Any Good Tips?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Become a very good shot, and when you become so, THEN work on becoming a very good shot in low light, near dawn or dusk. It is better to walk up to the dead dear and retrieve it than to hike about for hours tracking a wounded deer.

Scout the area where you will hunt before you hunt. IF you have no-hunting-on-Sunday laws in your state, Sunday is a good day for this if hunting has already begun.

Hunt ALL day, especially in areas that other hunters have access, and public lands with a good population of hunters. The deer will hold up due to the noise of the incoming hunters, and will stay put for the noise of the hunters who are leaving for work (they could only take off a half day) or the suburbanites who leave for lunch and come back at about 3 p.m. The deer will begin to move at about 1:30 pm until the yahoos return.

Learn to read the wind and use the wind to your advantage. Scent covers products and clothing are good to a certain degree, after that..., they do a good job of getting money from you to the sellers, not getting deer (imho).

Tree stands need safety equipment. #1 Cause of hunting accidents is from falling (from various reasons) from a tree stand without using a safety harness. I don't use them, but where I hunt the terrain gives me a similar advantage.

Share the meat with the landowner if they would like some venison. If the gate on the farm is open, leave it so, and if closed be sure you close it when going through. If you see trash take it with you when you leave, and it doesn't hurt to let the land owner see you do this. I have two places where I am the sole hunter allowed as I did the above and the other hunters didn't, so I continue to get permission to hunt as I respect and help the landowner and his land.

There are many more and I sure folks will add to the list.

LD
 
Buy Arm&Hammer backing soda and use it for scent control on you and to wash your cloths. Make some spray with it and use it as well. DAVE has alot of good advise too. Learn to listen and move slowly . I have killed more deer between 11 and 1 oclock than most other periods of the day and in the rain, a nice shower will make deer get up and move some if cool out. If you, like most of us all day hunters tend to catnap, when you wake yourself up snoreing s l o w l y look around you . You could have a group of deer looking at the tree makeing noise. Practice shooting that bow the you will hunt to,heavy coat, setting down with what ever you might have on you. Even practice shooting cold just to be sure you can still pull your bow. Learn the distance you can live with makeing a long shot and stay with it. Range finder needed too. If you have any friends that bow hunts see if they can tune you up for any tricks for your hunting area. Get a game camera or 2 to help with what is moveing where you want to hunt and to pattern time they are moveing there. Buy a typo/terrian map at the forrestry office or down load map google of the area your going to hunt. That will help to find pinch points and elevation changes that deer may travel to and from bedding and feeding area's. and learn the wind and have a different location as a backup planed. Sometime takes a year just to learn deer movement and the property and don't drive around on a atv, use only to haul the deer out if needed. Stands can be climbers, clamp ons,ladder type leaners, tripods and ground blinds. The property you hunt and trees may trim that choice somewhat to just a couple. All will work for bow and gun hunting at some point. If you have farm land in your area,ask the owner if you can hunt and see if they can help with where the deer move on there land. Just because they have 1000 acres it my only hold deer on 100 acres. They typicaly love to see deer taken off there lands and do help out with info.
 
If you hunt from a tree stand, make sure that you know how to aim and shoot while elevated (your aim will be different).

I suggest getting a loop so you can rest your bow on in (attached to you) while standing, much better than wearing your arm out while holding the bow for hours.

I suggest not using a range finder, you should be able to accurately judge distance and size. While rangefinders are nice, if you cannot accurately range yourself, and its not working, you could be in trouble.

Don't use more than 2 pins, I keep a short range pin, and occasionally put a 45 or so long range pin if I've practiced enough to be comfortable with that shot.

Carbon fiber arrows, you'll save money in the long run (at least I did)

Bring your lunch to the tree if you need to eat while out.

Learn how deer talk to each other, and be able to make the calls (sometimes a grunt won't work, but a snort, or wheeze might make a deer interested if done right)

I'll also say to stay away from expanding broadheads, I've seen failures, a good fixed blade is best, practice with dummy blades if you can.

Make sure that your bow is light enough to be able to hold at full draw for a good amount of time, sometimes you may draw and have to wait for a minute or two in order to clear a limb.

Keep shooting lanes to just lanes, not a whole window in front of you, and make sure that you can shoot from your position of choice (standing or sitting), then leave as much cover around you as possible in order to break up your outline.

Don't trim too much too early, you may be too exposed once the leaves leave.

Thats all I can think of for now, good luck!
 
Any Good Tips

Our toaster needs replacing. Now it seems that we have to do this every couple of years. Any suggestions on a good toaster? One that lasts a long time under heavy use is what I am looking for. I am willing to spend more for one that lasts.

Thanks for any suggestions.

s
Jane
 
Stay ready.

You'll hike, or sit, all day long and might not see a single sign of the animal you're hunting. You'll become lackadaisical and you'll stop paying such close attention to your sounds, the wind, and your movements. That is when the trophy will show himself... running full speed away from the area.

This happens to me in the backcountry on elk hunts. We hike several miles in, and it takes hours to get to the spot where we then begin hunting. By that time, we're already tired and letting down our guard. That's when we begin to see the elk that we spook off.

Stay ready... always!!
 
Get a decent pair of binoculars. Spend at least $125. $300 would be better. 8 power or less. 40mm objective lenses (the front glass) or more. Waterproof would be good.

You'll hike, or sit, all day long and might not see a single sign of the animal you're hunting.

That's were the binos come in. With them you can see animals that are MILES away.

Most guys will hunt the one hundered yards that's in front of them. I hunt that, and the 3000 yds beyond it. Even when bow hunting it's good to know there's a deer two fields over headed your way. It might take 6 minutes, or 6 hours, to get to you, but at least you got a heads-up.
 
Last edited:
Check out local archery clubs. Enter every 3-D shoot that you can. My two boys and I love going to them. It is nice to bring home the occasional trophy. The real value is learning to judge distance. Practice estimating yardage in everyday things. Walking to your car in a parking lot. Spot a vehicle and make a estimation of distance. Then step it off you will become better and better at it.

The other tip that I will give you. If hunting from a tree stand if your taking aim at a animal say 30 yards out. Pay attention to your other pins as well. You have a clear shot but your 10 yard pin is in the middle of a branch 11 yards away. I will assure you the arrow is not going to hit what you are focused on. This has nailed me both in competition and in the field.:(
 
move slowly.......... then slow down.
use your binos a lot........ deer are good at hiding
hunt the wind

practise your shooting over and over. that way when you see the buck and buckfever sets in your body can rely on muscle memory and all will be good


good luck

DSCF1834.jpg
 
Good advice all, above.

Bring someone along who knows how to track if you have never done it. Depending on terrain, this can mean the difference between bringing home the venison or going home empty handed. Especially when bow hunting, especially first time out.
If you can't do that, read up as much as you can about it.

After the shot, watch as long and closely as you can to see which way the deer went. Listen, too. Wait at least 30 mins or so before going after a wounded deer. ALWAYS mark the last spot of the blood trail that you find when it seems to peter out. Limit the amount of trampling about on the blood trail so you don't overlook anything. Look at taller grass/brush for blood. It's not always on the ground. Bring a GOOD flashlight. Deer shot in the a.m. are easier to track in the day, than deer shot in the evening and tracked after dark. Leaving a deer in the evening and coming back to look for it in the a.m. might have to happen, but if there are coyotes in the area, you might not find much and nothing you'd want to keep.

Most bow shot deer, if hit well and it's a clean pass through, will leave a really good blood trail. If not hit well, or hit high, or in the wrong place, there may be very little blood, or some at first and then nothing. Sometimes an arrow may stick in a bone and not pass through, so there may not be a good trail. Don't give up. Too many hunters I've known will give up too easily. It's a sick feeling to leave one out there, so don't be that guy.

Bad hits can happen due to wind, bad range estimation, branch deflection, deer jumping the string, clothing/jacket catching your string, etc. Just do everything you can to make the perfect shot the first time, but be prepared to track if needed.

Good luck!

Edited to add: I found early on that the quickest way to failure is not drawing at the right time. If there are three does in front of you and a buck, they ALL need to be preoccupied or looking the other direction before you make your draw. There is always one old wary doe in the bunch that will tip the others off if she sees you draw. A single buck or doe can be fairly easy to draw on if you wait for the right time. It gets exponentially harder when there are two, three, four, or more deer together. You have to watch all of them for the right time to draw, not just the one you're after.
 
Last edited:
I'll add some more.

With the deer jumping the string, if you have a faster bow (aka anything less than 15 yrs old thats compound) aim a little lower, if they jump they'll crouch down first so they can spring back up, you'll still hit vitals instead of sending an arrow over them.

Tracking. I err on the side of patience when I go to track. I try to wait at least 45-60 minutes before taking the trail (unless darkness is an issue). I do this because I feel that most deer will only run about 100yds if they feel comfortable that you aren't coming after them, they'll bed down and then watch, leaving the trail for a longer time increases the probability that they've bled out once you get there.
 
When taking a shot, do your best to see where you have hit the deer. Using light colored fletching, white or yellow makes it much easier to see where your arrow went. Think of it as tracers for archery. If you even suspect you gut shot a deer, wait at least an hour and then leave the woods. Go back to your camp and wait for several hours before returning to trail the deer. If you can, bring a couple of friends to help look for the deer. The reason for the long wait is this. In my experience, a gut shot deer will not travel far if not pushed. It will travel a short distance and bed down. It may shift it's bed a little because of the discomfort but it won't go far if left alone. If you follow up a gut shot deer too soon, it will jump up and run most likely a long distance. If the cover is thick, you will have a very difficult time finding your deer, if you ever do find it. If you wait several hours to follow up a badly hit deer, you will most likely find it dead not far from where you last saw it. Oh, if you have friends helping you track the deer, have one of you looking for the blood trail and all the others scanning the woods for the deer.
 
i have a labrador retriever called daisy. she does my tracking for me because she is infinately better than me. I understand that your seasons are short and you might not want to keep a dog all year for a few weeks - but dogs, unlike most men, can multitask. She also does coastal wildfowling. and being a family pet and my general mate duties - this is her after going swimming in a local lake with my kids.

DSCF2140.jpg

just taking it easy!


DSCF2234.jpg
 
Here's a good tip if you want to maximize your hunting time: don't get married.
 
yes, best advice yet

" Here's a good tip if you want to maximize your hunting time: don't get married.
__________________
Vigilante troll hunter.



very good! the best advice yet!!!

Or maybe marry the labrador :evil:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top