Alternative to Winchester 296

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seddons

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I have been loading all my .357 and .44 magnum loads with Winchester 296, I have no problem with the performance but, it is such a fine powder that it leaves a huge mess on my reloading bench and needless to say, I do not like all the unfired powder all over the place. I do not have this issue with any of the other powders I use (unique, bullseye auto comp ect.) Is there a more course ball powder that will give me similar results to the 296?
 
I use 296 in all my revolvers; .30, .357, .41, .44, .45C, .454, .480, and for .50ae. I do get a little on the bench but it's not enough to cause any concern. The sole reason I use 296 is because it burns cleanly. My pistol powder choices are based solely on them burning clean. I don't have the experience with multiple powders like most of you guys. If there is a cleaner burning powder for pistols I'd love to know. In fact, the only other handgun powders I've used are TrueBlue and Longshot. I have those on hand for the auto loaders. These powder choices were made with the input of a friend of mine that has been reloading handgun and rifle loads for well over 30 years. I trust his input on this but also realize no one knows everything.
 
I have been using a lot of 2400 in my Magnum loads, both .44 Magnum and 357 Magnum. I tried W296/H110, but at the time didn't care for the "tight" load window. I've used a lot of different powders in my 44s as I've reloaded everything from 123 gr balls to 310 LRNFP. Unique, Universal, True Blue and Blue Dot got used a lot too......
 
I really like AA #9 and N-110 in .44 Mag, and 2400 in .357 Mag, but AA #9 is pretty fine as well. maybe not as fine as W-296, but I don't remember for sure. It doesn't leak in my 10X.

As posted, 2400 and 4227 shouldn't leak, and N-110 is also in that category.

2400 is a very short stick powder and N-110 is a short stick powder. 4227 is also a stick powder, a bit longer than N-110.

Welcome to THR.
 
Welcome and hope this helps.
Lilgun is slightly larger but is unloved by revolver people.
4227 appears to be a small cylinder
Bluedot is a heavy flake.
I don't have 2400 or 300mp
 

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Enforcer is another choice, a very small ball but not flattened like W-296. It should leak less, or maybe none at all. I like it in 300 BLK.
 
The powder is leaking out of the powder drop after I remove the case, several grains (actual grains, not a weight measure) fall out. I use a Lee auto-drum powder measure and if I were to guess the fine granules of 296 are sitting on the mouth of the case and fall out when the case exit’s the die. Probably not a big deal to most people but, I usually load 750 - 1,000 rounds at a time and the spilt powder really starts accumulating after a while. Thanks all for the recommendations and I will look into all the options listed and decide which one to try next. Thanks again
 
How about Alliant 300MP?

From same/comparable powders thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-different-labels.797388/page-6#post-10727894

- Winchester W296/H110 and Alliant 300MP
- Winchester W296/H110 and Vectan Ba6 1/2
- Winchester W296/H110 and Vihtavuori N110

I would say 300-MP depends on barrel length. It has been my experience that in a 5" barrel you won't see any advantage over 2400 or N-110, except it does meter very well. If a 10" or longer barrel, 300-MP really shines.

My top choices for my 5" 357mag revolver are 2400 and N-110. For my 16" 357mag Rossi, 300-MP and 158gn jacketed are my go-to components. I have not had the chance yet to try Enforcer in 357, but it does work very well for me in 44mag.

And I only use standard primers, not magnum, for 300-MP, 2400, and N-110.
 
The powder is leaking out of the powder drop after I remove the case, several grains (actual grains, not a weight measure) fall out. I use a Lee auto-drum powder measure and if I were to guess the fine granules of 296 are sitting on the mouth of the case and fall out when the case exit’s the die. Probably not a big deal to most people but, I usually load 750 - 1,000 rounds at a time and the spilt powder really starts accumulating after a while.

Sounds like a cheap powder measure issue and not a powder issue. If one is loading 750-1000 rounds at a time, and is planning on continuing to do so, I would think a better powder measure would be a wise investment.
 
Sound like you need to fix the fit from dispenser to brass. This is where a PTX would help since it goes inside the case mouth and not around the outside. Need to have square edge on the funnel set on the mouth to prevent it from collecting there.
 

Thanks DD, that's an interesting way to look at powder. FWIW 2400 is closest chemically to WW296 based on the mass spec charts. I'm not really sure if that means anything, just pointing out the comparison.
 
I remove the case, several grains (actual grains, not a weight measure) fall out. I use a Lee auto-drum powder measure and if I were to guess the fine granules of 296 are sitting on the mouth of the case and fall out when the case exit’s the die.
A different "funnel" would solve that. I am not familiar with the set up, but there may be a way to change it out to one that does not let the powder land on the case mouth. Got pics?
 
.

2400 is a very short stick powder ... 4227 is also a stick powder..

That tells you how good my memory is... and how long it's been since I've used those powders. :D

OP, trying a different powder regardless... maybe work with your powder drop a bit with some emery cloth, or very carefully with a drill bit (handheld) and you can smooth that funnel out. The little bit I work with W296 I get a wee bit of powder dust, but nothing like you are seeing.
 
If you have opportunity to get kernels (less confusing than "grains) which stall on the case mouth, it's a simple change to your set up.

If you're using the AutoDrum on a press, I expect you're using the Lee charging die. The die should be set such the case mouth is touching the inverted funnel - this ensures the powder falls in the center of the case mouth. For the wide mouthed 44mag, this is fool proof. HOWEVER, there IS one problem in the die body - there's a "step" above the centering funnel in the die body, so the powder falls from the Autodrum drop tube into the die, and can hang on this "lip" around the perimeter of the die.

The solution is simple, give the die a couple quick wraps with a hammer handle at the top of the charging stroke. OR, if you're careful, either give a double bump, or a sharp "bump" to the ram handle to shake the press a bit. It all just becomes a part of your reloading sequence - just part of your cadence. I picked up an AutoDrum a bit over a year ago, have loaded thousands of rounds of H110 with it.

If you're loading on the bench with a funnel, same deal, just give the funnel a quick wrap before you remove it.
 
296 is my far and away favorite magnum handgun powder but it is a bit of a pain to clean up due to how fine and staticy it is. I put a squirt of powdered graphite into each jug and shake it up which really helps with the static. 2400 is a good powder that is very easy to deal with as well due to the large kernel size.
 
I use home made powder funnels for dropping powder.

I use this one for 9MM and up pistol calibers. (Turned over of course. :D)
9mm & Up Powder Drop Bushing Pic 2.JPG
 
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