Advice on pistol lubricant?

[allamricn]

Inexpensive Testing

I you truly aren't sure what to use, buy small bottles of each product. I know I can buy a 1oz bottle of Breakfree, 1 oz bottle of FP-10 for about $5-6 (or less). Buy one of each, and maybe a small bottle of MPro7, small can of Tetra spray, etc. I think you can do this for under $25 or so.

Then test them. That is what I did over about 3 months time, though I probably could have done it in a shorter time period.

With MPro7, you will like that it cleans very well. Here's the rub: that's all it does. It does not lube, and it does not protect. Now you are into having 2 or more products for cleaning & lubing your gun.

With Tetra, it cleans ok, but it evaporates fast, especially on the patch. Again, I don't believe it leaves enough lube to get away with one product. Have to buy their lube/oil for that. Again, 2 products.

With Breakfree CLP, it gets close to FP-10. It cleans (not quite as) well, you can use it to wipe down your gun, and then it lubes ok. But, FP-10, in my opinion, does all those things better, way better. So, why not pay a couple bucks (and I do mean only a couple) more for the FP-10?

Remember, everyone has an opinion on 2 things in gun forums: (1) best ammunition for SD and Target
(2) best lube/cleaner

Biggest debates on here it seems!

www.fp-10.com

Best of luck

 

[romulus]

So, why not pay a couple bucks (and I do mean only a couple) more for the FP-10?

I'm a recent convert to FP-10, but in all fairness to Break Free (which served me well for a long time - still have tons left) it is about half the price. A gallon of Break Free is $44 from D&R Sports, while the Shooters Choice FP-10 is over $90. The gallon on the MPC FP-10 website hovers around $80.

 

[stevelyn]

For cleaning I'm now an MPro-7 diehard.
For recoating parts after the MPro-7 (it strips oil from the metal) Break-Free CLP.
Grease when I use it is Brownell's Action Lube Plus.

For cleaning the frame of my Glock, Cascade and Jet Dri, top rack of dishwasher, light cycle, air dry.

 

[ambidextrous1]

Interesting price comparison, Romulus. I wonder how long a gallon of gun lube would last?

Let's see where the costs of shooting are: start by pretending that we pay no range fee and just drive "out of town" and shoot )almost impossible in L.A. county, incidentally. We'll shoot a box of 9MM reloads, purchased from Ernie for $5.50. Now we go home & clean the firearm.

I doubt if the cleaning would use even $1.00 of either cleaner...

The cost difference becomes greater as the number of rounds fired increases, range fees & club dues are considered, more expensive ammunition is used, targets are used up, etc. etc.

Yeah, the stuff is expensive; but I think cost is not the best basis for choosing a gun lube; but what do I know?

 

[Revolver Armorer]

good point ambidextrous1!

That is a valid point ambidextrous1. Even if you are qualifying 20 officers each session. A 16 ounce bottle would go a long way on the range maintenance table. I would venture to say that two 16 ounce bottles would last any large metropolitian police at least 6 months. Nobody out there will use a gallon unless they owned a shooting range and everyone dipped in to the stock periodically.

 

[romulus]

Yeah, the stuff is expensive; but I think cost is not the best basis for choosing a gun lube...

I agree, Ambi, that's why I still use FP-10, with 3/4 of a gallon of Break Free left. I just added my comment for the benefit of the cost-conscious who aren't particularly picky about their lubes...

 

[ambidextrous1]

Perhaps we should start a new thread for "Most innovative uses for Break Free".

My offering: On the rocks, with a twist of lemon.

 

[matsaleh]

Pistolsmith
My favorite protection for the exterior of a pistol is silicone auto wax. It is a real chore to apply and rub out, but once applied it lasts for years under normal conditions and it really does prevent rust and corrosion. It will stay put until you remove it with a solvent.

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but here goes:

I am refinishing my Bulgarian Makarov, and I want a "stainless" look. I can't afford professional plating services right now, but I have seen pretty good results with clear Aluma-Hyde II, so I chose that route (but haven't yet applied it).

Now that you mention the above, is it reasonable to think that the silicone auto wax will protect and prevent rust on bare steel? I'm removing the blue and hand polishing the metal, and so far it looks really great, but I know I have to seal it with *something*. Will the wax do the job as well/better than the Aluma-Hyde II clearcoat?

Thanks.

 

[romulus]

Clear coat it...car wax will protect an existing finish, but will protect bare steel only marginally. The solvents in cleaners will eventually strip the wax coat. It may not rust all at once, but you will start noticing frckles and other discoloration before long.

Have it hard chromed or electroless plated as soon as you have some money....

 

[matsaleh]

Ok, thanks!

 

[Ky Larry]

I use Break Free CLP on the internal parts of my weapons and Colt T12 oil on the rails and slide on my autos. When I'm going to the range to shoot several boxes of ammo I apply a light coat of Lubriplate to the slide and rails. I use a silicon cloth for external rust protection. I know everyboby has their own pet products and techniques but IMHO the important thing is keep you weapons clean and lubed. There are many products out there and most of them will work fine. In 1938 my grandfather bought a new Winchester Model 12 shotgun. Until his death in 1974 the only lube used on it was Singer sewing machine oil. He fired 1000's of shells with it and it is still tight. FWIW.

 

[ftw46]

I am a big fan off CLP and most recently FP10 CLP. It works very well on everything. I trust it to keep all my weapons trouble free.

I also sent off for a free sample of the Miltech, and shortly after I bought an almost new taurus 85 snub nosed 38 SPL. I thought it was a little stiff so I cleaned it well and lubed it well with the Miltech. It feels like glass now. It really smoothed up all the inside workings and also gave a really slick feek to the outside also.
I will probably use FP10 for everything and finish up with a wipe of Miltech.