stiles,
Ah, a Dillon owner that wants to see what's down the rabbit hole. Be careful, you're mind is made up, are you sure you want to be confused with facts?
"Dave can I ask you a few things about your Hornady press without offending you too terribly? You say it's faster to do caliber conversions, can you expand on how it's faster?"
You own a Dillon, so you don't need to be told how it's done. Here's a complete caliber change, including primer size change for a Hornady. This is from .45ACP to 9MM. This is moving slowly and methodically, as I'm not a hurry kind of guy. Steps 1 through 5 and 10 I would do with any press I owned, so time for them would be the same. I only own one powder measure, so I don't change it. I would only own one powder measure with a Dillon, so I wouldn't change it either. In both cases, one would have to empty the powder and clean the measure out before inserting new powder. At least that's my preferred habit, others may differ.
1. Pull out reloading manual. Check recorded load "set up" for the cartridge I want.
2. Lay out tools, shellplate, primer punch and die set, plus the empty box for the new die set. Load new caliber primers into feeding tubes.
3. Remove original caliber bins and empty into storage containers.
4. Lay out brass and bullets in AKRO bins with spares.
5. Set up powder scale to check powder weight.
6. Break shellplate locking nut loose with wrench, spin out with fingers, remove original shellplate, case retainer spring and remove original primer punch - 20 seconds - (Note: if you can't do this in this time, you're either deliberately going slower than me, because I'm a turtle or you're a mechanical klutz.)
7. Install next primer punch, place shellplate on sub plate, install locking nut and flip case retaining spring into postion - 20 seconds.
8. Swap out the die set, twist and click out, then twist and click in - 15 seconds. (Note: If one had additional powder measures set up for each caliber, one could simply swap it out the same as the dies. Add one or two more seconds to time totals. BTW, I'm being conservative with the time changeover takes, not exaggerating.)
9. Swap powder measure insert for small pistol insert and adjust setting using note from Loading Notebook - 10 seconds.
10. Load powder, then check powder dump setting by dumping three powder dumps and measuring fourth. Make any minor adjustment needed. (Note: I did this when I owned my Dillon as well, so time would be about the same.)
11. Swap primer feeder tube - pull out original tube and drop in new tube. 2 seconds.
12. Install primers from loading tube into feeding tube - 2 seconds.
Well, let's see, if my math is right, that adds up to about 69 seconds or 1 minute, 9 seconds. Of course, I coulda missed a second or two. hmmm....
"I cut my teeth loading on a friends Projector and the only thing I can figure out is you must save time when your changing priming systems."
It's nice you "cut your teeth" on a Projector, but a Projector isn't a Lock N Load. It looks similar, but it definately isn't a Lock N Load. Those Lock and Load bushings ARE GENUINELY faster. I KNOW, because I OWNED a Dillon, remember?
"The lock-n-load system is very neat but it's not faster, the problem I would have with that is organization and only having two hands, but that's me (maybe you have 2 hands too but if it's a faster system for you you probably have more than 2 )." Changing the shell plate from what I remember is the same on the 650 v the Hornady."
I'm not going to tell you that you're a mechanical klutz. Again, a Projector isn't a Lock N Load. It's a very different press, though it looks the same.
"I know the Lock-n-load had a primer system revision and I don't remember much about the Projector primer system after all it was back in '95, is this where you get your faster caliber changes?"
Dunno, you were the one that "cut your teeth" on the Projector, not I.
"I'm spoiled cause I have both the large and small primer assemblies for my 650, but my guess it's the primer seater."
You mean you have to change out an "assembly" to change between large and small primers? Wow, I just gotta change a cheap assed aluminum tube that isn't even locked down to anything. I just pull it out and drop another one in it's place.
"The little parts for the case feeder and the station 1 locater are simple enough to change, I can't see that being the advantage."
What little parts for the case feeder? What station 1 locator parts?
"Spill the beans already!"
Nope, that'd make a damn mess. I like things neat and orderly.
"Since your buddy has a 650 show him this link, it will help him save money on conversion kits by letting him buy just what parts he needs, it's a very cool utility for 650 owners."
Oh...that's how you save money with Dillon caliber changes. Ya gotta cut corners, I get it now. I'll check the link out and see what it costs that way and I'll pass the link onto my buddy. Yes, I'm busting your balls, just like I bust his.
To not be an total horse's rear, he busted my balls during the Hornady upgrades to the shellplates and primer systems. But now they're done and past history, he's hating it.
I got all my parts free, just like he does with his Dillon, except with mine, most stuff is steel or aluminum and no "small" parts.
I should note with the Hornady, anything you buy related to a caliber change is made of steel. Once you buy the shellplate #1 (.45ACP, 30.06 and similar bases) and the one for .223, you cover most of the calibers. I only needed 7 total to cover most all the calibers I could ever dream of load. Bushings coming cheap in the ten pack. I guess you could add a powder measure or two, which ain't cheap.
"The other question I have about the Hornady press has to do with the crimp die and the ejector spring interfering with non Hornady crimp dies. Has this been a problem for you?"
My 9MM die set is Lee and I use the FCD unmodified, if that's what you're asking.
"If so have you found a workaround other than grinding the crimp dies?
Yes, takes a couple of minutes to do. Just bend a "U-shaped" bend in the ejector spring towards the rear of the press. Bend in two places to form the "U." 1. Bend once close to where the ejector spring wire is located and 2. bend close near where the ejector spring touches has the bend that goes into it's retainer above the shellplate. Measure the die intrusion into the wire and use this distance and add a couple thousandths to get your bend radius. You can use appropriate sized drill rod (It's nice and stiff.) to make the bend radius. When you're done, polish the ejector spring rod with sandpaper, then green scrubby pad to insure smooth ejection.
"I would really like a picture of a modified ejector spring for reference if somebody has one so I can share it with other Hornady owners, it is after all the machine I recommend if the 1050 or 650 are too pricey."
I apologize, but I suck at posting pictures on the internet. I suspect the description above should be adequate for someone that owns the press. It's a simple mod and Hornady could be making these springs like this, but they're being turds and not helping Lee. Maybe because it's the competition. Hornady crimp dies clear. Not sure about Dillon dies, they may also clear.
"I like the Hornady press and if I didn't get the 650 I would have gotten the early Lock-n-load. The reason I went with the Dillon was because I liked that the Dillon did belling in the powder drop stage and I like the removable tool head design better than the individual lock-n-load thing."
A personal preference thing. I know, having owned a 550, I would never advise anyone to get a 550 over the Hornady. I also would concur it's 6 one way, half a dozen the other related to satisfaction with the Lock N Load vs. the Dillon 650.
"I know Hornady is redesigning the case activated powder drop system right now, who knows they may be adding powder drop though a belling expander, if so I wonder if Lee's patent ran out or they decided to pay royalties."
The new case activated powder drop is out the middle of this month. MidwayUSA is already displaying prices ($45.99) for it. It fits the original Lock N Load powder measure, has a slightly different operating mechanism and has belling expander inserts one can buy ($7.99 each) in most all popular pistol calibers. I Dunno about the Lee Patent, is that way Dillon presses are so expensive? Having to pay royalties to Lee for using so many Lee design patents?
"That could be neat for Hornady owners, no more Lyman belling expander tricks needed if that is the change."
Tricks? That was a cheap (The price of one Lyman die set.) and easy mod. And I know Dillon owners mod their presses, because my buddies that own Dillons have modified their presses. Is it only a modification if it's on a Dillon press and it's a "trick" if it's done on "non-blue" presses?
"For the record I didn't buy the Dillon because I disliked the Hornady, but more because I like the Dillon more than I like the Hornady."
It's ok, we know you drank the blue kool-aid and are comforted by the soothing blue color of the press any time you realize you don't have that other milsurp you wanted because you spent the money on the Dillon.
"Dave why do you tell people not to take pop shots at other peoples equipment and then you turn right around and do just what you told everybody else not to do? Old designs usually stick around in the market place because they are good . Old designs that dominate the market place do so because they are great!"
I'm not taking pot shots. I said what I know to the the truth about those presses. I didn't say anything I think is negative about Dillon presses. Facts aren't negative, they're just facts and unlike you blue kool-aid drinkers, I didn't tell him to solve his problems by throwing money at it. (aka give more money to Mike Dillon to support his machine gun habit.) And Dillon designs have been good ones, but they are getting dated and could be improved. Both my pals think their powder measures leave something to be desired and bitch about them. Old designs are great, until they get surpassed by new, better, more efficient to manufacture and less expensive designs.
"If you don't think that Dillon dominates the progressive market you may be shocked to know that 98% of all USPSA competitors polled used Dillon machines (the stat is from Front Sight mag)."
Big whoops. This same crowd (I know, I'm a gunsmith and I work on their guns.) pisses off more money on gadjet guns trying to win than one can shake a stick at. Most of them don't. Win, that is. I see a lot of guys paying high prices for various guns, then they end up bringing them to me to fix some issue or another. I see this REGULARLY. I also know of other firearms that are as good and most cases way better than the ones they spend their money on, but the snob factor won't let them buy the less expensive gun, because they wanna feel "secure" emotionally in their purchase and get oohs and ahhs at the range.
"How are you liking the cast classic press, does it catch all the primers like it should in it's primer tube setup?"
It's great - has a hole right down the middle of the ram and a tube that you can use to feed the spend primers through a hole in your bench to a trash can or bucket below.
"I have a rock chuncker which cost me a grand total of $0 but getting primers and the muck everywhere sucks."
Had a used one too, got rid of it after using it and the LEE side by side for a few months. A perfect example of a great old design being eclipsed by a new , more efficient design.
"When you had them side by side how was the effort on FL sizing a bottle neck cartage?"
The Lee linkage is very similar to the RCBS Junior press linkage and is very efficient. It's hard to say, but the Lee may have even been less effort than the RCBS.
"I don't get the whole 550 is just a turret press rant but your kidding yourself if you think a real turret press is almost as fast as a manual indexing progressive press.
If it isn't auto indexing, have the capability for case activated powder dumps, an automated powder feed, auto eject and the ability to add a case feeder, I don't consider it a progressive press, because basically, it isn't one. If you wanna fully understand my thinking, look at what the 550 is based on - the AT500 TURRET press. So basically, it's a "jazzed up" turret press. That's reality.
""I have no interest in a manual indexing progressive press what so ever and have never suggested to anyone to buy one I understand that, but a single ram turret press is what it is."
I assume you're talking about the LEE classic cast turret press. But you should realize that press has an auto indexing turret. And wether your auto index the turret or the shellplate, the automation is there. The Lee also has automatic powder dump and a fairly quick manually operated primer feed system. I would guess it's probably capable of 300 rounds per hour if the guy works at it a little bit. Most 550 owner really aren't doing any better speed wise and the LEE classic turret press fully set up is less than 200 bucks, including dies. Hell, at that price difference, the two presses shouldn't even be comparable or close to comparable output wise. Another example of new designs being more price efficient. If I were looking at the 550 because I didn't need high output, I'd look hard at the Lee classic cast turret as well and spend that extra money on loading components.
"That being said it doesn't make a turret press a bad tool but for me I'd only be interested in one for case forming wildcats which I don't do a lot of (I only fire form a 30'06 ackley improved and it aint even my rifle, errrrr)."
Hmm, you might be a candidate for the LEE for such purposes, it's a cast iron press with an excellent linkage design, the same one that's on the classic cast single stage and has the nice spent primer dispense as well. I'm buying one for loading milsurp rifle.
"And Dave while I haven't helped fix the Lee priming problem the only person that has given a go at it is trickyasafox, not you or Uncle Don have taken a stab at helping either. Pot, kettle and black comes to mind ATM. Didn't think anybody would notice that did ya"
No, I couldn't help him or I would have. But I did defend him and his press, along with offering him encouragement, which is what YOU DILLON KOOL-AID DRINKERS DID NOT DO, which is WHY I posted. You guys just attacked his press and did the "buy dillon" kool-aid rant.
One last point and this is the bottom line. You Dillon owners need to learn to RESPECT the choices of others if they didn't choice Dillon.