Alaska with an FAL... because that's what I've got

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In reference to the earlier Alaska thread I started, suppose your only centerfire is a DSA FAL. Bloody accurate rifle for a FAL (and better than some bolt actions) that I've shot groups under an inch with at 100 yards.
What loads would I want to look at to make the FAL the best it can be until I can get something a little better suited?
What handloads will I want to try? What bullets are going to work as well as possible? I'm thinking 165 or 180 are probably as heavy as I can go in this rifle.
 
Knowing how and at what the gun will be shot is probably more relevant to your question than where.
 
I've never been to Alaska, although I've always wanted to go. Still, I hear that it can get pretty cold up there. Is that going to be an issue?

I'm asking because you asked about loads and some popular powders are pretty sensitive to temps. Working up a load where it's in the 80s could leave you with a load that doesn't quite do what you want it to when you get up there. 4064, for example.

In in south Louisiana where the temps range from the 100s to snowing (on occassion) and I've found Varget and Reloader 15 to work pretty well, although I've never tried either in really cold temps.

I'd advise that you start with a bullet that will function reliably in your rifle and go from there.

If you've never been in the very cold with your rifle, you may also want to do some checking up on the effects of the cold on your chosen lube. I've talked at the range with some guys that have gone to Alaska when it's cold and some of them talked of lessons learned using certain lubes (especially grease) in auto loaders.

Like I said, I've never been. Just offering some food for thought.
 
Thanks. I'm from PA, so it gets cold, but Alaska gets a whole different kind of cold. I'm sure there will be some experimentation needed to figure out what works best. For feeding, this rifle has been reliable with all SP and other pointed nose rounds I've tried in it. I think anything will more than less feed through it, but I'd load a test batch first to be sure.
As for what I'm shooting at - consider it a stand-in hunting rifle that may also be used as self defense against an angry critter.
It's not as good as a .375 H&H... but it's paid for and it's what I've got.
It's not as well suited as a scoped sporter... but it's paid for and what I've got.
It's kind of heavy... but it's paid for...

So that's essentially my situation.
 
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Well, .308 in the 160 - 180 range will do for all your needs. You might want for something a bit larger diameter in brown bear country but considering 30-06 is the most common rifle caliber in the State, you won't be far off what plenty of experienced Alaskans rely on. If you feel you need more for big bear, a Mossberg 500 and Brenekke slugs won't set you back too much and will certainly be effective for defensive use.

I am not sufficiently familiar with the FAL to opine whether it will be reliable in extremely cold temperatures, but it wasn't exactly tropical in the Falklands and it has seen Arctic service with the Brits, so it should be fine.

As to powder, I would suggest Varget. I'm a fan and use it for everything from 6.5x55 through 30-30 and 30-06. It's an "extreme" powder and as such much less sensitive to temp and humidity swings. http://www.hodgdon.com/smokeless/extreme/page2.php#top 308 loads are available on Hogdon's site. I don't load 308, so I can't speak authoritatively on that cartridge, but I have found that Varget, which is somewhat faster burning, seems to work best in shorter barrels 18 - 20" and a grain or so short of max published.
 
Use the loads that your getting the 1 inch groups with.

When it get s C O L D open your gas regulator a a vent or two and carry on.

I had an inch pattern FAL I used to shoot year round, fairly accuratly. Gave it to my son.
 
Well at least the .308 is a legitimate hunting round compared to some other AR calibers folks want to take up to Alaska. Even with that, it falls short of the recommended 3000 ft-pds of muzzle energy for bear defense, but it outpaces the .44 magnum lots of folks carry.
 
I would also consider a Nosler Partition or a Barnes TSX bullet both in 180+ grain load. For Critter defense, its going to end up closer versus farther, and going off the 45-70, heavier and slower is probably going to pay greater dividends for critter defense up in Alaska. You want something that is going have enough penetration to reach and destroy vitals.

Don't get too caught up on muzzle energy as an end of itself. a 125gr .308 bullet might exceed 3000ft-lb at the muzzle, but it is a marginal choice versus a bear.
 
Thanks.
I will state that I know there are better choices for pure defense, or even for hunting. But this is what I've got, I can't afford to replace it, I don't want to sell a proven and loved rifle to buy one that I don't "know," and if push comes to shove it just might have to do until I can afford a scoped bolt action.
I might try something with 748 just because that's what I have on hand right now.
 
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I have harvested every critter up here with a 7x57mm Mauser, using old 1970s bullets... Old steel jacketed Norma bone blasters in some cases....

A 308 works just fine in the hands of a real hunter/rifleman. Use Nosler Partitions, A-frame Partitions or Norma Dangerous game bullets.

Stalking skills, Shot placement, shot placement, shot placement and lastly, shot placement....
 
Run what you brung... nothing wrong with that. What I would do is get some 180 grain pills and play with different loads, and see what you get the best groups with. I would think you would want to go with the heavier bullets so as to be able to handle big game the best.

My uncle in Alaska used to moose hunt with a .308, and he always did fine. I certainly wouldn't anticipate any reliability issues, as the FAL is one of the most reliable firearm designs ever made. Mostly you just need to be able to hit with it, from field positions. Practice practice practice. You need to be the guy people always talk about when they say watch out for the man with just one gun... he might know how to use it! ;)
 
I don't look at it as twenty rounds.
I look at is one round stop my prey, nineteen extra rounds to stop me from being prey. ;)

As for the marksmanship, I will need a little practice on that. Haven't shot her much the last few years but I'm hoping to have a little time to get reacquainted with her in the next couple weeks. For what it's worth, her name is Mathilda. I also call her my hammer - figuring that if I hit just about any problem with her a few times it will probably cease to be a problem.

But I have no doubt that the rifle will do the job. It shot very well with the old SA surplus and does just fine with the Lithuanian I have now, and with my handloads. I just need to lay hands on some tougher bullets, work up a load, and re-zero.
 
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Actually, I think that is a great choice. I've always said (you can look it up) that I wouldn't feel comfortable in Grizzly country with anything less than my FAL. 20 rounds of fast-firing 7.62 NATO is a whole lot more comforting to me than one or two of anything that recoils like a dump truck.

Mine also shoots MOA, but it is a HB and they are known to be a bit more accurate. Weight doesn't matter, I'd still want it with me.
 
Thanks. I'm from PA, so it gets cold, but Alaska gets a whole different kind of cold. I'm sure there will be some experimentation needed to figure out what works best. For feeding, this rifle has been reliable with all SP and other pointed nose rounds I've tried in it. I think anything will more than less feed through it, but I'd load a test batch first to be sure.
As for what I'm shooting at - consider it a stand-in hunting rifle that may also be used as self defense against an angry critter.
It's not as good as a .375 H&H... but it's paid for and it's what I've got.
It's not as well suited as a scoped sporter... but it's paid for and what I've got.
It's kind of heavy... but it's paid for...

So that's essentially my situation.
Click to expand...
Not sure why you're worried about severe cold as far as a bear gun. They go nappy in the winter, remember? As far as other game, just don't go hunting when it's -40. I sure don't.
 
Not sure why you're worried about severe cold as far as a bear gun. They go nappy in the winter, remember? As far as other game, just don't go hunting when it's -40. I sure don't.
Click to expand...

LOL
 
Only mentioned that because someone else brought up function in extreme cold. In "normal" cold I know my rifle is just fine.:cool:
 
Normal cold in some parts of Alaska is -40 degrees. Fairbanks, it is -60 or -70 degrees "normally" in the mid winter.
 
What do you mean "Alaska"? What part of the state? What time of year? What will you be doing?

As a trail gun if you can haul that heavy chunk of steel around through the crud, you're a manly man fresh from the RLI! How far have you hiked with it so far? As a fishing gun, again the weight and bulk is a factor. As a cabin gun it's fine though expect it to pick up a nice coat of rust. As a hunting rifle it's bulky and depending on the GMU may be ill-suited. As a range piece there's no problem at all. I'd suggest toting it for a few ten mile hikes and seeing how you feel about it then. I've fallen out of love with many rifles that way ;-)

But will it deal with a bear? I don't doubt it. Just use 180 or so deep penetrating HP's. There's plenty of premium .308 hunting ammo that would work.
 
Cosmoline - I'm in agreement with the many criticisms. But it's what I have and this move is scheduled to happen before the end of the month.
I'd love a stainless Ruger Scout, but it just ain't in the budget right now.
 
As for brushing up on your marksmanship, I don't know where you are in the state, but if you can make it to Chugiak, there are a couple Appleseed shoots scheduled there this year. One is coming up in a couple weeks. http://www.appleseedinfo.org/search-states.php?filter=AK&statename=Alaska

Appleseed is a great program -- they are absolutely the best at teaching the fundamentals of rifle marksmanship from field positions. The course is based around the Army Qualification Test, so it is always fun to see how you stack up on that. You will fit right in with your FAL -- there will be lots of other guys there sporting battle rifles I'm sure. It only costs $70 for the weekend. It is money well spent, I promise. Along with the marksmanship, they tell some really good Revolutionary War history. There is no better way to spend a weekend.
 
I just read in the other thread you're headed for Kotzebue. That's going to be quite an experience. You'll be fine with the FAL. Worry more about swinging by CostCo in Anchorage en route and getting mass quantities of TP, toothpaste, condensed milk, etc etc. Are you going to have a four wheeler there? Snow machine?
 
Cosmoline - probably not. At least not right away. There are a lot of things I haven't got worked out yet and that I'm not sure I can work out until I'm on the ground. I've been told by many to pack food in addition to warm clothing... but there is only so much a guy can carry.
 
Seriously, just pack it in totes and get it on the jet anyway you can, even paying those outrageous fees. Or mail it to yourself from the airport post office. Whatever you have to pay on shipping, it's worth it. There are restrictions on booze into the bush, but thankfully you can take enormous amounts of TP and ramen. You will be shocked by the prices at the stores out in the bush.

Ironically you are LESS likely to be hassled by wildlife up there than you are down here in Anchorage. There have been some incidents with musk ox, but nothing too serious. And people let their danged dogs run all over biting people. But bear ambushes are something you're more likely to have in Anchorage than K-Bue.

Most people overdo the warm clothes and don't bring enough basic supplies. The key with clothing is just to layer poly wool blends and stay clear of cotton for the winter months. One set of ultra cold outer clothes should be sufficient, along with some good long johns. Most of the time you'll be fine in basic fleece with a wind shell, bala and good gloves and boots. The boots matter more than the socks. In fact a lot of people overdo the socks and end up with a cheap boot full of tightly-packed socks--negating their insulating value. You want insulated boots with a little air space and a wool sock. My hierarchy is insulated leather to -10f, then switch to mickey mouse boots then in real cold go to the "bunny" white surplus boots with fleece pulled over the tops. For gloves I'm liking the lined leather down to -20 or so and below that switching to a heavier mitten with liner. There are some places in Anchorage that carry good quality stuff.
 
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