Anyone have a wilson combat glock barrel?

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in a 40

I installed a Wilson Combat barrel in my Glock 22 (40S&W) several years ago. It was an exercise to get better (tighter) groups, not for competition, just for general hobby shooting.

I did have to "fit" the barrel. By that I mean I had to use a stone and ever-so-slowly take off steel until the barrel would fit well enough to allow the action to cycle. The barrel was much tighter than the factory barrel.

My initial shooting produced groups with the Wilson Combat of about almost half the size of the factory barrel, but the reliability wasn't there. I very slowly continued to work the barrel with a stone as well as shoot it until the reliability was back to the same as the factory barrel. This took some time and gave me plenty of practice clearing jams!

In the end, when reliability was near 100%, my groups were near the same as my Glock factory barrel. Although, the groups were better than what I had started at with factory barrel and I assume that was just the practiced I put in while working the new barrel.

It was a good exercise, but the improvement was minimal.

I never shot lead though, just plated bullets.
 
BSA1 said:
I dunno if I would keep a full size gun that only delivers baseball size groups at 7-8 yards. My personal standard at that distance is all of the shots in one ragged hole. I would test my ammunition in a gun with proven accuracy. If it performs as expected I'd dump the Glock.
While I have seen out of the box Glocks jerk the front sight 1/8"+ when the striker is fired, they do smooth out as round count increase and you can always do a polish job on the metal-to-metal contact surfaces.

Before I bought my last Glock, I had to go through about 5 Glocks before I found 2 that did not jerk the front sight and bought the smoother of the two. Starting with the front that won't move when the striker is released will definitely enhance the accuracy aspect of the pistols but I am kinda OCD that way as accuracy is everything for me.

As modular as Glocks are, I would not dump the Glock and would try the trigger polish first. If the front sight still jerks after the polish, there's always factory 4.5 lb trigger replacement or aftermarket trigger replacement options.

jr_watkins said:
I installed a Wilson Combat barrel in my Glock 22 (40S&W) several years ago ... In the end, when reliability was near 100%, my groups were near the same as my Glock factory barrel.
Perhaps there was a reason why Wilson Combat changed the barrel twist rate from faster 1:10 to slower 1:16. I like Wilson Combat components but 1:10 twist rate was one that I disagreed with, especially since I shoot lead bullets. Since most aftermarket barrels run 1:16 twist rate (with KKM running slower 1:20), I think there's promise for new Wilsom Combat barrels but since KKM is still "drop in" without requiring final fitting like the Wilson Combat barrel, I think that may be the downside.
 
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I just got back from the range and the results of my new load was promising. Best five shot group was covered by a silver dollar right at point of aim at 8 yards. Today i shot my 17 with minus connector and my 26 stock trigger. Believe it or not i averaged better with my 26, the trigger pull just felt more crisp. My 17 has a lighter trigger but its spongy and the break feels eractic. I need to learn to do a polish job on the 17. The 17 did produce the days best 5 shot group but had more bad shots due to me vs. the 26.
 
Good to hear. My experience is same with G22/G27. First time I shot the G27 and got comparable shot groups at 7-10 yards, I went, "What?" as I was used to getting larger shot groups from compact/subcompact models compared to full-size models.

Now, I can get within 1 inch of my G22 shot groups at 25 yards.
 
J, what did you do different today to decrease your groups? Did you try to control the trigger and have the surprise break, did you try the tips that BDS suggested?
So, now you know the gun can do it, and that you can do it, now you just have to do it every time...
That is part of mastering the basics.
 
I did concentate more on getting a suprise break. I studied my targets a little while ago and really only had the one stellar group. I think im having a hard time with the cheap hi viz front sight. I dont think it fits the factory rear well. Fixing to buy a set of dawson competition sights. Trying to figure out if i want a fiber optic front or all black. Or fiber front and rear 3 dot. I do like my p95 small 3 dot setup
 
Well if you had one very good group, then you know that you can do it. Now, just keep working on the trigger. Dry fire practice as BDS suggests will go a very long way to helping you tighten it up. Don't chase the toys too much just yet.
Also, remember item 10 -- sight alignment/sight picture. Make sure the front sight is clear, the rear is blurry and the target is blurry.
Think of it this way -- if your groups are not tight -- how would a different sight affect that? While in can help in some ways -- having an improper sight alignment will only result in POA/POI shifts. That is, you will hit low/high/left/right of your point of aim depending on the relationship of the front/rear sight and the aiming point, but all else being fine (trigger) you will group -- just not where you want it to. Now, if your sight alignment is inconsistent, then you may be all over the place and not be grouping or hitting your POA at all.
Of the two - alignment/picture, work on the sight picture to ensure you maintain the focus on the front sight. Then you can figure out the alignment to ensure you are at POA.
But, again, it all comes back to the trigger. For the record, on my G17 I have the ugly, cheap, plastic, bone stock Glock sights, dot in front and U in rear. One of these days I'll get around to replacing them with something taller so I can use the sights when I put the suppressor on. Oh, and the front sight is loose, but at 7yds it doesn't matter much. At 25, yes, it does make a difference.
 
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