Another 1911 Thread

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Eightball

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I keep reading all these things on 1911s, and realized that there are a few variations I know nothing of the pros/cons about. I would do a seach, but I don't want to wade through around 200 pages of posts that mention 1911 >.<

So, what would be the pros/cons of:
Internal/external extractor
Alloy/Non-alloy frames
Linked/Linkless <<<the one I want to know the most about
Ambi/Single-Side safety (and for that matter...what does that safety do? I don't know, exactly--never shot a 1911 :eek: ).
Importance of the Finish (good/bad/ugly of all finishes), assuming good upkeep (like on the Taurus 1911, for example)
Full length guide rod/non-full length guide rod

I know this has been rehashed a bazillion times, but I just don't know the pro/cons of these things. I am not trying to be a troll or start a "this is the best, that one is the worst option" thing, just a basic, unbiased benefit/drawback of one setup vs. another. For all I know about 1911s, I realize that there's so much I DON"T know about 1911s :( .

Sorry to give more people a headache by posting this.
 
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My opinion, others have theirs.

Extractor:

External extractors have springs that wear out, along with reported issues in reliability "some 1911 maker" was on revision 3 before ditching the external extractor.

Internal: No springs

Frame: Milled steel frame would be the best, carbon / stainless

Link: All mine has the barrel link, can't help on this one

Safety: Single is better for carry, less to hang up.
Amb: Looks good, great for the range & allows left hand operation
should the right hand be injured

Finish: Stainless does not show holster wear like parked, no need in
refinishing after upgrading, scratches easily removed.
 
Internal/external extractor
Alloy/Non-alloy frames
Linked/Linkless <<<the one I want to know the most about
Ambi/Single-Side safety (and for that matter...what does that safety do? I don't know, exactly--never shot a 1911 ).
Importance of the Finish (good/bad/ugly of all finishes), assuming good upkeep (like on the Taurus 1911, for example)

As far as the extractor, I'm not really sure, beyond advertising, if an external extractor has anything to offer over a properly tuned internal version.

Frames: Alloy is generally lighter, but some alloys aren't as durable as steel.

Safety: A 1911 is designed to be carried cocked and locked. To facilitate this, it has two manual safeties. One of them is the grip safety, which is deactivated merely by grabbing the gun in a firing grip. The second is a thumb safety. The thumb safety is the part that is being referred to as "ambi," or "single side." If you're a lefty, then it's indispensible. If you want to shoot some competitions, where they occasionally make you shoot with your weak hand, it comes in awfully handy. On carry guns, opinions start to diverge. Some report having the outboard safety catch on things, and disengage, and therefore don't recommend. Others worry about the possibility of having the primary hand disabled in a defiensive situation, and do recommend. YMMV

Linked/ linkless. I don't have a clue.

Finish: A lot of it is personaly preference, about both looks, and maintainence requirements. Some finishes cost more, some less. Some are prettier, some last longer. Look deep down, ask what you're gonna use the gun for, and then pick a finish. Some of my impressions of various finishes follow:

Blue: This is actually a controlled form of rust, which, in conjuction with an oily coating prevents other rust from forming. It can be highly polished, or left matte. Either way, it requires care, and wears fairly quickly.

Parkerizing: Is a form of phosphate coating that produces a matte finish. The results vary from dead black to a greenish/greyish color. It tends to wear better than bluing does, but isn't as pretty, and still requires some care.

Stainless Steel: Isn't. It is more resistant to rust than bluing and park'ing, but with enough effort, can still rust. It is generally offered in matte, brushed, or polished, depending on how shiny you like your guns. Disadvantages are that the sun glinting on a shiny surface can wreak havoc with sight picture, and a shiny gun can reveal itself with incomplete concealment. (i.e., if a person is wearing all black, and has a pistol holstered on their hip under a jacket, a black gun may just disappear, even if the jacket flares, whereas the shiny one stands out like the proverbial sore thumb.)

That pretty much covers the common factory finishes.

Nickel: is rarely seen anymore on factory guns, but is still around. Also available as a custom finish. Few finishes offer the corrosion protection that nickel does. It wears fairly well, but if damaged, can flake. It also has natural lubricity to it. This can be both good and bad. Good for slide rails, bad for fronstraps. (it's slippery!!) See above for shiny guns.

Hard chrome: Can rust, if you try hard enough, but good luck ever getting the stuff to show a bit of wear. Again, both matte and polished finish are available. See above for shiny guns.

Tenifer/melonite: This is GLOCK's finish. Damn near impervious to damn near anything, according to the GLOCK apologists. It's the one that the torture testers chucked into the ocean, and it didn't rust. Seems like a good place for a glock, doesn't it? The melonite is the same thing, but is the trade name on this side of the pond.

There are plenty of other custom finishes out there, but I can't think of what they are, at the moment, nor do I have experience with any of them.

As far as the Taurus PT1911 goes, I'm not really sure what they put on this critter. It's billed as blue, looks like park, and wears faster than either. Oh well. Gives a gun character. Great gun otherwise. Plus, it's cheap enough that one could refinish it, and still come out ahead of a lot of other guns.

Hope this helps. Now, I'm gonna rest my poor tired fingers, and let others answer the stuff I don't know about, and argue with my answers. :neener:

~~~Mat
 
Here's another one for the list:

Full length guide rod/non-full length guide rod

I bought a SA Loaded as my second handgun because I liked a lot of its features, but I'll be the first to admit I don't fully understand ALL of them quite yet.
 
Not mentioned, but I'd shy away from any 1911's that are under 4". There seems to be a reliablility issue with all of the ones that I have shot, and I've read many accounts at 1911forum.com.
 
Two points:
Not mentioned, but I'd shy away from any 1911's that are under 4". There seems to be a reliablility issue with all of the ones that I have shot, and I've read many accounts at 1911forum.com.
I've read that too, but I was enticed by a Springfield Loaded Micro-Compact
last year, so I bought it. Over 500 rounds later, no (zero) failures at all.
I'm happy with it.

Secondly, on the full length guide rod craze. I put a "FLGR" from a well
known "custom" gun maker in my Colt Series 70 Gov. Model, and that's
when it started having feed and ejection problems. I put the original
parts back in and the feeding problems went away. Coincidence?
Hmmm...:scrutiny:

Walter
 
Well, internal extractors can get out of tune and need to be adjusted, I believe external extractors are somewhat more reliable.

Unless you're a lefty, there's no real need for an ambi safety, unless you enoy getting it snagged on your sweater.

Full length guide rod makes the gun run slightly smoother and the recoil spring last a bit longer, but it complicates takedown significanty.

Stainless is a nice finish that you don't have to pamper and still looks good.
 
"Internal/external extractor"
Nearly all autoloaders nowadays have external extractors. 1911s generally have internal models, and they generally seem to work.

Alloy/Non-alloy frames - steel is heavier, should be more durable. Alloys should be lighter, durable enough for (most) government work.

Linked/Linkless - I'm pretty sure that linkless 1911s are rare, thus the paucity of folk knowing what they be. Somewhere I heard of a 10mm 1911 that was linkless. Expensive, too.
P.S. You may learn to hate that swinging link. I did.

Ambi/Single-Side safety - the manual safety locks up the hammer. The grip safety locks up the trigger - or so I've read. If you want to shoot left-handed, you might want an ambi safety.

Importance of the Finish (good/bad/ugly of all finishes) - blued looks nicest, wears off pretty easy. Parkerized is so ugly you won't know whether it's comin' or goin'. Stainless, IMO, is simply a more useless variation of chrome or nickel - and generally not as good looking.

Guide rods were not ordained by Saint JM Browning, therefore they are blasphemy, therefore you should send them to your worst enemy, in hopes his soul shall be destroyed with fire, brimstone, and Glock KBs. *Might* offer an advantage in accuracy, I don't know. It takes away from the easy-as-all-getout field-stripping for a real 1911.
 
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