SP101 trigger return issue

[DairyVet]

I’ve been messing around with polish, shims, and springs (no dremel or file) to smooth out the action on my SP101. It’s been a fun way to improve my understanding of the lock-work, but I ran into a snag using the reduced power trigger return spring that comes in the Wolff spring kit.

About half the time the trigger fails to fully return. It stalls out when the trigger plunger is sliding past the cylinder catch. I found and dealt with a bur on the plunger where it slides on the trigger (1500 grit sandpaper and polish) and lightly polished the corresponding surfaces on the catch and plunger, but that didn’t fix it.

The easiest (current) solution is stick with the factory return spring. That said the DA pull was a bit more pleasant with the lighter spring, so if others had ideas on a solution that they’d be willing to share I’d like to hear them.

Thanks in advance.

 

[sequins]

How well lubricated is it?

 

[WrongHanded]

I've heard of issues with the lighter weight trigger return spring. When I resprung my SP101, I noticed the replacement trigger spring was shorter than the original.

I put the original back in. I want that trigger to return with as close to certainty as I can get.

 

[Jonesy814]

A few years ago I did some spring swapping in my SP101. I hated the reduced power return spring. It returned my trigger but felt weak & mushy. I did stick with a reduced power mainspring.

 

[Tony_the_tiger]

Proof is in the pudding. Use the spring that gets the work done.

 

[DairyVet]

How well lubricated is it?

It’s not dripping with oil, but all surfaces got a light coating of oil as I put it back together

I've heard of issues with the lighter weight trigger return spring.

I had heard of those issues, too but figured if someone here had some success getting it to run after an initial failure it would be worth a try.

 

[edwardware]

Based on my experience with Rugers, you'll be able to solve this by dealing with fitment issues. Every surface that trigger interacts with can be smoothed, and sufficient use will further smooth it out.

My Bisley exhibited the same lazy return, but fitment and a year's use smoothed it right out.

 

[high country]

Did you check the inside of the hole that the return plunger travels in? Every GP and SP I have looked at needed some significant polishing of the inside of that for the lighter return spring to work well. There can be a lot of chatter from the machine work in there, and the light return spring has resulted in mushy or inconsistent return. Once it is cleaned up and working right I really like the light spring.

 

[beag_nut]

There is also a chance of machining marks inside the hole which that spring sits in. Others have had success "reaming" the hole with the proper size drill.

 

[sequins]

It’s not dripping with oil, but all surfaces got a light coating of oil as I put it back together

I experienced the issue you described with a factory spring. Liberal dry fire and dripping wet with oil fixed it for me.

 

[high country]

There is also a chance of machining marks inside the hole which that spring sits in. Others have had success "reaming" the hole with the proper size drill.

This is the issue I was talking about, beag-nut explained it better though. It is common. I just chuck up some emory cloth on a small dowel I have for the purpose and get it slicked up a bit. But if it were really bad reaming might be necessary.

I use a little dab of light grease on those parts when I reassemble too.

 

[DairyVet]

Thanks high country and beag nut. Have not done anything with the hole that holds the spring and return plunger yet. Certainly worth a try.

 

[243winxb]

Stop beating yourself up and put back in ALL new factory springs.

Next will be misfires when a different (harder) primer is used.

 

[DairyVet]

Stop beating yourself up and put back in ALL new factory springs.

Next will be misfires when a different (harder) primer is used.

Where’s the fun in that?

 

[Rexster]

I have normally kept the full-power springs in my Rugers. I want the trigger to return as quickly as possible, and I do not want light-strikes.

 

[LoonWulf]

Based on my experience with Rugers, you'll be able to solve this by dealing with fitment issues. Every surface that trigger interacts with can be smoothed, and sufficient use will further smooth it out.

My Bisley exhibited the same lazy return, but fitment and a year's use smoothed it right out.

This is the issue I was talking about, beag-nut explained it better though. It is common. I just chuck up some emory cloth on a small dowel I have for the purpose and get it slicked up a bit. But if it were really bad reaming might be necessary.

I use a little dab of light grease on those parts when I reassemble too.

Ive resprung and polished my gp100, had exactly the same thing happening. Above posts were what I took to fix my issues. DA pulls at 10lbs, and SA is 2.75 or 3 (cant remember right now), With the second heaviest hammer spring, and reduced power everything else.

From my experience with lightening triggers, on well... everything, youll begin to find ALL the faults, snags, and rough spots in your triggers operational cycle. If you want a crisp clean trigger pull and little work? stick with relatively heavy springs. If you want a light, crisp clean pull, your gonna have to go thru everything.

 

[DairyVet]

Polishing that tube did the trick. Works great now with a smooth pull and positive return. Had it out to the range today and no light primer strikes, either!

The change was substantial enough that my wife went from not being able to work the double-action at all, to holding 5 rounds on an 8” target at 5 yards. Seeing that much improvement has her excited now to keep improving. Thanks again everyone for the help!