Advice on pistol lubricant?
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Pistolsmith
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Everyone has a favorite system of lubrication/protection and it can be cussed and discussed ad infinitum.
Basically, there are three choices: Oil, grease or dry lubricants and waxes.
Oil is the usual choice, but it is very tricky to get a proper amount applied to moving parts; it needs to be a light enough coating so that it will not become carbon sludge after some firing. It will also migrate, due to gravity. It is the worst choice for protection, since it rubs off on everything it touches...clothing, hands, holster interior, etc. Oil is a lubricant, i.e., it is a substance that is designed to lubricate moving parts. If you choose oil, you can use a silicone rag to protect the pistol's exterior.
Grease is a much better product for lubricating moving parts, in that it lasts longer than oil between moving parts and it is effective under greater pressure. If you choose grease, you can still use a silicone rag to protect the pistol's exterior.
Dry lubricants, especially dry moly disulphide creates a very thin layer of lubricant between moving parts. In that it has a molecular affinity for steel, it will stay put longer than grease or oil and it will not combine with carbon from burned powder to become sludge. There are many different dry lubes to choose from.
Bore cleaning should always be followed by a protective layer of grease or dry lube. Follow the lube with a dry patch. Keep the chamber area free of grease and oil residue, since if present, it will jack pressures up into a spike and its lubricity will prevent a cartridge case from clinging to the chamber walls, thus giving a piston thrust against the slide face upon firing and severely straining the mechanism.
My favorite protection for the exterior of a pistol is silicone auto wax. It is a real chore to apply and rub out, but once applied it lasts for years under normal conditions and it really does prevent rust and corrosion. It will stay put until you remove it with a solvent.
Just remember that moving parts ALWAYS require a lubricant. If you run parts together dry, they will begin to wear and loosen. Do not neglect the slide rails. The trigger and sear mechanism require something like a silicone or moly disulphide grease in minute quantities or a treatment of dry moly lube.
Just follow up with whatever works best for you. There are varying weather patterns across the country, and if you are out in severe weather conditions, take particular care to accommodate your pistol to them. If you are out in a dust or sand storm, strip it down, clean every bit of foreign matter from every surface and re-lubricate.
Clean your pistol at regular intervals if you don't fire it and immediately after firing it, lest you put it off and forget.
Take care of your pistol and it will take care of you when you need it.
Basically, there are three choices: Oil, grease or dry lubricants and waxes.
Oil is the usual choice, but it is very tricky to get a proper amount applied to moving parts; it needs to be a light enough coating so that it will not become carbon sludge after some firing. It will also migrate, due to gravity. It is the worst choice for protection, since it rubs off on everything it touches...clothing, hands, holster interior, etc. Oil is a lubricant, i.e., it is a substance that is designed to lubricate moving parts. If you choose oil, you can use a silicone rag to protect the pistol's exterior.
Grease is a much better product for lubricating moving parts, in that it lasts longer than oil between moving parts and it is effective under greater pressure. If you choose grease, you can still use a silicone rag to protect the pistol's exterior.
Dry lubricants, especially dry moly disulphide creates a very thin layer of lubricant between moving parts. In that it has a molecular affinity for steel, it will stay put longer than grease or oil and it will not combine with carbon from burned powder to become sludge. There are many different dry lubes to choose from.
Bore cleaning should always be followed by a protective layer of grease or dry lube. Follow the lube with a dry patch. Keep the chamber area free of grease and oil residue, since if present, it will jack pressures up into a spike and its lubricity will prevent a cartridge case from clinging to the chamber walls, thus giving a piston thrust against the slide face upon firing and severely straining the mechanism.
My favorite protection for the exterior of a pistol is silicone auto wax. It is a real chore to apply and rub out, but once applied it lasts for years under normal conditions and it really does prevent rust and corrosion. It will stay put until you remove it with a solvent.
Just remember that moving parts ALWAYS require a lubricant. If you run parts together dry, they will begin to wear and loosen. Do not neglect the slide rails. The trigger and sear mechanism require something like a silicone or moly disulphide grease in minute quantities or a treatment of dry moly lube.
Just follow up with whatever works best for you. There are varying weather patterns across the country, and if you are out in severe weather conditions, take particular care to accommodate your pistol to them. If you are out in a dust or sand storm, strip it down, clean every bit of foreign matter from every surface and re-lubricate.
Clean your pistol at regular intervals if you don't fire it and immediately after firing it, lest you put it off and forget.
Take care of your pistol and it will take care of you when you need it.
Any name brand gun oil will work fine. I also like to use, especially on the outside, RIG grease. The trick is to clean the gun often ( remove all dirt , powder residue etc ) and lightly oil. Those that do this often find there guns are more reliable and last longer.
sm
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Pistolsmith
Well said.
Key points: have a schedule ,condusive to one's climate, and elements firearm subjected to.
Formula 3 by Kleenbore and RIG Universal.
Sometimes/have used Johnson's Paste Wax for Exterior.
Oil from crankcase, or Trans fluid from a vehicle, been known to get a student/ fellow hunter back up and running...
Well said.
Key points: have a schedule ,condusive to one's climate, and elements firearm subjected to.
Formula 3 by Kleenbore and RIG Universal.
Sometimes/have used Johnson's Paste Wax for Exterior.
Oil from crankcase, or Trans fluid from a vehicle, been known to get a student/ fellow hunter back up and running...
bountyhunter
member
Grease is best for high stress surfaces like barrel lugs, rails, sear faces, bushings, etc. The best greases areound are:
Slide Glide
Militec Grease
Tetra Gun Grease
Wilson Ultima Lube
Slide Glide
Militec Grease
Tetra Gun Grease
Wilson Ultima Lube
4
4 eyed six shooter
Guest
Pistolsmith about covered everything. The only thing I would add is not to over lube. A little goes a long way. I have seen too many firearms dripping with lube. Clean and lube often and your pistol will last a long time and funtion when you need it to.
Enjoy your new pistol, John K
Enjoy your new pistol, John K
Bottom Gun
Member
You can get a free sample of the latest high tech lube at:
www.militec-1.com
It's supposed to be the stuff the military now uses. I just received my sample but haven't had a chance to try it yet.
www.militec-1.com
It's supposed to be the stuff the military now uses. I just received my sample but haven't had a chance to try it yet.
i like hoppe's gun grease lightly with q - tip wear i see visible rail wear and rem oil everywhere else. i got my free sample of militec in the mail haven't used it yet though. the people at www.1911forum.com rave about a product called FP-10 but i have no personal experience with it
ambidextrous1
Member
The Ameriban fighting man has done very well with GI gun oil worldwide; it's always available at gun shows and elsewhere.
Notwithstanding this, a lot of progress has been made in the so-called synthetic lubricantsin the past 30 years. I like to try new things, and used Mobil 1 on my pistols for about three years. About 6 months ago, I went back to gun oil, and have been using FP 10 since then. It was a dramatic improvement over Mobil 1, producing a much smoother feel to rge gun when cycled manually.
I believe it's not what you use as much as whether you use anything. As others have noted in this thread, "dry is bad", and will result in excessive wear. When lubing long guns, greater care must be taken ib the selection and application of lubricants, because of the high pressures and stresses involved.
Notwithstanding this, a lot of progress has been made in the so-called synthetic lubricantsin the past 30 years. I like to try new things, and used Mobil 1 on my pistols for about three years. About 6 months ago, I went back to gun oil, and have been using FP 10 since then. It was a dramatic improvement over Mobil 1, producing a much smoother feel to rge gun when cycled manually.
I believe it's not what you use as much as whether you use anything. As others have noted in this thread, "dry is bad", and will result in excessive wear. When lubing long guns, greater care must be taken ib the selection and application of lubricants, because of the high pressures and stresses involved.
)Longbow
Member
FP10! Works great, smells good too!
Badger Arms
Member
Protectant? EEZOX. Hard to get but GREAT STUFF.
Lube? EEZOX or Break-Free
Cleaner? Break-Free or EEZOX
Grease? Tetra-Gun Grease.
Bore Cleaner? Tetra-Gun Bore cleaner or Hoppes #9 (Most pistols don't care much if you clean the bore extra good.
Bore Conditioner? Tetra-Gun Oil.
Yeah, I have them all but I use EEZOX mostly.
Lube? EEZOX or Break-Free
Cleaner? Break-Free or EEZOX
Grease? Tetra-Gun Grease.
Bore Cleaner? Tetra-Gun Bore cleaner or Hoppes #9 (Most pistols don't care much if you clean the bore extra good.
Bore Conditioner? Tetra-Gun Oil.
Yeah, I have them all but I use EEZOX mostly.
LIProgun
Member
Another vote for BreakFree and Eezox. I use grease too in limited applications, but have no strong preference for brand. All of the gun greases tend to be adequate.
Revolver Armorer
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FP10 Lubricant Elite
FP10 Lubricant Elite which is marketed by Shooters Choice and Muscle Products is the only way to go. Excellant rust prevention, better cleaning ability and stops rust from forming.
www.fp10.com
www.shooters-choice.com
Cannot get any better then these.
FP10 Lubricant Elite which is marketed by Shooters Choice and Muscle Products is the only way to go. Excellant rust prevention, better cleaning ability and stops rust from forming.
www.fp10.com
www.shooters-choice.com
Cannot get any better then these.
Revolver Armorer
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FP10
Funny thing Blackhawk, a lot of folks don't seem to think a given firearms oil/lubricant should prevent rust. There are a few, so called "gun lubricants" that have such poor rust prevention, your guns can be rusting inspite of a generous coat. The trend has been towards "low friction co-efficients" and high Falex Load testing without actual regards to protecting metallic surfaces against rust and corrosion protection. I would say that more guns are destroyed by lack of rust prevention then any other factor alone. FP10 is the best of both worlds. Plus FP10 smells pleasant and works like a charm. A good consistant, strong film that keeps guns working.
Funny thing Blackhawk, a lot of folks don't seem to think a given firearms oil/lubricant should prevent rust. There are a few, so called "gun lubricants" that have such poor rust prevention, your guns can be rusting inspite of a generous coat. The trend has been towards "low friction co-efficients" and high Falex Load testing without actual regards to protecting metallic surfaces against rust and corrosion protection. I would say that more guns are destroyed by lack of rust prevention then any other factor alone. FP10 is the best of both worlds. Plus FP10 smells pleasant and works like a charm. A good consistant, strong film that keeps guns working.
Revolver Armorer
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FP10 - one more thing
Oh, one more thing. FP10 will not destroy your plastic grips by etching. I have had at least one guns grips trashed by over aggessive carrier based solvents. FP10 is mild and it cleans very good.
Oh, one more thing. FP10 will not destroy your plastic grips by etching. I have had at least one guns grips trashed by over aggessive carrier based solvents. FP10 is mild and it cleans very good.
Tried many...now an FP-10 user on my Glock
I will give my two cents on being a fairly new gun owner and my experiences with cleaning.
I tried Tetra products first...brought the Degreaser, the LP, the grease and the oil. Did ok, but I had SO much to deal with.
Next went to MPro7. Cleaned very well in my opinion, but I had to then coat EVERYthing with Breakfree because it removes all the oils in your gun (surfaces and all)
Next wanted to try a CLP so I could use one product for everything (unless you have copper fouling, then use that too), and I tried Breakfree. It was ok, but it really was messy.
Finally, I read on 1911 forum and The Firing Line about FP-10. I got a sample and was hooked.
I think the best thing is that its "one stop shopping" for cleaning and lubing.
Just my feeling, but I know from trying all the current trends.
I got mine from MPC which makes the mil-spec version of FP-10 (unsure if Shooters Choice is mil-spec)
www.FP-10.com
Its really inexpensive and why not give it a try. I know I probably wasted more money on cleaning products, but its always trial and error.
I will give my two cents on being a fairly new gun owner and my experiences with cleaning.
I tried Tetra products first...brought the Degreaser, the LP, the grease and the oil. Did ok, but I had SO much to deal with.
Next went to MPro7. Cleaned very well in my opinion, but I had to then coat EVERYthing with Breakfree because it removes all the oils in your gun (surfaces and all)
Next wanted to try a CLP so I could use one product for everything (unless you have copper fouling, then use that too), and I tried Breakfree. It was ok, but it really was messy.
Finally, I read on 1911 forum and The Firing Line about FP-10. I got a sample and was hooked.
I think the best thing is that its "one stop shopping" for cleaning and lubing.
Just my feeling, but I know from trying all the current trends.
I got mine from MPC which makes the mil-spec version of FP-10 (unsure if Shooters Choice is mil-spec)
www.FP-10.com
Its really inexpensive and why not give it a try. I know I probably wasted more money on cleaning products, but its always trial and error.
Revolver Armorer
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FP-10 Muscle Products = Shooters Choice
The forumula is identical, no matter which bottle you purchase. Muscle Products informs a Canadian Police Training Office with this information. The formula is identical and Shooters Choice cannot change the formula per contract with Muscle Products. Actually, the Shooters Choice bottle is much more easy to obtain and a better quality bottle IMHO. FP-10 reduces friction by an exchange of Cations. Friction is a mechanical reaction which causes small degradation of ions in the steel (something like that) according to MPC. FP-10 is a more advanced treatment that will keep guns in better working order, clean and free of rust. Cannot ask more then that. I will be using FP-10 for a long time to come.
The forumula is identical, no matter which bottle you purchase. Muscle Products informs a Canadian Police Training Office with this information. The formula is identical and Shooters Choice cannot change the formula per contract with Muscle Products. Actually, the Shooters Choice bottle is much more easy to obtain and a better quality bottle IMHO. FP-10 reduces friction by an exchange of Cations. Friction is a mechanical reaction which causes small degradation of ions in the steel (something like that) according to MPC. FP-10 is a more advanced treatment that will keep guns in better working order, clean and free of rust. Cannot ask more then that. I will be using FP-10 for a long time to come.
Revolver Armorer
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one last thing
One last thing....... MPC manufacters and then sells the Shooters Choice FP-10 in bulk. FP-10 is then bottled in the Shooters Choice labeled bottle. Again, per contract with MPC, the formula is absolutely identical and cannot be altered by Shooters Choice via the agreement with MPC. See MPC's web site and cold weather testing results conducted by Canadian authorities.
The data mentions this and states absolutely the two formulas are exactly identical.
One last thing....... MPC manufacters and then sells the Shooters Choice FP-10 in bulk. FP-10 is then bottled in the Shooters Choice labeled bottle. Again, per contract with MPC, the formula is absolutely identical and cannot be altered by Shooters Choice via the agreement with MPC. See MPC's web site and cold weather testing results conducted by Canadian authorities.
The data mentions this and states absolutely the two formulas are exactly identical.
Firepower FP-10 vs. Shooters Choice
I agree that they are the same formulas, but I read on the 1911 forum that Firepower's FP-10 now meets Mil Spec vs. Shooters Choice.
Nevertheless, whichever FP-10 you choose will be great! I just like the MPC people; George is very informative and helpful.
www.fp-10.com : the way to go in my book!
I agree that they are the same formulas, but I read on the 1911 forum that Firepower's FP-10 now meets Mil Spec vs. Shooters Choice.
Nevertheless, whichever FP-10 you choose will be great! I just like the MPC people; George is very informative and helpful.
www.fp-10.com : the way to go in my book!
Ian Sean
Member
Any body else out there use Kroil? One of the better generic penetrating oils out there and has done wonders on some heavily fouled old guns bores I've picked up over the years.
Revolver Armorer
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FP-10 is FP-10
The only place you will get the older formula, is perhaps in a small shop that does not move gun cleaning equipment in inventory. Many of the larger distributors, police shops and gun stores tend to sell many bottles of the Shooters Choice FP-10 and are dealing fresh recently shipped oil. Go to a big store where they sell a lot and there is well over 90% you will get fresh Mil-Spec formula. Buy directly from Shooters Choice and you will get new Mil-Spec formula. I think the newer bottles have that web address, but I am not entirely sure of that?
The only place you will get the older formula, is perhaps in a small shop that does not move gun cleaning equipment in inventory. Many of the larger distributors, police shops and gun stores tend to sell many bottles of the Shooters Choice FP-10 and are dealing fresh recently shipped oil. Go to a big store where they sell a lot and there is well over 90% you will get fresh Mil-Spec formula. Buy directly from Shooters Choice and you will get new Mil-Spec formula. I think the newer bottles have that web address, but I am not entirely sure of that?
Revolver Armorer
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FP-10 vs. Molybedenum Sulfate
mattk,
The only problem with those products with Molybedenum (as I was told). In that Molybedenum Sulfate (phonetic spelling) can be an abrasive. On the other hand, Teflon type lubricants are only effective with appropriate additives. FP-10 works by actually stopping friction thru altering the metal surface charge. A small degredation of ions will occur when metal mechanically rubs against opposing surfaces. FP-10 alters and stops this small electrical force within the metal that degrades ions. It is an excellant rust preventative. Basically, Molydedenum Sulfate will probably do little to actually clean and prevent rust like FP-10 will. FP-10 also does an exceptional job of cleaning older guns and keeping new guns looking new.
mattk,
The only problem with those products with Molybedenum (as I was told). In that Molybedenum Sulfate (phonetic spelling) can be an abrasive. On the other hand, Teflon type lubricants are only effective with appropriate additives. FP-10 works by actually stopping friction thru altering the metal surface charge. A small degredation of ions will occur when metal mechanically rubs against opposing surfaces. FP-10 alters and stops this small electrical force within the metal that degrades ions. It is an excellant rust preventative. Basically, Molydedenum Sulfate will probably do little to actually clean and prevent rust like FP-10 will. FP-10 also does an exceptional job of cleaning older guns and keeping new guns looking new.
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