Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by roval, Feb 20, 2022.
Empty cases should work though.
That's actually a good idea. I think you can do the same thing by pulling back on the cylinder release button. However, overcoming one problem may create another, when we are trying to cheat the system. For instance, we don't really need to let the firing pin go full blast into mid air. I have a Ruger 22LR and I would love to dry fire it. My manual says I can. After a couple sessions of dry fire I have a firing pin strike on the cartridge recess of the cylinder. Never again. I use empties or just ride the hammer with other hand. Good Luck!
And turn those cases or snap caps so you don’t keep striking the same spot.
I have tried wall anchors. They are too easy to damage, IMO.
Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
Glad you mentioned the firing pin. I neglected to mention it. Thanks.
Good to know. The ones I tried were cheap white ones I got at a farm supply store.
Everybody always says not to dry fire a 22 rimfire revolver. (Well, almost everybody anyway)
Study this photo, showing where the firing pin hits a rimfire round in my Model 617.
Notice there is plenty of clearance with the counterbore for cartridge rim. The firing pin will not strike the cylinder.
Although generally I do not like to dry fire firearms, doing so a few times will not hurt a Model 617.
Regarding using spent rimfire cartridges, as snap caps, I do not recommend that.
The purpose of a snap cap is to cushion the firing pin as it strikes a primer. If you are going to use spent rimfire brass, be sure to rotate the brass each time so the firing pin is not striking the same spot. Once a rimfire rim has been struck a couple of times, it will no longer provide any cushioning for the firing pin. The pin will fall all the way and the brass will have been reformed and will provide no cushioning at all.
The same with wall anchors. Rotate them so the firing pin is not striking the same place over and over again.
A few more photos:
My S&W Model 17-3 from 1975
A K-22 Masterpiece from 1950
A K-22 Outdoorsman from 1932. Notice over the years it has been dryfired out of battery quite a lot, by all the firing pin hits on the rear face of the cylinder. This revolver happens to be the most accurate 22 I own. I have no idea if the firing pin has been replaced over the years, but you can see that when in battery the firing pin does not strike the edge of the chamber counterbore. Not as much clearance as in the newer ones, but the firing pin does not strike the rear of the cylinder.
swung out by depressing the bolt where the extractor rod goes into. i can depress it by pushing it in with the tip of my plastic cleaning jag. i just want to work the trigger. it's not for trigger control as such the firing pin is not going to hit the cylinder but just protrudes to open space. i have spent brass but i don't want to keep repositioning them every 10 strikes. the plastic wall anchors are even softer than brass. how many strikes before you have to reposition?
basically it boils down to - are there any bad effects from doing this? i would think it is no different from dry firing a centerfire without
a snap cap. though i do use snap caps typically with prolonged dry firing ofbthe revolvers.
i am looking for an eraser i can fit between the forcing cone and the firing pin to slow down the pin but haven't found one yet.
i replaced the rebound spring with a 12 lb spring. of course it is lighter but feels heavier than my model 19 that had a slightly heavier rebound spring replacement.
Has no priming compound to soften the strike.
i honestly don't think that will be much of an issue. that will be overthinking it.
@243winxb I do not dry fire my guns, normally. I only have snap caps for testing.
You should be able to “test fire” the gun with the cylinder out and the cylinder release pulled rearward but then I would think you still have the possibility of damaging your firing pin or peening the firing pin bushing. I do not know this for sure, but if I did that with my gun I am sure something would go wrong…
The old school way would be to just take it out and shoot it. Real world results in real time.
I dry fired both of my 617s thousands of time using plastic wall anchors with no damage to the firearm.
Driftwood Johnson knows what he is talking about.
thanks this is what i am asking. everybody keeps talking about dry firing with the cylinder closed with nothing, spent brass or wall anchors. i will use spent brass if indry fire the normal way and will rotate them as should be done. this is tedious which is why i am asking my question.
actually when i tried pulling on the cylinder release, it was difficult to do and then pull the trigger as it was hard to pull it all the way back. pushing in through the hole was much easier.
OK. Thanks for the report.
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