Am I cleaning my gun wrong with Hoppes and CLP?

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DefiantDad

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I just want to be sure I am not doing anything wrong and screwing up the barrel.

First, I soak a patch in Hoppes 9 and push it through the bore, toward the muzzle. One way only.

Then I twist and push a brass brush through the same way, one way, one time.

Then I push and twist clean patches through until they are somewhat clean.

Then I spray CLP over the whole barrel, inside and out. And wipe away the excess on the outside.

Then I push cleaning patches through the bore again until they look clean.

Then I look through the barrel, and pretty much every time it looks smooth and clean.

That's basically my routine for my guns.

Comments?
 
I also dot a few spots of oil (Hoppes oil) on the parts that I can see and reach, on the receiver, and grease the slide, then reassemble.
 
Defiantdad, you only mentioned your procedure for the barrel. I hope the rails and other moving parts get a drop or two of that CLP too when you clean. Wipe off the powder residue and dirty oil and re-lube and you'll be fine.
 
Hi - yes I try to oil the moving parts but I can't really see all the parts without entirely stripping the gun(s), and not confident to do that, so it is whatever joints and moving parts that I can see.
 
you are ok. clean and oil what you can and it will be fine. i been using #9 and clp for many mango seasons. the big thing is to do some type of cleaning/oiling.
 
You need to give the bore solvent time to work. Solvents work by a chemical action and that takes some time.
Solvents like Hoppe's can be left in the bore indefinitely with no harm. Some more aggressive solvents may damage the bore if left in for more then 30 minutes.
READ THE LABEL.

After brushing, run one or two soaked patches through the bore and allow to soak while you clean the rest of the gun.
After soaking 30 minutes or so run a clean soaked patch through and look for any green or blue stains that indicate copper fouling.
If you see any, depending on what the bottle says, you may need to let it soak longer.
When you get a patch out with no stains, run a patch through to dry then run a patch with CLP through to coat the bore, and a dry patch after that to remove the excess.

To many people make the mistake of running a solvent patch through then immediately run dry patches. That simply doesn't give the solvent time to attack and remove the copper fouling.
 
Ooops, thanks. I may be guilty of not reading instructions this time (ironically, rare for me). Will check the bottle again.
 
OK thanks. I am using the stuff from Brian Enos right now to grease the slide rails.
 
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