Anchoring gun safe to concrete slab

[ky_man]

Anyone care to share how they anchored their gun safe/RSC?

I have a sentry 16-gun safe with two holes for concrete anchors at the bottom. What is a good depth to drill into my slab? I assume it is at least 6-8" thick (1950's house), but I cannot tell. I have floor drains, under-floor plumbing if that helps determine a safe distance to drill. I do not believe any plumbing work is in the corner of my house where I want to locate the safe.

My concern is that the safe could tip and fall. I have two young kids and although I realize that anchoring the safe will not prevent a loss it may at least slow a criminal down.

I'm thinking 3/8" x 1 1/2 - 2" redhead sleeve anchors would do the trick. Thoughts?

 

[harmonic]

If that's your concern (re tipping over) then drill a hole in the back and bolt it to a wall stud. It's a very easy process and is what I did. Much easier to repair than anchoring in the slab.

 

[Quigley]

I have a friend that secured a log chain to his 50 gun and built the end into the exterior wall. In the event of a fire he can chain saw or sledge hammer a hole exposing the end and hook a vehicle to the chain and pull his safe out onto the lawn.

 

[WoofersInc]

Stop by Home Depot or Lowe's. In the fastener/bolt section they will have Redhead concrete anchors. Drill the appropriate sized hole and place the anchors as directed on the packaging. Both of my safes are done his way and they will not tip over or move without something big like a forklift being involved. I did however make it so that there were four anchor holes to add additional security. The bottoms of most of these safes can be drilled fairly easily.

 

[Mackinac76]

My new safe came with two holes in the bottom and I drilled two additional holes in the back. Since it's on a poured floor and against a poured wall, I used anchor inserts in the concrete used grade 8 bolts for the attachments. While I'm sure that it could be defeated, I do enjoy the peace of mind knowing it's anchored.

 

[Nobody's_Hero]

I have a friend that secured a log chain to his 50 gun and built the end into the exterior wall. In the event of a fire he can chain saw or sledge hammer a hole exposing the end and hook a vehicle to the chain and pull his safe out onto the lawn.

Has he got a patent on that? I must say that sounds like a great idea.

 

[barnetmill]

" I assume it is at least 6-8" thick (1950's house), "

Now days a slab is nominally 4 inches in thickness. If I was going to anchor to the slab permanently I would break an eight inch hole (You will likely have to cut some mesh.
Drill a hole in bottom of safe and place a long 5/8" bolt through the safe floor. Take a post hole digger and godown 2.5 to 3.5 ft. below level of slab. Pore ready mix concrete into the hole. Place safe over hole and push the bolt down. Wait 24 hrs and finger tighten nut and washer over the bolt. Ten day later torque the safe down.

 

[Citroen]

Follow the instructions on the bolts

I used concrete anchor bolts to anchor a large upright air compressor in my concrete garage floor. Same basic principle. When I bought the bolts (at Home Depot) the package has instructions on drilling the hole.

The upright air compressor is quite heavy and is solidly mounted now. An upright gun safe should be the same. My gun safe is a horizonal model; my home is not built on a slab.

John
Charlotte, NC

 

[scottfrmga]

most rental places have hammer drills for rent, the one you need to drill the anchor holes is not cheep, and they can tell you how to do it and what anchors you will need

 

[jkingrph]

Folks that sold me the safe, a 72" tall 27"wide Winchester suggested bolting it to slab since it is in a corner of my garage. Even though it about 1800 lbs empty, he said he has seen where some of our oilfield roughnecks have picked up safes and threw them into their trucks and gone.

He drilled and installed 4 anchors.

 

[sam1952]

Now days a slab is nominally 4 inches in thickness. If I was going to anchor to the slab permanently I would break an eight inch hole (You will likely have to cut some mesh.
Drill a hole in bottom of safe and place a long 5/8" bolt through the safe floor. Take a post hole digger and godown 2.5 to 3.5 ft. below level of slab. Pore ready mix concrete into the hole. Place safe over hole and push the bolt down. Wait 24 hrs and finger tighten nut and washer over the bolt. Ten day later torque the safe down.

+1 I like this idea.

 

[aerod1]

I just used concrete anchors (quick bolts) on mine.

 

[a1abdj]

A regular hammer drill (you can rent if you don't own), and some common $2 sleeve anchors are all you need. Place the safe, drill from inside, drive your anchors, and bolt it down.

If you were installing a 4,000 pound ATM machine with a 1" solid floor, then pouring a pier below the slab might make sense. Since most gun safes are using 1/10" or 1/8" steel floors, then the regular anchors are more than enough.

I'm going to bolt a gun safe down this Thursday. If I remember to take the camera I'll take some photos showing the process.

 

[Charles Foxtrot]

Dynabolts: Bigger diameter 3/8 - 1/2 and longer the better.

Back when I worked with the tools as an industrial electrician Dynabolts were the only choice. We'd anchor multi-panel distribution centers: literally tons of copper, metal, and breakers. Several engineered jobs required Dynabolts.

Rent a hammer drill and a good bit and have fun. But don't drill THROUGH your slab. That spalls out the slab bottom and ruins the holding. Use very heavy and big washers and tighten the snot out of the bolt.

Luck.

 

[answerguy]

Even though it about 1800 lbs empty, he said he has seen where some of our oilfield roughnecks have picked up safes and threw them into their trucks and gone.

Just how many guys did it take to do that?

 

[ceetee]

Just how many guys did it take to do that?

Just one... but he was Chuck Norris' younger brother.

Kidding. Sounds to me also like cutting out the whole floor and digging out for pilings is quite a lot of work to do for very little increased security. Good anchors, or even all-thread epoxied in place should be stronger that the floor of the safe you're bolting down.

 

[barnetmill]

Just how many guys did it take to do that?

Just one... but he was Chuck Norris' younger brother.

"Kidding. Sounds to me also like cutting out the whole floor and digging out for pilings is quite a lot of work to do for very little increased security. Good anchors, or even all-thread epoxied in place should be stronger that the floor of the safe you're bolting down."

I said an eight inch hole and not "cutting out the whole floor and digging out for pilings".

The reason I suggested a pier or column underneath was to make it difficult for someone with a tow truck or other device that can thrust a crane into a dwelling and connect a winch cable. A four inch slab is not really that strong. Most slabs are thinner and I notice that the new one in my area are not even using mesh (the have fibers mixed to take the place of steel mesh). Attachment to a concrete column will make a winched out safe a lot harder to handle. I have heard of safes being taken out of stores with tow trucks so the robbers could crack them at their leisure elsewhere. Automated tellers are often taken with heavy machinery. Never let repair men and even you neighbors know about your safe. Especially your children's friends.

The sad thing is no matter how strong your safe there are people that can get into it if they think it is worth their while. I read at another forum if they can not see it they can not steal it. In a visible safe it is better to to only put your working guns. Those guns that are going to not be used should hidden behind special wall panels in a dry area or something similar for storage.

 

[Lazuris]

Go rent a Hilit hammer drill at Home Depot. Also buy concrete lags. Drill the slab, install lags, done. DO NOT EVER DRILL SAW CUT OR HAMMER A POST TENSION SLAB. If you do video tape it first because i've always wanted to see the slab come apart.

 

[CryingWolf]

It's fairly easy to do floor anchors. I don't think you need anything that goes super deep. Drop-ins are one of the easiest. The importaint thing here is not to drill through the floor. You may have to rent a roto hammer / hammer drill if you don't have or can get access to one.

If this was a question always coming up I would do a video of the ones I do at work.

 

[green-grizzly]

I used lead concrete anchors. They were a lot easier to use than steel ones.

 

[PTK]

Make sure it's not prestressed concrete or you're going to cause lots of damage.

Also, a properly installed gun safe (not RSC) won't tip, regardless of being bolted or not.

 

[Sir Aardvark]

If you are going to use the redhats on a heavy safe, then you can drill the hole deeper than it is supposed to be, that way you can pound the screws into the hole if you ever need to move the safe.

You can also use lag bolts inserted into a sleeve. This leaves you the option of just unscrewing the lag bolts if you need to move the safe. You do need to drill a bigger hole for the sleeve than you would for the redhats.

You don't have to use a hammer drill if you don't have access to one, but it certainly makes the job easier, just go slow and frequently withdraw the bit to remove the dust.
The one thing you need for sure is a masonry drill bit - these have a tungsten carbide tip.

 

[Blacksmoke]

Red Heads are likely your most cost effective anchor. Last time I set a safe it was during the pour for the foundation and I welded anchor bolts to the rebar in the foundation. When I sold the house the safe conveyed. It ain't moving, ever.

Just a note. Thieves in our village will wrap a 3/8s chain around a safe and run it through a door or window to the hitch of a truck and drag the safe right through the wall of the house and into the yard and down the road. So, you cannot anchor too well for my money.

You have to evaluate whether your most likely risk is fire or theft and plan accordingly.

 

[Dan Forrester]

I mounted mine inside of my walk in closet. I used some type of a concrete screw like a tapcon but in 3/8 inch. Tapcons don’t go that big but this is something similar. I also threw a fender washer on each one before I set the anchors. I think the Fender washers add an extra level of security especially given the thin metal in the floors of RSCs.

Within the next 10 years I hope to build a new house with a walk in vault for added security.

Dan

 

[tegemu]

I did it by calling a locksmith. He came, maneuvered the safe to the best possible location, had all the correct tools, did the job with anchor bolts, cleaned up and said thank you, all in about 1 hour. $85.00 - a bargain.