AHHHH Case rim keeps tearing off

Status
Not open for further replies.
Stuck cases aren't always about lube.

If you have the decapping rod/expander ball adjusted improperly some dies sill either crush the neck/shoulder of the case will stick tight on the downstroke of the ram.

If you have a brand new, or freshly cleaned die, it's a good idea to lube the inside of the die before you begin sizing. If using spray lube, spray some in the die, shake off excess, and allow to dry. If using a wax or paste, apply a thin film inside with a q-tip. In a "dry" die, that light film on a lubed case will often lead to a stuck case.

I believe the Dillon Dies provide their own "stuck case remover" by using the screw in center rod.

It also pays to use the right shell holder. I've seen some cases get stuck because the shell holder wasn''t the "number spec'd, just one that was picked out of a box and used because it fit "pretty good".
 
I appreciate the input. I will try a different lube. The lubricating oil makes the cases go in very smooth and come out very smooth, it has for thousands of rounds. I just don't know why some of the case rims keep ripping off? It has only happened two or three times. I know the shellplate holder is the correct one.
 
Roll a bore brush on a lube pad.
Then clean the case necks with it.

The brush bristles will transfer just the right amount of case lube in the neck without ever putting in too much.

I started doing this with a RCBS neck brush back in 1969 ... still using the same brush ... it works well
 
If you are sticking cases, you are not lubing correctly. I've come close, but in more than 30 yrs. I have yet to stick a case, why, because I lube every case, and I use a lube that is specifically designed for reloading / case lube. The few times I've had close calls was probably because I accidentally missed a case.

Also, mechanical oils penetrate and degrade the integrity of brass also. They are not made for this application. Use some real case lube.

Application needs to be to every case, you can't safely skip bottle neck cases like that, or you'll have years of constant stuck cases.

GS
 
Alright then I will use a case lube designed specifically for reloading. Has anyone tried the homemade case lubricant. I believe it is lanolin oil and 99% alcohol?
 
Alright then I will use a case lube designed specifically for reloading. Has anyone tried the homemade case lubricant. I believe it is lanolin oil and 99% alcohol?

Don't be penny wise and pound foolish, buy some proper case lubricant like Imperial Sizing Wax or RCBS Case Lube.

A container will last a long time, I mean a loooooong time so the cost is virtually nil.

Once you learn the ropes of how proper sizing should feel, then you can fool with the home made stuff--at your own peril.
 
Why not just by some already made? It ain't like it's expensive.
The RCBS lube has been around for years and is excellent.
For the last few years I've gone mostly to the Dillon Case Lube in the pump spray bottle. Got no idea how many thousands of cases are done with a bottle of the stuff. Follow the directions, especially let the Dillon dry off to get rid of the carrier and you're good.
 
RuggedAK, I ran into the same thing a while back, had a batch of 5.56 that would stick and pull the rim off. Run them through a .380 bulge buster, it hits the last 1/2'' and brings them back into proper size. I use Lee Lube, works great and no clean up after use, just load them.
 
AHHHH Case rim keeps tearing off

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello all I have another reloading question. I just got my RCBS small base 223 sizing die back from the factory were they removed a stuck case. I also got my Dillon FL sizer die back were they surprise surprise removed a stuck case and replaced some broken parts. Anyway I got these dies back about three days ago and they now have stuck cases in them again. I have no idea why the cases keep getting their rims ripped off. I am using a good lube and this only happened once in a blue moon but lately it is a common occurence. Now both my dies are down days after I just got them back. Has anyone had case rims keep ripping off? I am using a Lee Pro 1000 if that makes any difference at all. I want to scream, curse and throw that @#@$ing press out the window. Can anyone help me with this problem?

I clean dies with a towel on a dowel, I do not remove all the 'smoothness' with chemicals drug in to reloadoing from the automotive shop, when I brake a die in I do not want to start over everyday. I do not use a lube that is on anyone's list of approved lubes.

I have helped other reloaders with problems with stuck cases, I have helped with sizing problems as in the reloader was not heavy enough for force the case into the die, problem, they spent too much time talking about their wonderful lubes to consider there was something better out there (here?).

A stuck case remover can be made from junk I prefer removing the case without rotating the puller, I straight pull.

F. Guffey
 
What about brass condition? How many times have these been loaded,fired and resized? Could they be getting weak and separating?

I suspect lube though - I got a 308 case stuck once -poor lube - order a case removal too on the internet, found one in my LGS - now I have more removal tools than I have had to remove cases.
 
I've lubed insides of case necks of bottleneck rifle cases, and I've found that it made no difference in longevity of my brass, ease of operation of the press, or measurable effect on the dimensions of the brass or the loaded rounds.

So I stopped doing it.

Tens of thousands of rounds later, I'm still not doing it.

Mostly .308 and .223, and 30-30.

Some thin-necked brass (think 32-20 or such) may require extra-special attention, and may benefit from inside lube.
 
The other "thousands" of cases you sized with this lube, were they by chance straight-walled pistol brass?

Imperial, as mentioned several times, is a great choice. For loading large numbers, I use a spray (Frankford Arsenal or Hornady) which is alcohol based, won't affect primers, does the proper job and doesn't get shoulders dented or cases stuck.

You may also want to ensure your using the proper dies and cases. You may want to invest in a stuck case remover. I've used mine once on a case I forgot to lube.
 
I switched to Dillon spray on lube quite a long time ago, and even with that I've not had a stuck case. Many reloaders complain that the spray on lube, DCL and One Shot causes problems.

$8 for DCL, and it lubes about 4 thousand cases, actually it's got to be more than that, now that I think about it. But I don't use it in the same fashion as it's intended, I use a Q tip to apply it, and it stretches it about 10 times longer. Plus by applying it with a Q tip, it get applied to only the brass, rather than wasting it on the surface the brass is placed on.

GS
 
A Q-Tip?
OMG!

Just dump the cases in a mixing bowl, spritz them with spray lube, the stir them around with your hand.

Then wipe off all you can with your hand as you pick them up to size them.

The thin film of lube left is the perfect amount you want left.

You are wasting absolutely no excess lube doing it that way.

Except what little you wipe off on your pants when your hand gets too greasy to pick up cases and rub all the lube off you can!

rc
 
I believe it is lanolin oil and 99% alcohol?

I have a reloading book that goes back a few years (1955), the author said he used lanolin all the time, he said his hands hurt, with lanolin he said his hands hurt less, SO? When sharing his experience with reloading he said he use the lanolin on his hands as a lube. I am going with the old reloader/shooter. Cutting lanolin 1 to 100 is to much of a jump.

F. Guffey
 
I think he meant 99% alcohol content, ie stuff that's only 1% water as opposed to the normal 70/30.

Yes, lanolin and alcohol is pretty much what you get with some of the best sizing lubes on the market.
 
It's not the press, it's not the dies. It's improper lubrication, plain and simple. Hard to beat the old RCBS lube and pad. Imperial sizing lube, Lee lube, and even Hornady One Shot will work for you if used properly. I've removed stuck cases for people myself, it's not that hard to do. I bet there's YouTube videos that could walk you through it.
str1
 
Well thanks everyone for the help I have ordered some Dillon case lube. I got the case out of the die. I really love that built in stuck case remover on Dillon 223 FL sizing dies. I went ahead and resized some more cases using the other lubricant and everything is going smooth as silk now. I think I just had a few cases with bad rims on them. Again thanks for the help everyone. I am pretty sure I will be asking more question about different things here to come.
 
Well thanks everyone for the help I have ordered some Dillon case lube.

This is the best thing you can do. After over 40 years of reloading, I've come to the conclusion of using two good case lubes. Imperial Wax for small batches and Dillon case lube for large batches.

In the 1970's I took the RCBS case lube and pad and deposited them both in the trash where they belonged. Never regretted doing it.
 
Assuming you're using the correct shell plate/shell holder, anytime the rim is torn off a case when sizing, it's due to improper lubrication, pure and simple.
str1
 
I have ordered some Dillon case lube.

If you have ordered the Dillon spray on lubricant, make sure you give the carrier solvent enough time to flash off (aka dry).

Otherwise, you will continue to stick cases.

The lubricant works well for case sizing, the solvent does not.
 
223/556 sizing on my Dillon 550 with Dillon case lube is near effortless. Extremely easy handle pull. You can hardly feel any resistance.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top