Another Ruger SFAR

Havok7416

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Kentucky
Awhile back I got a random itch to acquire an AR-10 type rifle. It wasn't a high priority but I have been considering everything from the PSA PA-10 to several low-to-mid-price brands, to include the Sig 716i and Springfield Saint Victor. There were others but those are the ones I can recall.

When Ruger announced the SFAR last year it definitely caught my attention. I made sure to handle one in person before deciding on the 20" version. In the meantime, knowing I would be getting a .308 AR rifle, I started grabbing the necessary accessories as I found deals. I eventually ended up with everything but the rifle itself since the 20" version has been harder to find. Last month my local shop managed to get an SFAR on order for me and it finally arrived last week. I have yet to take it out to shoot but I got everything installed.

Below is the only picture I currently have of the gun. I installed a Hogue Monogrip, Magpul bipod and extended recoil pad, Sig Bushmasters 3-12x BDC scope in a Vortex cantilever mount and PSA (actually Timber Creek) "Custom" ambi safety. I also bought ten 25-round Pmags, but the gun came with a single 20-round. Even with a loaded 25-round magazine in the gun i am very surprised by how light this gun is, although I have to admit I haven't weighed it yet.

I am waiting until I shoot the gun to determine if I need a charging handle better suited to the scope. The good news is that it takes standard AR-15 charging handles.
20230914_181733.jpg
 
Congrats! :cool: I hope you like it. I do like mine.

I have the 16” model. Definitely consider a different charging handle. The one that comes with it isn’t scope friendly. Then again my scope appears to sit back further than the one you have mounted on yours.

View attachment 1173432

View attachment 1173434
Do you have a charging handle you might recommend? I am torn as to upgrade it or not and I guess I will have to see once I shoot it. Part of me says it won't work and another part of me argues that I only need it once each time I shoot.
 
Do you have a charging handle you might recommend? I am torn as to upgrade it or not and I guess I will have to see once I shoot it. Part of me says it won't work and another part of me argues that I only need it once each time I shoot.
I was going to go with a Bravo Company wide handle but I didn’t want to spend a bunch of money only to find I didn’t like it. So, I bought a Strike Industries model with the extension only one one side and I got it on sale. I like it.

The package it came in:
IMG_2142.jpeg

How it extends only on one side:
IMG_2144.jpeg

So far I like it.
 
I was going to go with a Bravo Company wide handle but I didn’t want to spend a bunch of money only to find I didn’t like it. So, I bought a Strike Industries model with the extension only one one side and I got it on sale. I like it.

The package it came in:
View attachment 1173436

How it extends only on one side:
View attachment 1173437

So far I like it.
I'm going to have to find something left hand or ambi - IF I can't work the handle as it is.
 
One thing I forgot to mention. I tried a Magpul B.A.D. (battery assist device) lever on my bolt release. A nifty gadget I used to install on my AR-15s. They do not work well on the SFAR. It didn’t allow the bolt catch to fully engage the bolt. It’s now in the parts bin. I will probably give it to one of my nephews.

Photo from the link above.
1695870280468.jpeg
 
Wonder what one in 6.5 Creedmoor would do?
I have it on good authority from the internet commandos that you will inevitably grow a man bun and a neck beard.

@Pat Riot I just noticed how far back the gas block is on your rifle. Mine is basically at the end of the handguard, which is why the bipod is sitting so far back. It does make easy access for the Allen key, but I'm not sure how often I will be adjusting it.
 
Tag - to see how you like the rifle and scope. The SFAR is really the only new semi-auto rifle that interests me.
 
@ Pat Riot,

It looks like the scope vs charging handle issue is how/where you're mounting the scope.

I know we all might shoot a bit differently, but for me (Im a "nose to the charging handle" shooter), its back way too far. I mount mine basically where the irons are mounted and I get the same cheek weld with my irons, red dot and scopes, and they all shoulder the same and naturally. With the scope more forward, the charging handle is readily accessible, and any way you might choose to use it.

This is my M&P 10 with a Vortex Strike Eagle

00-DboCy8WJYzQR_q_dc-F5BNyntOLdWDP5ZdA7LI-ODz9jmMIpjjnXFJQXgMOrGH-tqCe7ffHDJpwno-pEcjtJnw



My local shop has had a SFAR sitting there for a couple of months now, and I keep eyeing it up. Just been a little leery with some of the reports and keep figuring I'll wait. Definitely interested in hearing how those here make out with theirs.

Not that I need another AR, but you know how that goes. :)
 
It looks like the scope vs charging handle issue is how/where you're mounting the scope.

I know we all might shoot a bit differently, but for me (Im a "nose to the charging handle" shooter), its back way too far.
When I was younger my scope would be forward too. Unfortunately bike crashes and other daredevil mishaps have left me with some limitations that have me setting scopes a bit further back. I gotta work with what I got. ;)
 
I have it on good authority from the internet commandos that you will inevitably grow a man bun and a neck beard.

@Pat Riot I just noticed how far back the gas block is on your rifle. Mine is basically at the end of the handguard, which is why the bipod is sitting so far back. It does make easy access for the Allen key, but I'm not sure how often I will be adjusting it.
Mine is further back due to the barrel length. It’s basically a carbine.
Going by memory here, but I believe Ruger states in the manual to set it on “3” for the first 200 rounds for break-in.
 
Grandson put this on his SFAR. Help with gas when suppressed too.

Some people clearly have much more money than I do for fancy handles and I'm truly glad for them. I can't fathom spending 10% of the total rifle cost on a charging handle.
Mine is further back due to the barrel length. It’s basically a carbine.
Going by memory here, but I believe Ruger states in the manual to set it on “3” for the first 200 rounds for break-in.
I found that pretty funny since I've been staring at various SFARs both online and in person and I never caught the different placement. I totally get why it's different though.

I did see the manual recommends the "3" setting for initial break-in. It further says that "2" setting should be sufficient for most commercial ammo, but that you should use the highest number setting that allows the gun to function. I played with the gas block already and I was astounded how easy it was to change settings. I actually thought it was broken at first. It comes with an Allen key and you just rotate it 1/4 turn. There's almost no resistance and there's a positive detent to make sure it's in the proper spot. In case that's not clear enough, there is a number that shows on the right side of the gas block. That's your current setting. It even has a no gas setting ("0").
 
did see the manual recommends the "3" setting for initial break-in. It further says that "2" setting should be sufficient for most commercial ammo, but that you should use the highest number setting that allows the gun to function. I played with the gas block already and I was astounded how easy it was to change settings. I actually thought it was broken at first. It comes with an Allen key and you just rotate it 1/4 turn. There's almost no resistance and there's a positive detent to make sure it's in the proper spot. In case that's not clear enough, there is a number that shows on the right side of the gas block. That's your current setting. It even has a no gas setting ("0").
I noticed the same thing. Mine has a definite detention but turning it is so easy. I was concerned something might be wrong but it hasn’t moved. Also, when I called Ruger to ask questions about the break-in I mentioned this. The lady I spoke with said that my gas block is functioning as intended. If it gets snug cleaning is needed.
I was concerned that break in on setting 3 was too much. She assured me it isn’t.
I was also concerned about an ammo issue I had (see below) *
Currently I am right at the 200 rounds for break in.


* ALSO while we are discussing this…
Swiss Saltech .308 (7.62 NATO) ammo and my SFAR do not get along!
The brass is soft and I think the chamber on the SFAR is tight. My gun’s extractor rips chunks out of the rims of the brass.
The Saltech fires okay from my Garand in .308. It’s not very accurate and the brass goes everywhere, unlike decent ammo where the brass consistently lands in nearly the same spot.
I don’t have a chronograph but the ammo fires with inconsistent accuracy and report from the Garand.
After 3 stuck cases in the SFAR with only 7 rounds fired in the SFAR I would pass on this ammo.
 
I noticed the same thing. Mine has a definite detention but turning it is so easy. I was concerned something might be wrong but it hasn’t moved. Also, when I called Ruger to ask questions about the break-in I mentioned this. The lady I spoke with said that my gas block is functioning as intended. If it gets snug cleaning is needed.
I was concerned that break in on setting 3 was too much. She assured me it isn’t.
I was also concerned about an ammo issue I had (see below) *
Currently I am right at the 200 rounds for break in.


* ALSO while we are discussing this…
Swiss Saltech .308 (7.62 NATO) ammo and my SFAR do not get along!
The brass is soft and I think the chamber on the SFAR is tight. My gun’s extractor rips chunks out of the rims of the brass.
The Saltech fires okay from my Garand in .308. It’s not very accurate and the brass goes everywhere, unlike decent ammo where the brass consistently lands in nearly the same spot.
I don’t have a chronograph but the ammo fires with inconsistent accuracy and report from the Garand.
After 3 stuck cases in the SFAR with only 7 rounds fired in the SFAR I would pass on this ammo.
A worthy PSA for sure. It sounds like a bad batch of ammo on multiple vectors. In my case I reload all my .308 and I do so to Hornady's Service Rifle specs, primarily because I have planned for several years to get my M1 Garand rebarrelled in .308. Oddly enough I finally just sent that gun out yesterday to get that done.
 
I keep thinking about one of these, then I remember the AR charging handle and my interest goes away. I look at side charging options, but the price f the ones i like quickly rises to the point that I might as well buy another FAL. Yours looks good and I hope you are liking it.
 
A worthy PSA for sure. It sounds like a bad batch of ammo on multiple vectors. In my case I reload all my .308 and I do so to Hornady's Service Rifle specs, primarily because I have planned for several years to get my M1 Garand rebarrelled in .308. Oddly enough I finally just sent that gun out yesterday to get that done.
“Hornady Service Rifle Specs”? Interesting. Where do you find those. I got all my stuff together to load .308. Been looking for a recipe. Tired of buying it.

I converted my Garand in ‘96 or ‘97. 7.62 NATO was going for like 15¢ a round at gun shows. 30-06 was 40¢ per round for crap ammo. I converted my Garand to .308 and 7.62 NATO dried up. Freakin’ Murphy’s Law. 😆
Anyway, I started finding ammo again after a while for 45¢ per round.

I really like it in .308. It’s really accurate with 7.62 NATO. I shot some Norma ammo in it recently and I was nailing the bullseye at 100 yards with nearly every shot. Not bad for an 80 year old gun…well, the receiver is 80 years old. :cool:
 
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“Hornady Service Rifle Specs”? Interesting. Where do you find those. I got all my stuff together to load .308. Been looking for a recipe. Tired of buying it.

I converted my Garand in ‘96 or ‘97. 7.62 NATO was going for like 15¢ a round at gun shows. 30-06 was 40¢ per round for crap ammo. I converted my Garand to .308 and 7.62 NATO dried up. Freakin’ Murphy’s Law. 😆
Anyway, I started finding ammo again after a while for 45¢ per round.

I really like it in .308. It’s really accurate with 7.62 NATO. I shot some Norma ammo in it recently and I was nailing the bullseye at 100 yards with nearly every shot. Not bad for an 80 year old gun…well, the receiver is 80 years old. :cool:
Hornady has a special section in their loading manual for M1A/M-14 rifles. Since I'm converting my M1 to .308 I figured it was close enough. I usually use 4895 which is the original .30-06 powder. 20230928_170114.jpg 20230928_170204.jpg 20230928_170223.jpg 20230928_170244.jpg
 

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