Any harm in dry firing a revolver ???

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holmux

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Not that I am constantly dry firing my weapons, but it happens, especially after a take down or when playing with the trigger load.
When I unpack a new revolver, there is a little nylon disk inserted in front of the cylinder, I normally insert this disk when I dry fire my revolvers, but are there any harm done, just dry firing the gun empty ??

I have a feeling the firing pin is under maximum stress, when firing ammo, but never really looked into the theory.

I have a feeling there is a lot of Voodoo and superstition around this question, but I would like to here what experiences people have on the list.

Thanks
 
I don't know what the rule is on this but I dry fire a lot and have always done so, with revolvers that is. I have Smiths, Rugers, Colts in sa and da. The only thing that's ever happened because of all this 35+ years of dryfiring centerfire revolvers is that I got to be a very good hand with them. I also have tens of thousands of rounds thru these, and I am sure that helps. Don't worry, I don't know what would break that couldn't be fixed, but I have never had a problem. Chief ;)
 
..I normally insert this disk when I dry fire my revolvers, but are there any harm done, just dry firing the gun empty ??

My 0.2 cents; YES! I manage to break transfer bar on Ruger NM single action and had seen another one with replaced transfer bar. Some folks didn’t have such problem and will tell you that no harm could be done. Well, they might have their opinion, but I’ll stick to mine. If you care about your guns and considering the money you spend on them, you should get snap caps. It is a cheap insurance...
 
"Take the disc out and dry fire away on a center fire. Don't dry fire a rimfire however."

Ok, I'll ask the dumb question, whats the difference?
 
A rimfire detonates the primer by the firing pin crushing the rim of the rim fire cartridge against the edge of the chamber. Much like a hammer striking an object resting on an blacksmith's anvil. If there is nothing (no cartridge) to cushion the blow of the firing pin, it may hit the edge of the chamber, thereby creating a dent.

As this dent increases in size, it will cause misfires by bending the rim of the cartridge into the dent instead of using the edge of the chamber as an anvil. This is most easily seen on a firearm such as a .22 revolver. A S&W Mod 17 or 18 is a good example, because the above is easily seen in each chamber.
 
Hello Onty. My opinion of transfer bar failure and dry firing are not associated. I have to admit you have me wondering maybe that is the case. Much of what I read and take that with a grain of salt is you can dry fire all day long with a Ruger. I personally don't dry fire excessively. I take them to the range but I do occasionally dry fire when I'm playing in my gun safe when it is raining or I'm bored. Please elaborate more.
 
I personally believe in heavy dry-firing. To me, this is the best way to educated the trigger finger with the rest of the body. It is better than actual shooting in one reference, because when dry-firing, one can imediately see if there is a disruption of the sight picture and sight alignment without the interruption of recoil and muzzle blast.

I have a 6" model 19 which stays loaded (until range time) with snap caps made by Pachmyer. These are the only snap caps I have found that will hold up to rigorous dry-firing. I suppose it is because the fake primers are actually spring loaded.

I do think that any handgun can be damaged by dry-firing. I have broken two trigger rebound springs in a Ruger Security Six. I shoot primarily double action when shooting wheel guns, and fast repetitive trigger pulls heat up springs as well as other parts.

Also, if you look at used DA revolvers for sell, check out the firing pin hole. If it is extruded to an abnormal amount, it has been dry-fired to some large degree, and most likely without the aid of some sort of snap caps. I know this, because I have several Rugers and Smiths with this extrusion caused by dry-firing caused by me.

Is it worth the damage? Sure is. The skill set obtained is worth the damage to the handgun.
 
I just can't bring myself to to do extensive dry firing unless there is a quality snap cap(s) in the gun. This may not be necessary but it puts me at ease and does no harm.
 
I always use snap caps - in fact, the guns that are not always "working" (meaning loaded) have snap caps in them as they sit. I just pick them up, open the action to be sure it is a cap & not a round, then dry fire away.
 
I have a 6" model 19 which stays loaded (until range time) with snap caps made by Pachmyer. These are the only snap caps I have found that will hold up to rigorous dry-firing. I suppose it is because the fake primers are actually spring loaded.

I'll have to try those... I was just dry firing one of my revolvers when something fell out of the gun. My heart sank as I knew parts falling out of my gun is a bad thing, and I bent down to see what it was. Well what I found was a little round disk about the size of the bore... puzzled, I opened the cylinder and then immediately saw the problem... the rim had completely sheared off of one of my azoom snap caps and that's what had fallen. The fact I was using .38 snap caps in .357 chambers probably didn't help.
 
The fact I was using .38 snap caps in .357 chambers probably didn't help.

.38 snap caps are fine in a .357. The Azoom's do not last long. I been through lots of those. They are made of aluminum with a sythetic primer. The aluminum rims give way leaving a powder in the action.
 
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