Advice on Beginning with 30/06

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JFrameTwitch

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I reload 38spl, .357 Magnum and .45ACP on my lee classic turret press. I need a shopping list for how to get started on loading 30/06.
Does lee make carbide dies for the 30/06? I see on amazon they offer a set in a red box "pacemaker" but it does not say if it is carbide. Will I use my auto disk and my safety prime with a rifle setup? I noticed the die sets don't have a powder through sizing die.
Thanks
 
You have to lube bottleneck cartridges regardless, so there isn't any real advantage or demand for carbide dies for them.
 
I reload 38spl, .357 Magnum and .45ACP on my lee classic turret press. I need a shopping list for how to get started on loading 30/06.
Does lee make carbide dies for the 30/06? I see on amazon they offer a set in a red box "pacemaker" but it does not say if it is carbide. Will I use my auto disk and my safety prime with a rifle setup? I noticed the die sets don't have a powder through sizing die.
Thanks
Yes, Lee does make 30-06 dies and they work well. The Pacesetter dies are the most common which include a Factory Crimp die and the shellholder which will run you ~$31/set.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/52...ie-set-30-06-springfield?cm_vc=ProductFinding

I suggest using Imperial sizing wax as a lube for sizing rifle cases. A little goes a very long way and you won't stick a case in the die.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/519525/imperial-case-sizing-wax-2-oz

You can use your Safety-Prime to prime on press but I prefer hand priming for rifle cases since I usually like to clean the primer pockets anyway.

I find it very difficult to use an Auto-Disk to charge large rifle cases even with the Doubel-Disk set. I charge with a Lyman #55 off press although I could charge on press with a Universal Charging Die.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/652922/lee-universal-charging-die?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Add the Lee Perfect Powder Measure and you can easily charge on press.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/540522/lee-perfect-powder-measure

I hope this helps a little...
 
Most rifle dies are plain steel, but Dillon make some carbide dies for bottle necked cases but are fairly expensive ($$$$) and IMO not really necessary (I'm using a Herter's 30-30 die set, steel, that is at least 35 years old and has reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds many before I got them).

I reloaded handgun ammo for over 20 years before I tried a rifle cartridge, so I'll share what I did when I first reloaded bottle necked ammo. I went with full length sizing die sets (Lee dies in .223/5.56, pre collet sizing, crimp) for my single shots and my semi-autos, K.I.S.S. I use Mink Oil Boot Dressing for a case lube as it works quite well, and is easy to apply and remove, and it is available anywhere shoe polish is sold. Whatever lube you choose, use it sparingly so as to avoid "hydraulic dents". I used book loads and book OAL dimensions for the particular bullet I was using. I used a Lee, and now a Lyman trimmer set so I wouldn't have to figger out a case length as it is set permanently in the tool. I inspected each case after it was fired, looking for anything abnormal. Most other operations are the same as with handgun ammo.

As with any reloading; Go slow, double check everything, and most important have fun...
 
I'll add one more tidbit. Like you I loaded pistols for along time before loading rifle, also 30-06, and my first mistake was trying to crimp them like a pistol, and setting the neck back and making the shoulder bulge. Bottleneck rounds don't require a crimp in most cases, and are held in place by the case neck tension. Even bullets with a cannelure just need a tiny crimp to tuck the brass mouth slightly inward.
 
Rifle is a lot more involved than handgun reloading. Mostly in case prep/sizing/trimming/checking headspace. If you shoot a semi-auto you MUST use a case gauge and confirm headspace, and most recommend sizing to the bottom step (the most setback) to help prevent slamfires. If for a bolt gun then you're golden as long as they chamber.

Carbide dies for rifle don't really mean much IMO because you have to use a good lube anyway (I like Imperial Sizing Wax as noted).

You'll need a trimmer eventually. I use the RCBS Trim Pro with 3-way cutter, and a drill attachment. http://youtu.be/qIlUBBNJ6zI

You'll need to ream or swage military primer pockets, and I recommend cleaning and possibly uniforming primer pockets. Not necessary but helps with proper, below-flush primer seating depth, another MUST on semi-auto rifles.

I've only used H4895 for rifles so far and I can't get enough through the Pro Auto Disc with double disc kit to properly charge .30-06. You'll need a Rifle Charging Die if you want to try it. Other powders may work fine. I throw charges for .30-06 with a Redding powder measure.

I do decap and prime on the LCT and I love the priming system. I size on an old single stage, generally. Tim's right; you generally don't need to crimp bottlenecked rifle brass if neck tension is proper.
 
Another thing to consider is the overall length (OAL) of your reloads. Some rifles like my Remington .270 have very long throats. You can increase accuracy by making sure the bullet is almost touching the lands of the rifling. Hornady sells an OAL gauge that uses a threaded casing, in your case .30-06, which with a caliper lets you very precisely measure your chamber length.

If your .30-06 happens to be a M1 Garand, there are very specific recommendations about which kinds of gunpowder to use and how much. Bolt actions are much less complicated. If you are loading for a pump action rifle or a commercial semi-auto, you should consider using small base dies to make sure your loads chamber super easy since these actions have little camming action to force tight loads into the chamber. If you are using an action with lots of camming power, you might be able to get away with a neck sizer, like the Lee Collet Die, which makes for super accurate loads and long brass life. That is what I do with a Ruger #1.
 
Well I have obviously found the place to get some suggestions. Here is the deal...
I purchased the lee pacemaker dies and I am ready to set up. I have two bolt action rifles, one is a remington 700 and the other is a sporterized remington 1903. In hopes of avoiding yet another rifle purchase, I would like to create a low recoil practice round for my wife out of the 1903. It is heavy, has a cheek friendly stock, and a recoil pad. I have been shooting both guns for a long time but have never worried about recoil much.
However, my wife wants to get into hunting... This is new, and my lord I want nothing but positiveness here. I don't want her to be shy in any way. I plan to start her on the .22lr and train properly and all that but the end result needs to be the 30.06. She can handle it, she is 5'8" and 150lbs of muscle. She's a fitness freak. I started shooting both of these rifles at age 12 and sub 10 pounds so I am sure she can handle it.
But, I want her to start out with a lighter load and work up to a full house hunting load as fall approaches.
Please advise on some lighter loads that have been successful for practice.
Thanks.
 
The 30-06 is an easy cartridge to load for. There are dozens of good powders and bullets that will work well. As others have said, there is a little more case prep in bottle neck rifle cases. The big difference between rifle and pistol is adjusting the sizing die correctly. There are a lot of tools made to help you do this, but many of us did it long before any of these tools were made. I suggest that you start with just one of your rifles until you get comfortable with the process. I keep my ammo separate when I load for different rifles in the same caliber.

For loads in your Wife's rifle, try a faster burning powder like 3031 or 4895 and 130 to 150 grain bullets. For practice, you could even try the 100 grain plinker or some of the 110 grain offerings.

Congrats on your Wife starting to hunt and shoot! My Wife started with a 308, so not much different from your 06. I bought my Wife a Pact recoil pad that she uses at the range. I've found it important that their first experience be pleasant, not painful. If the rifle is scoped, caution Her about getting to close to the eye piece. Good Luck!
 
I think you'll have a better rifle setup if you charge off the press. Lee makes a cheap measure that works pretty good. Add a block to hold the cases, a scale and a ~$20 trickler and you'll have a pretty good setup for charging. Set the measure to consistently drop a charge slightly below desired weight. Set pan on scale and trickle up.

The info in post #10 is, IMHO, the way to go for light loads and some have proven pretty accurate for me.

As mentioned above, sizing a rifle case is a lot different than pistol cases. The instructions that come w/ most dies will achieve a functioning cartridge, but will most likely result in oversizing your brass. Hornady makes an affordable tool that works with your calipers to measure case length from head to datum (shoulder). IMO, it is worth every penny.
 
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