Another SP101 trigger question.... (Thanks to BIG BOAR too...)

[Glockdaddy]

A few weeks ago several of you shared some excellent information on smoothing the SP101 trigger. I have taken it apart twice....doing a polish job each time. The most recent was a very thorough polishing job as directed by instructions that were provide by BIGBOAR. And THANKS BB.....that info was GOLD!!

Here is my new question. I have smoothed the pull dramatically.....installed an 8# return spring and 12# Reduced hammer spring (both Wolff). But I still have a rough trigger return....not really scratchy....but it definitely returns in stages. And it actually makes a squeek noise..

This really won't have an effect on how the pistol shoots, but it does bug me and I am spoiled by some very sweet SW triggers.

So...can anybody refer me to the area of the trigger mechanism that I need to pay special attention to so that this return squeek and staging is reduced??? I would really appreciate it.

By the way, I did a good polish job on the trigger plunger and even put a bit of silicone lube there....because it looked like the possible cause.

I am sure gettin' good at tearing this little rascal apart!!

Thanks again guys......

GO STEELERS!!!

 

[Old Fuff]

Perhaps you have reduced the spring tensions to the point where the associated parts no longer move smoothly, but instead hang up on the least resistance. Try returning the original springs and see if they make a difference.

 

[Glockdaddy]

Perhaps you have reduced the spring tensions to the point where the associated parts no longer move smoothly, but instead hang up on the least resistance. Try returning the original springs and see if they make a difference.

Good Idea Old Fluff....but I had this before I changed the springs as well. The reduced hammer spring feels great...but I do think that the reduced trigger return spring may be making it worse. I am going out of town on business tomorrow....but upon my return I will try swapping the return spring back.

I just got a bobbed hammer in for my SW36...anxious to put it in too...but all these projects will have to wait until I spend some time with the missus....can't come back from a trip and dissappear in the basement....

Thanks for your help....

 

[Old Fuff]

...can't come back from a trip and disappear in the basement....

Ah... No. Sometimes gunwork has to wait.

Ruger's lockwork is made of stainless steel, which is good in some respects, but not in others. Some lubricants are made for use on stainless, and you might try them.

I presume what you are mainly looking for is a better double action. Polishing in and of itself isn't the answer. Polishing does nothing for a better feeling action except where parts rub together under pressure. There is a "finger" on the trigger that pushes on the bottom of a little lever (called a "dog"), that's mounted in the hammer face, and that in turn levers the hammer and rotates it backward. The engagement angles between those two parts is responsible for most of what you feel in the double-action pull.

Also be aware that there are design differences between the Smith & Wesson and Ruger lockwork that account for a difference between they're respective double actions trigger pulls in some models (K, L, and N-frame ones in particular). This does not make a Ruger revolver a lesser one, but does explain why there is a difference.

 

[Glockdaddy]

Thanks for the advice Old Fluff. My SP101 is a DAO model with bobbed hammer. All I really wanted to accomplish was to smooth the pull and return. The pressure really wasn't bad. Folks talk about a gritty trigger and that is what I am trying to improve. The pull really is pretty good...the break point is near the end of the pull, farther than with a SW...and I can get used to that. I realize that the Ruger is built like a tank when compared to the SW revolvers...and I don't expect the trigger to ever be that good....

I will keep playing with it...

Thanks again

 

[461]

Wish I could help, I've got two SP's and a third on the way. First one came with an owner screwed up trigger job that worked out fine once I replaced the cylinder stop that he'd rounded off a tad too much, Second one immediately went off to Gemini Customs and came back awesome, the third one will be my first new one but it's a .32Mag and I've heard they have better actions out of the box. My GP's however have benefitted mightily from simply dry firing a few thousand times, regimen was to come home from work and give it 250 pulls and after resting my hand for a few hours go back and give it another 250- after a week or so either it lightened up or my muscles built up but it was great. Good luck.

 

[Blight]

I have two SP101s and my wife has one as well. All have been treated to good trigger and action jobs. Each has a Wolff reduced power mainspring. However, none have the Wolff reduced power trigger return spring.

I made the mistake of using the reduced power trigger return spring on my first SP101 to be worked on. The spring made the otherwise smooth trigger feel gritty and rough on the return stoke. The weaker spring also reduced my ability to accurately shoot quick hammers (aka double taps). It was as if I was having to wait for the trigger to reset.

Needless to say, the reduced power trigger return spring did not stay in that SP101 for long.

I would suggerst that you simply replace the reduced power trigger return spring with the factor spring. I think that will clear up you problems.

Cheers.

 

[RyanM]

There's a small "finger" that slides in and out of a groove on the return stroke. I don't remember what it's called. Did you polish the top of that? If not, you may want to.

 

[Glockdaddy]

RyanM...good idea, I will polish that part when I put the regular return spring back in.... Blight is Right!

I didn't like the soft return at all and I figured that the original spring would be the best bet.

These rugers are easy to take down and once you learn where all the parts go..... you can put it back together again... over and over...

I appreciate the sturdy design of the Ruger....but it sure is nice to observe the action on a SW when the side plate is removed!!!

Thanks for all the help guys...I am on a short road trip now but should have this swapped out by the end of the week....I will report back with my results.