Ahh! First Squib STUCK in my barrel!

[TargetTerror]

I've been reloading for my 686 for a few months now, and I finally had my first squib today. OK, no big deal, I think. I remove the other rounds, take out the metal shotgun cleaning rod I keep in my range bag and try to force the bullet back out through the forcing cone. Well, that bullet wasn't having any of that! It won't budge at all!

I plan to take it to a gunsmith tomorrow, and ship it back to S&W if they don't/can't deal with it. I always thought that squibs were fairly easy to deal with. Is my situation abnormal? It is a CMJ 158 gr bullet, if that makes a difference...

 

[Thernlund]

I've never had one, but my impression is that they're a major PITA. Brass rod and wooden mallet type stuff.


-T.

 

[Sgt.Dusk]

I wouldnt use any metallic rod in removing that bullet because that would surely mess up your barrel. The CMJ bullet doesnt make any difference I've had one stuck in too.I believe its easier to get it out than full lead bullet that would squeeze only tighter with punches. But 158 needs more force in punches than 124.

I have used the tape used in hockey sticks to wrap the metallic rod
and then with force punched that stuck bullet out. I think wooden dowel would still be better. I dont think you need a gunsmith but I know that when you handle your own gun roughly it is like sticking a spike through your own heart

 

[Shooters Plus]

Depending on the type of bullet thats lodged, they can be a pain to drive out. It will take a few GOOD licks. I would opt for the brass rod and mallet as mentioned above along with a good soaking in oil. It will come out but will take some force.

Good luck

 

[glockman19]

First oil the barrel a lot, then after 10-15 min use a wooden rod and mallet it should pop right out

Shooters Plus, Great minds think alike

 

[Mike Kerr]

Its a PITA that becomes NBD (no big deal) once you know what to do and acquire just a couple of items. I hate to admit it but I once took a S&W to a gunsmith who charged me $40 to do what I have done many times since myself. Its just not that big a deal.

Every few thousand rounds you will get a squib, although if you are utilizing good techniques and relaible equipment you may go many k's of rounds between the dreaded squibs.

Anyway for revolvers with barrels 6" or under you need a "squib rod" about 8-10" long and about .20 -.25 in in diameter. Brass is great but any smooth surface metal rod will work. ( No you won't scratch the barrel becuase you wont let the squib rod do more than kiss the barrel.) You also need a small hammer 8 oz to 16 oz or a wooden mallet.

Lay the unloaded firearm on a cloth or towel on your workbench or table top - barrel facing to the right (if you are right handed). Lay your left forearm on top of the cylinder and press down to imobilize the gun. Using your left forefinger and thumb to support the squib rod and keeping the rod from scraping your barrel - slide the rod into the barrel with you right hand until it touches the lodged bullet. Hold the rod firmly againist the lodged bullet with the left hand thumb and finger while taking the hammer in your right hand and knock the bullet back out into the chamber.

Sometimes the "knock" has to become a hard whack or two (or four or five) but maintain control over the Rod rather than slaming the devil out of it on the first swing. If its a lead bullet - it will be easy. Under extereme circumstances and if it a plated or jacketed bullet then sometimes it becomes advisable to suirt a little penetrating oil in first and let it work on the bullet - then it will tap right out.

I have done this dozens of times for myself and dozens of times for others and you won't have a problem the second time becuase you will have a squib rod and a hammer. Usually the force required is about what you would use to drive a nail if you were being careful not to miss the nail head - just a firm strike.

Of course if you are not at the range but at your home or shop you may have a padded vise to secure the firearm which can simplify things if the padding really secures the gun. I have never - never scratched one of mine in removing a squib because I just get everything secure before I start.

Regards,

 

[eldon519]

I've dislodged two squib bullets, one in .45 ACP and one in .45-70. I just used a wooden dowel rod and matched the diameter as closely to the barrel's diameter as was possible. Worked like a charm both times. Use the oak rods, they're a bit tougher. Like someone mentioned some penetrating oil such as Kroil might help.

 

[C. H. Luke]

"I always thought that squibs were fairly easy to deal with. Is my situation abnormal?"


Assuming the bullet lodged just barely down the bore, you had what's called a "Dry" Squib i.e., powered by the primer alone. Primers can generate 3 to 5K Lb of pressure. Can also generally judge this by the case not having sealed against the chamber wall and being as black as if coated with "Lamp Black" inside and out.

Used to run or SO/RO many pistol matches & had a squib "Kit" in the car, all the time, as someone was sure to get one every other match or ?

What worked best, given requirement was to get the shooter back in "action" {as well as me} as quickly as possible was a set of 3 rods of different diameters and a 1 Lb hand sledge, a block of hardwood with end-grain to set bbl. against.
Rods are best made of brass but even better if of a grade suitable for machining so they will have the stiffness needed and not mushroom after much use or bend, etc. Should be long enough to travel the full length of the bbl plus about three inches for finger and thumb, then addl. length to keep hammer blows away from hand and fingers. If I had the time, wrapped a few layers of an available tape around rod an inch above muzzle so it acted like a cushion after the bullet broke free.

If you have a block of end-grain hardwood, it may be placed on any solid/hard surface, a rock or concrete, etc. and not mar up the bbl. Obviously revo's will require a longer piece if doing in the field or at home, say between bench jaws acting as "anvil" supports only.

Reason for multiple sized rods is getting the rod as close to bore size as possible. This really helps in the fast & efficient use, Dept. No chance of the rod jamming between the side-profile of the bullet and bore-wall, etc. or beating on the tip until it's blunted enough to xfer energy needed directly to the full mass of the bullet, etc. Plus the rod will weigh more and have as much mass as possible, itself.

The 1 Lb. sledge allows you to "Tap" the rod and not have to swing it like a hammer, therefore less chance of "purple Thumbs" & dinged muzzle/bbl., etc.

FWIW, once have this set-up with a quality JHP or say, JRN, about 1/2" down the bore of an auto with removable bbl, yet having a bbl hood, {like a 1911} that will wind up partially driving into the block, {there's a permanent indent in same already} can generally get most any bullet out in 3 ea. swift but steady taps.

Then it's up to the shooter to determine if he needs to run a patch & solvent thru the bore. {Almost no one ever does at matches, FWIW}

 

[confed sailor]

ah the joys of squibs

How many have I had?

1 in my nagant revolver, with 5 more stacked behind it, courtesy of a buddy of mine.

a few in my 32-20 HE S&W due to bullseye getting into the unique, same buddy too!
( no i dont let him near my reloading bench anymore.)

the important thing is to not get pissed off and remain calm, attacking your buddy with a cleaning rod is bad form. remember, if it got in there, it can come out. in the case of my nagant, a 1/4inch drill bit helps to relive the pressure, and makes it into an excellent snake shot revolver :banghead:, to its credit, not only did it not burst, it didnt bulge.

 

[JHansenAK47]

1 in my nagant revolver, with 5 more stacked behind it, courtesy of a buddy of mine.

How do you do that without a trip to the hospital. How did he not notice? Did he think he was a bad shot?

 

[jfh]

Brownell's sell squib rods in a kit or singly--

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1251&st=squib%20rod&s=

I've had one in my "big" range bag for years. That, along with the hardwood block and a small mallet / hammer take care of them handily.

Jim H.

 

[denfoote]

I wouldnt use any metallic rod in removing that bullet because that would surely mess up your barrel. The CMJ bullet doesnt make any difference I've had one stuck in too.I believe its easier to get it out than full lead bullet that would squeeze only tighter with punches. But 158 needs more force in punches than 124.

Unfortunately, I think I've already done that!!
I have a brass cleaning rod stuck in the barrel of one of my MK-IIs.
I'm gonna have to take it in to my gunsmith.

 

[TargetTerror]

Success!!!!!!!!!

THANK YOU everyone for all of your help and input! I am please to report that I have dislodged that &^%^*%$%^ing bullet from my barrel!

Here is what I did: I soaked both ends of the bullet with PB blaster repeatedly, starting last night. I bought a 3 lb sledge hammer, a 5/16 inch unspecified "hardwood" dowel, and a bamboo cutting board as a backing surface (yay Marshalls - letting me work on my guns in style!). My revolver is scoped, and I rested the end of the scope mount on the bamboo board, which I put on my makeshift workbench.

I cut the wooden dowel so it was ~2 inches out of the barrel. The wooden dowel did not work. The dowel cracked and split, and actually got wedged in the barrel. Definitely a moment, but some angry pliers brought he dowel back into line.

I have a brass section from a shotgun cleaning kit, **** is just a hair smaller than my .357 inch barrel. I would say 5-7 whacks with that from the 3 lb sledge and bullet popped out.

I definitely am giving a lot of credit to the PB blaster. I took it to my gunshop/gunsmith yesterday, and they were walking on it pretty hard with a brass rod for a while to no avail.

The bullet was a CMJ flat point, but there was still a significant amount of deformation of the bullet. it formed a cup around the edges of the brass section, which is probably what a lot of the initial whacks went towards. It also looks like the core was starting to push out of the bottom of the jacket, maybe be a 1/8 inch.

Now that I have the tools, it should be quite such a pain next time, but hopefully I won't have one again for a while!

 

[macFarlaine]

Try pouring boiling water down the barrel...

 

[rcmodel]

You shouldn't have had one at all!

I've been reloading for 45+ years and never had a squib load.

If you are having problems with squib loads, you need to carefully review your reloading practices.

You are doing something very wrong.

BTW: I have seen more squib loads and blown-up guns since the advent of Cowboy Action Shooting then in all the other shooting sports combined.

IMO: All ammo should have enough powder in it to at least get all the bullets out of the barrel reliably.

Or better yet, Cowboy Action Shooters should man-up, and compete with the same ammo power levels real cowboys used.


rcmodel

 

[eldon519]

You can get squib loads without doing anything wrong in your reloading practice. My .45-70 squib was a reloaded round that had been contaminated. How do I know? The powder came out in one big oily chunk. Rest of the box shot fine.

 

[eldon519]

I forgot to mention, if you use a hardwood dowel, it helps to wrap the end with strong tape to keep it from splintering...oops

 

[TargetTerror]

I forgot to mention, if you use a hardwood dowel, it helps to wrap the end with strong tape to keep it from splintering...oops

Life is in the details