Anyone know anything about compound bows?

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Join An Archery Club!

I don't know much about archery, but here is what I do know.

What I did was join a local archery club. I know of two in LA, one is free, the second gives you your first lesson for free. I'm sure there is something similar in your area. You can't lose.

They told me to come for five lessons, then sign up for the basic archery instruction program. BAIP Class is a 6 week sequential class in archery shooting. By then, you will know enough to make an educated equipment purchase.

The guys are super nice, and I learned a hell of a lot in just one class.

And, it sure is great being able to reuse your "ammo"!
 
Learn more before buying

I am new to bow hunting, 1 year new, and I spent a bunch of time researching bows. Go to many shops, talk to many people, not just salesman, but regular guys that have experience, shoot several, then buy what is best for you. From my limited experience bows are much more personal to the individual than guns. The fit must be precise, the feel must be right, or you won't be very accurate no matter how much you practice.
 
As stated above, fit must be precise. Bows come in different draw lengths and you need to get measured and make sure the draw lengths matches up. In order to be consistent and accurate with a bow, you need to be consistent with your anchor point.

A couple other things to consider with a bow are speed and let-off on the cams. I believe some states still regulate the amount of let-off you can use on a bow when hunting, some competition rules do also. Let-off refers to the amount of relief on the string pull weight after the cams break over.

Bows typically have a published arrow speed, this is based on minimum standard arrow weight per lb of pull weight. The faster the arrow, the flatter the trajectory, just like a bullet. You don't need a super high speed bow to hunt, however the faster bow with flatter trajectory makes range estimates less critical. Another factor here is where will you be hunting? My first bow was relatively slow (and cheap), I could shoot it very accurately in the back yard where I didn't have to worry about the arc on the arrow, then I got a shot at a bobcat first season out hunting and my arrow hit a limb that I never even saw through the peep sight because of the huge arc.

Generally the more aggressive the cams, the faster the bow and the less forgiving the bow. For just starting out I'd reccomend mild cams and even a single cam design, they are more forgiving to inconsistency on your part.

Bottom line, you don't need a high dollar super fast bow to get started, just make sure it fits you properly, and then be aware of the limitations of the bow when hunting.
 
how do you measure for bow fitment? can i go to an archery supply and have someone do it or can i do it at home myself?
 
Compound bows are a very technical hunting tool. I used to hunt with compounds before my hands gave out. By the way I loved it, both target shooting and hunting. It will really get you focused and help your concentration.

I won't cost anything to go to an archery store and get measured, you might want to go to a couple, if there is more than one in your area, and get measured by both.

Like anything else, in archery you get what you pay for, do some looking around and if there is an archery club nearby, go to a couple of meeting to pick their brains.

Good luck!
 
Definitely get your draw length measured , and shoot a few different style , long ATA ( axle to axle ) , short ATA , medium ATA.

If you are getting into archery to shoot alot as well as hunt , you will need a bow that can with stand that much shooting and be consistent.

Check out the local shop , see if they have ones you can try before you buy.

I am glad I spent the extra $$ on the bow when I bought mine , I thought I would shoot once a month or so , it's now more like 3-4 times a week , sometimes daily , even if it is only 21-30 arrows.

Just like firearms and anything else , there are different price points , you get what you pay for still applies though.
 
It's all stuff you can learn to do on your own, but I strongly advise heading to an archery shop near you, because they can touch on a hundred things you probably wouldn't even think about on your own. It is more money, but it is money well spent.
 
I've been bow hunting since 1972 and witnessed many changes over the years.

You can purchase an "as new" Bear Whitetail II on eBay for about $65. This was a great bow in the late 1980's and still quite good in 2009. Features include alloy riser, glass limbs, stable, quiet, and accurate. They don't wear out easily but were sold economically when new due to mass manufacturing techniques. Please do not assume that Bear bows are constructed of cheap components simply because pricing seems low. Fred Bear and Tom Jennings teamed up to bring factory efficiency to bow making.

Go with Bodoodle arrow rest and a Trufire Hurricane release aid. Have the local bowyer tune your rest and install a rope at nockpoint for the release. You can buy the arrow rest on eBay for about $30.

Go with Easton XX78 arrows. Broadheads have gone through many changes. But I still prefer Fred Bear's original design and Magnus Buzzsaw. These broadheads are not stopped by ribs or cartilage; they fly straight through the animal. Please do not be fooled by mechanical broadhead ads. Penetration is very poor and if it were up to me, I'd outlaw this design altogether. My son-in-law has had very poor performance with his carbon arrows and mechanical broadheads. Accuracy is outstanding but penetration is unacceptable. If you disbelieve me, ask Ted Nugent about Magnus broadheads. He has slain far more animals than me with archery gear and he is too wealthy to be bribed to endorse garbage like mechanical broadheads.

Practice at 30 yards but shoot to kill at 20 yards. Success is based upon accurate shooting and components that work well indeed.

Archery does not have to a spendy sport. Consider my suggestions, they're based upon many years of experience.

TR
 
Also keep in mind , some bows have cams that are draw length specific , others have cams that are adjustable for draw length ( ex: Hoyt Cam & 1/2 are adjustable for length , Hoyt C2 cams are not ).

If you just want to shoot target and want to simplify it , look into a recurve ( or take down recurve ).

Just as much fun , but less stuff ( thought not always cheaper ).
The GM II was almost $550.

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as T.R. mentioned , there are plenty of older bows out there , that are still in service. Some people get caught up in the gear race , you don't need to do that to enjoy it and to hunt with.

I didn't have much of a clue what I wanted when my oldest son got me hooked , but by going to a pro shop , and being able to dry different styles , brands , etc. I was able to find what felt right to me. Once I found what I liked , I bought new ( mainly due to the Hoyt Warranty , as I had a feeling I was going to shoot a bit ).

The newer bows will have newer toys , be a bit faster and more consistent , but if you are not shooting competition , how much will that extra expense matter ? Find what you like , practice with it. Later once you have reached the limits of your gear , then upgrade.

You can get into a PSE Deer Hunter for about $229 ready to go from Bass Pro , not the ideal target bow , but then again neither is my Hoyt Avenger , but the X-ring can't tell the difference :)
 
While not a hunter, I am a recreational shooter. +1 on going to a shop to get draw measured and get to know the guys at the shop as you will need to see them once in a while for tune ups, gear and repairs. Do you want to shoot with a release ? All single cam bows need one, twin cams can be finger shot as we as standard bows.
I personaly really like Mathews and PSE bows myself, a good shop with a range will probably let you test drive a few before you buy.
 
Although I generally support T.R.s wisdom and advice after many years experience, and agree about mechanicals, and about not needing the latest $700 whizbang bow to be deadly and accurate, I must disagree about arrows. I'm a big fan of carbon fiber arrows. While aluminum and wood will work, carbons are just plain better all the way around. They are more durable, lighter, and give greater penetration. I've got 3 compounds, 2 recurves (one wood and one aluminum bowfishing recurve), and one longbow and shoot them all with carbon fiber arrows. Except the fishing arrow is fiberglass I think.

Generally, you have to be more careful when buying a used BOW than when buying a used GUN, and IMO you'll want to inspect it in person before buying. You don't need a lot of draw weight either. A 40# compound bow will give a complete pass-through on a whitetail with a good broadhead & arrow. When in doubt, get the lighter draw weight, to ensure good consistency/accuracy. For example, if you're not sure whether to get a 40-50 # adjustable or a 50-60, get the 40-50. If you're not sure whether to get the 50-60, or the 60-70, get the 50-60. And as mentioned, you have to find one that has the right draw length for you and the way you shoot, or an adjustable draw length, adjustable to what you need.
 
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