Annealing Rifle Brass

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just finished reading an annealing article here: http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html ,but some of the info is unclear to me. It says that to properly anneal brass "662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes" is needed or that "750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds" Later on it explains the one-at-a-time method using some sort of simple holder to rotate the case until the desired temp,then dropping the case into water,apparently taking just a few seconds to do 1 case, but it is suggested that 650-750° rated Tempilaq be used. This would not provide the "750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds" . Can someone please explain or point out what I'm not seeing? I intend to try my hand at annealing by some kind of manual procedure and using either Tempilaq or Templstiks.
 
A X B= C, Volts X Amps = Watts, Distance X Weight = foot pounds (torque)

662 degree for 15 minutes makes sense to some reloaders because to most time is not a factor meaning heat travels, while taking 15 minutes to heat the mouth/shoulder (with a little bitty torch) of the case with a torch, the head of the case will be rendered scrap, like the hot horse shoe when picked up burns some, for others that put it down fast because it does not take them long to look at it.

To some waving the case over a fire is all that is required, I am a big supporter to the ideal heat travels and time is a factor, then heat is variable, change orifice or get a bigger torch. I make my own tools for annealing because I believe heat travels and I am not timid about putting heat on the neck shoulder, and it does not take me long to look at it.

F. Guffey
 
Not sure I got my question worded right. If it takes 750-800 to anneal in just seconds why are they recommending only a 650-750 Tempilaq to change the color in just seconds? Won't the brass be under-annealed or even maybe not at all.
 
You are probably going by the color change in the brass and have done a lot of annealing,if I understand you correctly. I'm a beginner so I would prefer to use a product like Tempilaq or Templstik.
 
The name on the sticks I use is TEMPILSTIK, I also have an 8 position pyrometer then I purchased the $25.00 dollar Harbor freight point and click like the one used to check the temperature of the pythons in Florida, at one foot away it is off about 2%, again heat travels, up close the ambient heat around the heated case could melt the plastic.

So assuming I determine heat by color is OK, one day someone will determine the temperature of heat travel down the case while it is being annealed,. On the Internet there are claims of annealing with a candle while the case is being held in the hand with the rational, when the case gets to hot to hold in the fingers it's done, other claims, I use a holder because the head of the case gets too hold to hold by the fingers? Then there is the link to u-tube, the narrator gets up in front of the camera and becomes the authority of annealing, he says "They say,,,,,,,,, do not listen to them because it is not important....they are wrong" for those that are watching and listening and are not dunces they will notice right off he spends too much time looking at it., he needs a bigger torch then we come back to where we started, All I want to anneal is the neck, sometimes that includes the neck, shoulder and part of the case body when forming cases from work hardened brass (fired more than once) when I do not want to use new bras, in the perfect world when forming brass new cases are used, I do not mean sizing a case, chamber and then pull the trigger, to me that is fired brass, not fire formed brass, again I form first then fire.

I control heat travel and the time I spend looking at it.

http://www.industrial-needs.com/measuring-instruments/pyrometers.htm

F. Guffey
 
I have 48 pieces of brass that have been together since new and fired 6 times,all identical loads and loaded at same time. Right now they are fully prepped for reloading,having been neck sized,trimmed and primer pockets reamed to same depth. I know you are supposed to anneal before resizing and trimmed,but can I begin annealing with these pieces and resize and trim them again?
Also,supposing I can provide enough heat to bring them to temp within a few seconds,what Tempilstick should I use?
 
I was wondering about my brass spliting after only 1 reload. Win brass. The fella at Cabelas said all I needed to do was to hold the brass 1 piece at at time by the base and heat the neck area until I could no longer hold on to it, then drop it in a bucket of room temp water. He said there was no need to go out and buy those expensive gadgits as long as you dont mind doing it one piece at a time. I mainly load for hunting so I may give this a try. 22-250,243,6.5x55,25-06,257wby,7.5x55, 270,30-06,7MM,300WinMag,300WbyMag,30-378WbyMag
 
The fella at Cabelas said all I needed to do was to hold the brass 1 piece at at time by the base and heat the neck area until I could no longer hold on to it, then drop it in a bucket of room temp water.
The only problem with that method is the temperature of the flame you use. If the flame is very hot you will exceed the recommended temp on the neck before the base becomes too hot to hold. (ruining the brass) If your flame is too cool you will not reach the temp needed to anneal the brass before the base of the case becomes too hot to hold. (waste of time)
 
The only problem with that method is the temperature of the flame you use. If the flame is very hot you will exceed the recommended temp on the neck before the base becomes too hot to hold. (ruining the brass) If your flame is too cool you will not reach the temp needed to anneal the brass before the base of the case becomes too hot to hold. (waste of time)

Yep, after annealing on my machine they can be picked right up as shown in the video on the first page. The "too hot to hold", "just turns (insert any shade) red/orange, are terms that have caused more brass to be ruined. FWIW you know you are over doing it if your flame even turns orange, using propane.
 
A good rule of thumb in my experience!

If you have cases formed from other calibers, anneal them.

If you can buy the ammo, or brass ready to shoot, don't waste the time and propane annealing.
 
Quote:


FWIW you know you are over doing it if your flame even turns orange, using propane.


Your flame or your brass? Can you elaborate?

Your flame, the say a photo is worth 1000 words so a video is even better, click on the photos.


This is what the process should be. No change in flame color and the base of the brass is cool right after annealing, and its uniform around the case.
th_nottoohot.jpg

This is what it looks like when you over anneal, notice the flame change color at the end of the cycle.
th_annealer.jpg
 
Just tried annealing some brass, and it was pretty easy.

I had 5 pieces of lake city that failed a case gauge after 2 attempts at resizing. I twirled each one under a propane torch for just 4-5 seconds. None of them turned red. They didn't get too hot to hold at the base. 3 of them had a little bit of darkening at the shoulder. 2 of them looked exactly like new brass - no color change, at all. They all passed the case gage after resizing.

I saw some other vid online where the guy used dual MAPP torches, and he left the brass for awhile. The flame turned orange. The brass turned orange, too. I guess there are different ways to do it. Maybe he was doing a caliber conversion?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU21wjeC1Xo
Whadya guys think? Is he overdoing it?
 
Last edited:
Yes, that is way to much. Part of his problem is that he doesn't know that an IR thermometer doesn't work at measuring the temperature he is looking to measure. Really, he thinks glowing brass is only 400 degrees?

Same goes for using IR to measure molten lead too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top