Anyone else impressed with the Lee 1000 Progressive Press?

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I started my reloading on a used one. :) The only problems were primers that were sideways, not fully seated or missed completely and a few crushed cases. Went to hand priming solved the priming problem. Then decided I wanted to use Lee FCD with all my handgun calibers. So I bought a used Loadmaster, before I ever used it I removed the priming system. I like Lee equipment in fact that's 95% of all reloading equipment. Have to fiddle with them yeah. But when properly adjusted they turn out fine cartridges. I load only for handguns, .32H&R, .357mag, .41mag, .44mag, .45acp and .45colt four die sets for each of them. So my 1000 now sets in a box, guess I should give it away. :)
 
I get it now with the bobby pin. It gives the finished round a little propulsion effect. Nice idea.

I agree with rushthezep, one great (important) feature of the factory setup on the 1000 powder pro-auto disk is that the disc doesn't return to recharge itself until the shell plate carier is all the way down and has rotated the cases to the next station. With the bungie cord and not having the direct connection to the shell plate carier, it'll recharge automatically and theoretically you could charge a case 2x or 3x, whatever it'll hold. No sense in disabling that safety feature. The powder disk return is best connected to the shell carier as Lee designed it. Doesn't have to be their pull chain but by something that doesn't let the powder recharge until the shell carrier advances to the next station.

But... kind of like disabling safety features on anything else... people do it and usually have no problems. BUT, if it were my press I wouldn't do it. I think the piece of hookup wire solution is a little safer though and works just as good (it won't break). You could probably use tie wire just as well as hookup wire.
 
So Rush, I missed it, what exactly did you do to the gasket/wiper?

I polished the metal on the slide the disk rides on with a sharpening stone backing 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I also trued the bottom of the disks. I use really fine ball powder at times and it will spill a tiny amount over the course of several rounds. I figured a flat and true mating surface would help. It did help. I'll have to take a look at the powder fill gasket. Really I have no problem with the little amount that spills. Easy enough to sweep it into a pile and put it back when I'm done. I still get a VERY consistent throw (accurate to 1/10 of a grain and usually better than that in 20 charges weighed). I'm happy with that amount of consistency.
 
I took a business card, cut it to fit between the hopper and gasket. Basically just shims it enough to put steady pressure to keep stiff from leaking. I maybe leak a half grain or so on 50 rounds and that really is mostly from static at the bottom of the case mouth expander.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S III
 
I got my Lee Pro 1000 used with 4 die sets a 4 thousand primers and 2 # of powder, + some extra pieces and parts back in March for a whoping $180 dollars. I sold all the die sets and primers that I didn't have use for and paid for the press with that money and made enough extra to buy a couple bulet molds and other items. I was looking for a Lee Turret press but at that time no one had them and they did not exist for sale anywhere, so I went with the used Pro 1000.
After getting it cleaned up and tuned, the biggest issue I have right now is when I'm running 9mm, the case 1% of the time will not center correctly in the shell plate from the case feeder and I get a mouth that is crushed on one side. Most of the time I feel it not center and I give it a little readjustment and it runs fine.
I've not had any real priming issues that I didn't cause by not being smooth in my processes, or seeing how low I could let the primers get. Now if I can remove the primer tray without spilling primers and reload it, that is my reload point.
I have noticed that bullet seating depth and case mouth flarring are affected by whether or not your shell plate is full or partially full. If I have a full shell plate the flare will not be as great (can affect seating cast bullets and shaving lead). Same with seating and crimping. A partially full shell plate results in a bit of difference of depth and crimp. But nothing to be too worried about on pistol loads. Just when you're setting up your dies for the first time be aware of this and plan for a slight difference.
Overall impression of the last 8 months. I really like this press. I've learned what I can and cannot do and now it runs smooth as butter. I recently did a run of 1K 9mm using cast bullets. I had 2 flipped primers (my fault) and about 5-10 crushed necks on cases. For the .45 acp, for some reason I have had more issues with the large primer feeding system over the small. I fixed this by swapping out all my Large primer .45 brass with Small primer brass. Now I only need 1 size of primer for my high quantity reloading. If I can get another one for a great price I'd do it in a heart beat for pistol loads.
For my rifle loads I just got a steal of a deal on a Lee 4 hole auto indexing turret press. The only non-Lee reloading items I own are a Lyman kinetic bullet puller, and a Lyman M-die for flaring my .300 Savage brass. But everything else; bullet molds, lead bottom pour casting pot, dies, 4 presses, powder scales, powder dispensers, everything is red and everything is LEE!
 
AHHHHHH

I see what yer saying about the SAFETY on the Powder Drop.....:banghead::D

I havent used the CHAIN in soooo long forgot how it is intended to work....

Now 777funk... in yer pic it looks like a string and a Pen type Spring... how did ya attach it on the Top.. just a knot?

Tried Rushthezeppelin reversed chain/spring trick and works ok but I think 77funks idea may be better

Not as concerned on my .223... no way ta double charge and not see the overflow:p but on 9mm and .357 you wouldnt see it..

Thanks Guys... time for some MODS for Me
 
777Funk,
The most important thing to remember when running a Lee Progressive is working the lever stop to stop. All kinds of problems result from anything less.

I actually do not use the chain return on my Pro-1000 preferring the older spring operated style of powder dropping. I do use the ball chain on the Load Master (More things happening on a 5 station progressive). The Safety chain was actually a late addition to the Pro-1000 addressing safety issues resulting from short stroking the press or the shell holder not advancing correctly.

Vigilance is the key to safety, all progressive presses are subject to the possibility of charge/no charge/double charge. Visual inspection is the key.

Another way to adjust leakage in the safety disk system is to dress the hopper supports with a sheet of fine sandpaper. This brings the hopper down for a tighter fit against the disk. Go slow it's a trial and error kind of thing.

This has been a good thread lots of positive ideas!
 
BTW one question I do have about you guys that do 223 on the 1000. How do you have it setup? The best way I can figure to do 223 with this press is to have sizing/decapping on a single stage then trim/deburr and prime off press. Then move to the 1000 with the spring loaded double disk then bullet seating then FCD in last station. I just don't understand why the setup sold for 223 looks has size/decap, powder and then seating. Don't you HAVE to trim/deburr after using a full length sizing die no matter what?
 
My process.... Keep in Mind... i am Cooking and Prepping for MONDAY NIGHT FOOTBALL... so I may MISS Something.....:p


for $180 ya cant get trim and de-bur..... Just not Possible..... i started doing all aspects... Size and prime..... Powder.... and Bullet seat..... But really tooo slow.... now for Handgun Loads.... SOOOOOOOOOO much simpler.... I can Blow thur them doing all Stages in one CYCLE of the Press......

back to .223...

Tumble and Clean and ready for the following steps:D

1. Size and De-prime with separate Die setup
2. Clean and Tumble.......
3. trim as Needed.... multiple systems available.. i use the WFT worlds fastest Trimmer works SLICK
4. Chamfer and Debur (debur if needed if Trimmed... then De-bur is needed) I dont De-bur unless it really needs it after Trimming....
5. Prime...I personally Prime on my Lee Hand primer.... I can feel the seating, since some .223/5.56 can be a pain... and I can bust out 100 in like 10 minutes watching TV
6. powder drop and Bullet seat.....

With .223 or any Bottelneck case... it just takes more steps..... I Chamfered about 150 brass today in-between prepping for MNF :D

The Lee pro will do .223 Awesome.... but nothing is perfect..........


Anyways... back to MNF Prepping
 
I have noticed that bullet seating depth and case mouth flarring are affected by whether or not your shell plate is full or partially full. If I have a full shell plate the flare will not be as great (can affect seating cast bullets and shaving lead). Same with seating and crimping. A partially full shell plate results in a bit of difference of depth and crimp. But nothing to be too worried about on pistol loads. Just when you're setting up your dies for the first time be aware of this and plan for a slight difference.
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Are you using the lee sizing die on your pistol loads? I noticed something odd, at least with 9mm, the sizing die directions are somewhat incorrect. It says put it all the way down to the shellplate, but you will notice with a round in the die it never will hit the shellplate thus causing a variance on the other stations based on whether or not a round is in there. Basically you just have to back it off until you can fully raise the press with a round in that die.

Other than that I noticed a bit of variance too from the die carrier being a tad bit lose on the top of the press. I've been tempted to find a way to shim it but I doubt it will make a big difference. All my bullets usually seat withing about 5-8 thousands of eachother.
 
I use the 1000 for 223 and it works great. If you fire all the cases out of ONE gun, you should only have to trim them once (at least that's my case). So... I do the following for the first run then save the cases and never do it again as long as they last. But here's the first run:
-Lube and Decap all brass (no other operations happening on the press - take out the primers and turn off the powder)
-Trim using the Lee cheap case trimmer/shell holder. Works great, I chuck it in a drill
-Swage the primer pockets (VERY important or the new primers WILL NOT seat well at all with any crimped primer brass)
At this point the brass is good to go for the future (assuming you reserve it to the same gun)

Now here's where we go back to progressive/normal reloading (and how it will go in the future now that we have prepped brass-the prep only happens on the first time):
-Fill the case feeders with lubed brass
-Resize/decap (decap already done but won't be on reload #2 and beyond)
-Prime/Charge
-Seat

Of course all of that happens in one pull (and quickly). I always take a peek in the case before seating so I can get a visual on the charge. I weighed about 20 charges of H335 and the Pro AutoDisk does GREAT (accurate and repeatable to 1/10 of a grain and better). Works so well.

And to Staveman, it's just a piece of old cloth covered hookup wire but ANY wire will do. And you can reuse the factory spring. I just loop the wire through the holes and don't tie a knot. I do it just like I did with the pull chain that broke... works much better though since it won't break.
 
Rushthezeppelin said:
Sorry, but specifically what is your die setup on the 1000?
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My Die's are just Like you have yours

1 stage one is open
2 stage 2 is Powder Drop
3 Stage 3 is Bullet seating


I find i can go Faster if i De-prime and size all my Brass in one step....... Clean em again..... Trim if needed.... Chamfer and de-bur (dont de-bur unless I trim)
hand Prime..... just faster for me ..
Then hit the Press and Powder then Bullet seat....


And like 777funk said, you dont have to trim after every reload.... I check em about every other... and any Over 1.76 get tossed into my Trim Pile.... I just prepped 200 brass and didnt need to trim any..



777funk.... Gunna try some parachute Cord and see who it works... or something similar in size..... mainly for 9mm since that one I do fully Progressive.... .357 I am paying so close I will consider it as well... but Ill get the 9mm dialed 1st.... I still have 2 chains that are not broken so may try those...
 
Rush, do you see any spillage with very fine ball powders (H335 for instance)?

I'm still curious what the gasket mod is. Did you lengthen the gasket so it extends further down toward the disk? I may be dense here but I can't quite figure out what exactly you did.

I don't let it bother me too much but I spill a small amount of fine ball powders from the pro-auto-disk. It meters to within 1/10gr (usually better) so I don't mind (I find that kind of repeatability AWESOME!). I can sweep the little that comes out into a pile when I'm done and toss it back into the hopper but if there's an easy fix, why not fix it.
 
Ahh ok, I've also used larger flake shotgun/pistol powders and there's very little spillage. The really fine ball powders are a little messier but not terrible either. It's workable but if I could find a way to make it clean as a whistle, I definitely would.
 
Rushthezeppelin said:
Here I took some points of my mods...


Finished round ejector mod:
jasezuhy.jpg

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S III
Click to expand...
The FUNNIEST thing happened Yesterday.......

So been trying ta find a Bobbi Pin in my wifes crap... ya.. like finding a Bobbi Pin in a Haystack :banghead:....LOL

So was leaving Wally World... and happened ta look down in the Parkinglot :what:.... YUP... a Bobbi Pin:neener:


just set it up for my .223.... works AWSEOME..... Now i just need 2 more for my Other Presses:D

Best MOD yet... thanks Rushthezeppelin
parking lots... here i come!!!!!;)

IMG_20131025_103415_078_zps62675697.jpg
IMG_20131025_103453_984_zps73a926c8.jpg
 
Anyone else impressed with the Lee 1000 Progressive Press?
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Ahh, NO

After trying for about 6 months, I got so frustrated I boxed it back up!
Sold it & bought a turret press.

Eventually sold that too & bought a very high quality (expensive) press.
(and I love it)

I'm not interested in bashing Lee, but that's one press they just didn't get right.
 
I'm not interested in bashing Lee, but that's one press they just didn't get right.
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But your going to anyway right..:neener:

If you guys have priming issues just call lee and order a new primer feeding tube.

I did recently and can't get it to do anything wrong.

If I had the money I would go blue but for now the Lee is all I will use.

I also have a turret Ive had for a long time and loaded 1000's of pistol rounds with. I still use to load .223 and it works very well.

I don't think you get your moneys worth going with a better brand until you start using progressives.
 
another thing to try

the 45 ACP shellplate will accomodate 30-06/8mm brass. I remove the die turret and use the 45 primer assembly and I can prime those rifle cases very fast limited only by my own hand/eye coordination. Wayyyy fast.
 
Funny you should bring that up HM1...

Actually, you can entirely load longer rifle cases on the Pro 1000 if you stop the auto advance feature. Just put your rifle dies in there and go to town. HM1 you mentioned the 45 shell plate... that is a great plate as it fits many common rifle cartridges:
308, 30-06, 270, 25-06 (the last three are all 30-06 case variants).

In order to get the shell plate carrier auto advance to stop, you can disassemble the ratcheting gears OR easier... just get a spare 3 die turret for your rifle dies for $6 or $7 and drill out the center so the advance rod passes through it. I'm guessing 5/16" or maybe a little bigger should be big enough to let that rod pass through (it's a 1/4 hex).

I didn't create this idea of drilling out the center of the turret, I borrowed it from someone. The reason the Pro 1000 doesn't work with longer rifle cases is that when it advances the cases are so tall that they're still in the dies and it won't work. BUT... you can manually advance the shell plate and still have a faster than single stage manual/progressive press.
 
Well I've been having some adventures in .223 reloading the last couple of days with my Pro 1000 and have come up with 2 new mods (well both were other people's ideas).

First off I got the case feeder and discovered quickly what everyone else complains about when it comes to using it with 223, the case slider is too short and thus likes to topple the cases occasionaly. Took a piece of trim wood and made an extension piece for the slider. Got a little impatient and ended up using two little velcro stickies to affix it instead as I was having trouble finding my JB Weld. Unfortunately I think I made it a tad too tall and will occasionally get a case that bounces a bit and moves just enough out of the way were I get a double feed of cases. Will update if a more permanent affixing fixes this problem but it doesn't happen too often.

0


Second mod is a poor mans mic charging bar for the double disk kit. Went and got a 1/4" tap and tapped the bottom disk to take a 1/4 x 1 1/2 bolt. This thing works AWESOME and allows me to change the charge without having to turn the hopper off and clear the wiper. So far it has allowed me to very reliably do .5gr increments of IMR 4895 for my 223 load development. I might have to throw some teflon tape on the bolt though as it is a bit wobbly in the disk but other than that this mod ROCKS, might even do a smaller bolt for my smallest disk so I can perhaps pick up some tight group or other dense powder that is too dense for even the .30 cavity (really wish they still made the micro disk set but I'll make do).

0


Also found a really odd way to lock up the shellplate as well. I've been using 2 turrets for 223, one with FL sizer in first station and another with powder drop in second station and bullet seating in third. Turns out the priming ram is just big enough to get stuck in tightly crimped military primer pockets when not priming with it. Had it lock up on me 4 times while doing a big batch of sizing and took it apart all three times. First I thought I had busted the ratchet but it was just dandy. Then I thought perhaps spent primers were jamming it up, nothing. Then I finally thought the priming ram was jumping far enough up into its cavity to get stuck, I was on the right track. Fourth time it happened I felt under the shellplate assembly and sure enough the priming ram was stuck up. Wiggled the case in that station and around a bit and it popped right back down. It's almost like a ghetto swagger (although it doesn't really swag enough unfortunately to be worth anything).
 
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I have had lee 1000's since the eighties- as in multiple presses. Back when I was buying them for 100.00 or less new It was as cheap to buy the whole press than to mess with shell plates n powder measures etc... well within a 20.00 or so if i remember. I tried the caliber changes at first until I realized that. I do keep a few carriers already set up for the less used cartridges but I have.

My best buy was a 1000 in 41 mag for 69.00 on close out :) I got that for dads 41 mag but it is still new in box but needing set up!

I loaded MANY 38/357-45acp and 44 mags in my college years on the lee 1000 and some 9mm and 223 even. I would have to tinker now n again with them like every one else but they are fast- the case feeder was ahead of its time and was nice! I have 5 or so still and am settin them up seperately. I can't get rid of them especially for the midrange loads I love in the calibers I prefer, I have a dillon 550 and a 650 and never did use the dillon 550 I bought 15 years back until this year... the lees jsut always worked for me. I decided since i am older to treat myself to the dillon presses for at least some apps but it really was not a hard need since the lee 1000 and a few rock chuckers did everything...
 
But your going to anyway right..:neener:
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No, actually he didn't. He answered the question about whether others are impressed with the Pro1000. 67 posts were written previous singing the praises of the press and he shared a different opinion.
There were no insults. There were no accusations that Lee products were junk. He simply did not like the press and said so.

Disagreeing with your opinion is not bashing. I know that's the popular opinion for everything in the world nowadays but its incorrect.
 
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