Aluma-Hyde paint - Does it last?

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carlosmaurixio

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I've been asking too many unrelated questions on one thread so I decided to spread the post out.

I was wondering if anyone here has tried the Aluma-Hyde paint from Brownells. I am trying to redo the barrel and receiver from a Mauser 98. I am looking for an economical coat that will last a while on a weekend shooter rifle.

What is an appropriate way to prepare (polish?) the metal before painting so that the paint sticks and looks decent?

Thanks
 
Thanks for that link I will keep following it for an answer. I am also going to look into Gunkote, although it looks like I would need to buy a sprayer for that paint.
 
For your purpose, I would recommend the GunKote. You can get it in a spray can too if you don't have an airbrush. Surface prep is the key, but strip everything down good and degrease thoroughly (don't even touch the metal afterwards or your fingerprint will prevent a bond).

Warm the parts in an oven at 100 degrees (this also makes sure any solvents evaporate completely), apply several LIGHT coats, air dry for at least 15 minutes, then bake in the oven at 300 degress for > 1 hour.

I use aluminum foil and/or wire and a cookie sheet to support the part so that nothing is in contact with the gunkote while baking.
 
AlumaHyde II works very well and is quite durable. I treated this 10/22 to olive drab green two years ago and it is holding up beautifully. As stated above, prep work is critical. I prepped mine in a blast cabinet with aluminum oxide, then heavily degreased with acetone and Brownells' degreaser. Followed the instructions with several light coats and let the parts cure for two weeks before reassembly.

9IMG_0761b.jpg
 
I've done a few barrels and some small parts in Aluma Hyde II. Preparation is important, bead blast or strip old paint and clean, clean, clean. I warm the paint and shake it for 10-15 minutes. Parts are warmed with a heat gun (hair dryer). You need to apply four or five very light coats, flash each coat with a heat gun, then apply a medium finial coat and allow to dry in a warm area for five to seven days for air dry. The warmer the drying area the shorter the dry time. I get a smooth, uniform finish that is as bullet proof as any thing I have seen. If you handle the parts to soon it effects the appearance of the finish.

Brownells has some vids and so does youtube.

Edit. That 10/22 looks nice CraigC
 
One last question... How long can the barrel be left at bare metal without it starting to rust? I got excited and went ahead and started cleaning the barrel/receiver up but have yet to get the paint... doh!
 
Love the stuff very durable if prepped right, sprayed right, and above all allowed to full cure!
 
carlosmaurixio said:
One last question... How long can the barrel be left at bare metal without it starting to rust? I got excited and went ahead and started cleaning the barrel/receiver up but have yet to get the paint... doh!
Click to expand...
Inside your home it well not be a problem. I have parts here on my bench that have been bare steel for months and no sign of rust. There can be exceptions. Some people have a high salt content in the skin oils that may cause rust were it's handled.
 
Sigh of relief...

Nonetheless, I am prepping the barrel and receiver but it is taking too long. I am using cloth sand paper or what ever it's called. Using 220 for starters, but have 320, 400, and 600 laying aside to use progressively. Is this an OK method? I am doing the same for the bolt action, but that will remain uncoated and hopefully will have a nice polish.
 
Yes, it is correct to work down through the progressive grits to get to what you want. Sometimes it helps to use light oil while "sanding". Make sure to get it all off before trying to apply the finish.
 
You don't want a fine polish on anything that is to be coated. Probably no finer than 220grit. The coating needs a good surface to hold onto. The finer the polish, the more likely it is to lift off.
 
Ive painted a bunch of stuff with Aluma Hyde II and all I ever did was degrease everything well. I never sanded a thing. Did it over finished wood too with no troubles.

The biggest thing is to degrease everything well, including your hands while youre handling things, and then follow the directions to the letter. Fight the urge to touch it while it cures (its a lot harder than you think :) )and leave it be for at least a week.

Make sure you have things set up before you start, and figure how you will hang things and have the hangers on the parts "before" you start to paint. Make sure they are secure too. You dont want them falling off the hangers before they are done.
 
Painted a 1911 frame with Aluma-hyde II. No access to a blast cabinet, so I prepped the metal with sandpaper.

008.jpg

Probably 2k rounds through it since then. The only wear has been on the feed ramp and rails which I didn't prep, and a few chips on the inside of the mag well.

On any non-heavy wear part it will last forever.
 
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I put another 500rds through the above-pictured 10/22 the other day and noted that even on high wear parts like the trigger, the finish is still fully intact.
 
OP,
I've had good luck with AH II also. I've found that two weeks plus is best to let it cure before doing anything with the part.
FWIW
YMMV
 
i like duracoat or guncote. you can spray it and assemble the next day not next payday. same thing, prep, prep, prep. i use steel wool and 600 grit paper. you can check my post and see the ones ive done. if it will fit in a oven i use kg otherwise i use durakote. better color choice from durakote
 
Magazines ?

I Cleaned the duck tape residue off a couple of surplus M1A mags I got for Nothing. But after removing all that goop and rust I am looking for somthing to protect or redo the finish. do you think this would be worth painting?
 
I think youre going to find that the Aluma Hyde will wear off at the contact points when you insert and remove them. The body will probably be OK otherwise, but mags tend to take a beating and will probably eventually get chips and dings in them. Then again, I dont know what wont.

I painted an AK with it, and even after letting it cure, the selector "arc" was soon back where you always see it.

Personally, if they're rough, I'd bead blast them and have them parked.
 
I was just thinking that since a magazine is flexable it probably would flake off too. Ive recently retired and find I have less money so now im trying to do my own fixes latley, and keep out of my wifes way. Is there any repituable and economical place to send off parts to get Park?
 
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