of the target & the brightness will impact your vertical POI. Your eye will perceive a "sliver of light" as somewhat different thickness , thus altering your POI.
Keep working at it & don't give up.
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