Anyone ever swapped BARRELS on Ruger MKI/II/III?

[BBBBill]

Look at the bolt while in battery with no round in the chamber. Press on the back of the bolt to ensure that it is fully closed. Use a feeler gauge to check space from front side of cocking ears to back side of receiver notch. Note your measurements and observations. Then the next time you get a failure check it again with the round still in the chamber. Then press forward on the back of the bolt to see if it will close all the way.

 

[1KPerDay]

Okay I'll try it...

 

[Slamfire]

Sorry you deleted your post; it may have been valuable to others. The frame has been milled and 1911 grip bushings installed, and there's a Clark bushing in the hammer that is never coming out without being drilled out, and there's a custom extension permanently screwed into the mag release so unfortunately Ruger service is off the table.

Maybe the bushing is causing the hammer to drag?

At some point, you should look at the costs it will take to figure this out, and compare to the price of a new pistol on sale, or a stock box used one. You can always use the old pistol for parts.

If pistol rebarreling is the same as for rifles, you are going to spend $400 to $600.

 

[1KPerDay]

Yeah it has to be cheap to be worth it. You can get a similar pistol now for less than $300. It's more the mental distress caused by not being able to solve this mechanical puzzle.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've had the disconnector bind up the bolt just enough to slow it down. Something to check. Also how freely does the bolt float in this barrel as compared to the other one.

 

[1KPerDay]

Feels identical to me. And if the disconnector or the hammer is the issue wouldn't it misfire with either upper?

 

[Blue68f100]

What I thinking is that there is something inside the receiver/barrel that is binding the bolt. Does the bolt when placed in the receiver/barrel move freely on it's own? There is a part that is rivited to bottom of the receiver ( don't recall the name), Is it tight? How much rotation do you have between the receiver/barrel and lower? Most allow for a little movement. May try tweaking 1 way then the other. All it takes is a part not aligning up properly on the axis to cause issues. I run the Clark bushing in my MKIII, press fit, mag safety removed, LCI in. I use the LCI as a indicator as when it's time to clean the gun. Gun starts to malfunction when it gets dirty.

 

[1KPerDay]

One upper has the LCI in place but neutered (just fills the space). The original has an aftermarket LCI filler. I've shot it without anything in that space and it made no significant difference. I'll check for upper movement. Thanks for trying to help.

 

[Kp321]

The riveted piece in the bottom of the receiver is the ejector. It can get loose and cause the bolt to drag. Certainly something to look at. Brownells carries a machined (versus stamped) ejector that is attached to the receiver by a screw rather than a rivet. Definitely an upgrade worth looking at if the original is the least bit loose.

 

[1KPerDay]

Ejector is tight thanks

 

[Blue68f100]

Have you marked up the bolt fully to check for any unforeseen rub marks? I would use some Dykem and cover the bolt completely. Put the gun together and cycle it a few time, check. If nothing is showing, fires a couple of mags through it. The ejector can be tight and still not be in alignment.

 

[1KPerDay]

Would that suddenly change though? It worked flawlessly for 10K rounds.

 

[BBBBill]

Worked for 10K rounds? Something changed. That's as good a place to start as any. Meticulous examination of each part and its fit with other parts may tell the tale.
My first Ruger Standard Model (still have it) purchased in the early 70s was/is quite accurate and reliable. The only thing that slowed it down was deliberately not cleaning it. I had quite the buildup of lead in the chamber after 8.5K rounds. Looked clean, but it wasn't. Finally ran a chamber reamer in and cut out the lead.

 

[1KPerDay]

Hmmm maybe I'll try that.... it was 98% plated ammo would that prevent leading?

 

[Blue68f100]

22LR ammo depending on mfg vary quite a bit on OAL too. Switching between lead and flash plated should not make a big difference except for the wax lube on some bullets are pretty heavy. I did not recall or missed that this started after 10k of good operation. When was the last time you changed the Recoil Spring, FP return spring. I had one fail less than that. Yes by all means check the chamber of a lead ring build up or carbon ring.

 

[tlynch]

I had quite the buildup of lead in the chamber after 8.5K rounds. Looked clean, but it wasn't. Finally ran a chamber reamer in and cut out the lead.

I know I was astonished by how much lead built up in the forcing cone of my .22 revolver before accuracy dropped off.

The attached picture shows the lead that was cleared out, with a .22 LR case for reference.

Good luck sorting out the problem.

Tom

 

[1KPerDay]

22LR ammo depending on mfg vary quite a bit on OAL too. Switching between lead and flash plated should not make a big difference except for the wax lube on some bullets are pretty heavy. I did not recall or missed that this started after 10k of good operation. When was the last time you changed the Recoil Spring, FP return spring. I had one fail less than that. Yes by all means check the chamber of a lead ring build up or carbon ring.

Have replaced FP return spring 2x. First was broken but working fine. Recoil spring once since problem began didn't help. Mainspring replaced with a polished new one didn't help.

 

[FROGO207]

OP I am glad it is your pistol not any of my Ruger .22's! I will be interested in the resolution as well. Springs and firing pins have been all that I have had for problems in several hundred K rounds between three MKII SS pistols I use for competition.

 

[shooter1niner]

Sharpie markers are an alternative to Dykem and clean off with alcohol. Mark it up and look for where it is removed after cycling the bolt.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

Anyone ever swapped BARRELS on Ruger MKI/II/III?

I have not heard about anyone doing it.

I can appreciate that if the barrel were giving problems, per OP#1, it could become necessary. But it would be a task I would dread. I look at the barreled receiver of my MkII as a permanent assembly, made to be treated as one piece. I have seen Ruger MkI/II barreled receivers for sale, but not barrels.

 

[1KPerDay]

Anyone ever swapped BARRELS on Ruger MKI/II/III?

I have not heard about anyone doing it.

I can appreciate that if the barrel were giving problems, per OP#1, it could become necessary. But it would be a task I would dread. I look at the barreled receiver of my MkII as a permanent assembly, made to be treated as one piece. I have seen Ruger MkI/II barreled receivers for sale, but not barrels.

You can find barrels for sale on gunbroker but almost always are part of parts kits where the receiver has been ordered destroyed by the court and they either cut it up or destroy it while pulling it apart. I've given up on this idea. Still can't get my pistol to work with the OEM receiver/barrel though and it is bugging me.