Any tips for revolver reloading?

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strat81

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I'm going to start reloading for .38 Special. I bought a Lee 4-die set, some 125gr LFP, 125gr SJSP, and 158gr LSWC, and some Winchester brass.

Any tips on die setup, OAL, or any "gotchas" I should be aware of? How much crimp do I need? These will be shot out of an aluminum Colt Cobra and will be mild loads. Most loads will be with Trailboss and Titegroup and I already have some load data ready to try.

I currently load for 9x19, 45ACP, .223 Rem, and 7.62x39.

Thanks gents!
 
I mostly load/shoot 38 spl's. OAL should not be of concern in 38. They have fairly long cylinders so theres not a problem IMO. I don't remember the last time I checked case length. I shoot'm til they crack.

I load for many calibers and I'm quite a fanatic with my reload obsession but, again I see no reason for COL (for this caliber only).

I don't know your weapon but I think that 38's and POA/POI is based on the heavier 158 bullet.

I only shoot my cast SWC and always crimp in the crimp grove with a light FCD.

A very easy to round to load, just as the 45ACP or any straight walls.
 
If you have revolver bullets, they will have a cannulure if jacketed, or a crimping groove if cast lead.

That is all you need to know about OAL. Seat them & crimp them in the right place on the bullet and OAL will automatically be correct.

You need just enough roll-crimp to keep the bullets from pulling in your aluminum gun.

You need to adjust the expanding die to give enough case mouth bell to prevent shaving lead when you seat the lead bullets.

The jacketed bullets just need a slight amount of bell, enough to get the bullet started in the case with your hand.

The less bell you use, the longer your cases will last before neck cracks develop.

rcmodel
 
Look forward to it!!!

I aquired all my 38's in the past year and never knew what I was missing. They are now my most enjoyable, economical, and accurate caliber to shoot.

I'm still experimenting with powders for 38. I started out with Bullseye. Clays and American Select are top notch also.
 
While this is a general safety precaution you should follow for all calibers, be sure to check the powder level in each round before seating the bullet. With many powders, a .38 Special case will easily hold a double charge.
 
158gr LSWC

Bullseye.

3.7 grains of Bullseye behind that bullet, turned out to be a sweet spot for my .38.

Crimp to the cannulure. You've got the Lee 4 die set, so you've got the factory crimp die. Adjust it per the directions, you should be fine.
 
If you've loaded successfully for the ACP you'll have no problems with the .38 Special. It's a very friendly cartridge, and of course revolvers don't care as much as autos what they are being fed. Additionally, it is impossible to dangerously overcharge the .38 with Trail Boss, so if that is a concern I'd begin with it.

Have fun!
 
+1 for Trail Boss. I have been loading this stuff in my 38 spcl plinkers and 30-30 win as well. I absolutely love this stuff and fell in love with my 357 mag (S&W 686 6 shot w/4" brl) that I shoot the 38 spcl rounds out of and my 30-30's. Two weeks ago, I took only these two firearms to the range and had a blast.

Cheers...
 
The only thing I could add to all the above is check your cyl. gap and if it is excessive don't down load to far especially using 125 gr cast or half jacket bullets.
 
I will just add that I've had problems (cases crushed or distorted) when I tried to seat the bullet and crimp at the same time. I went to seating in one step and crimping as a separate step, and my problems went away.
 
I figured I should be safe and mention that while I stand by my comment that one cannot make a dangerous overload with Trail Boss in the .38 Special, one can definitely make a +P+ load with it, which would be pretty rough on the gun and shooter. So if there are any goofballs lurking out there, you cannot just scoop a case full of Trail Boss and go shooting. You still need to get a loading manual, measure out the proper amount of powder, and all that other boring stuff.

There. Now my attorney is satisfied. :p
 
I load 3.5 grs of Bullseye under a 125 gr plated bullet with great results. Lose the FCD, you don't really need it.
 
Lose the FCD, you don't really need it

Don't lose it, it might come in handy when you start loading .357 Magnums to take out the bulge that sometimes forms at the base of a deep-seated bullet. You really don't need it for .38 Specials though. Taper crimp or roll crimp doesn't even matter; they both will work.

3.6 grains of Titegroup is a pretty good .38 load with 158 grain bullets, but be careful not to double (or triple) charge any cases; you won't necessarily be able to tell by looking in the charged case. 3.5 grains of Bullseye might be a better choice just because it's bulkier. (Red Dot is a good .38 Special powder if your powder measure can handle it; it's kind of light and fluffy)
 
I already found most of everybody's recommended loads. That was Tuesday's research. :)

Socaldan, I'm running a Lee Classic Turret.

Bush Pilot, I've used the FCD in every other caliber I have with no problems (except for a minor one in .223 that was caused by my own stupidity and is now fixed). I've heard of some folks screwing stuff up trying to crimp and seat in the same step, so I prefer to separate them.
 
take out the bulge that sometimes forms at the base of a deep-seated bullet.
It's good to remember, if you insist on that, you are also resizing the base of the bullet inside the case to under bore size!

Just a thought!

rcmodel
 
+1.

No FCD die for me with pistol calibers. Don't put a bandaid on it, fix it. :uhoh:
 
It's good to remember, if you insist on that, you are also resizing the base of the bullet inside the case to under bore size!

I know that. That's why I don't use a FCD. But I'm thinking about buying one for .357 just to use on rounds that won't chamber because they are too tight (running about 1 or 2%, which is very aggravating) Wadcutters are the worst because they seat so deep. I sometimes have problems with 5% or more with DEWC's.
 
good info no doubt !!
the only thing i can add is to get consistent crimps is the brass has to be the same length, so i trim mine on the first loading & usually last the life of the case .

GP100man
 
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