Anyone refinish a wooden stock before?

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wolverine_173

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So my mosin is cosmetically in pretty bad shape and i saw a couple youtube videos about camo finishes and thought i might try it but i have a few questions. What is the best paint to use i heard of people using (Flat paint) KRYLON, KRYLON FUSION, and rustoleum. Also what clear coat should i put on for protection? KRYLON and Rustoleum i think sell it in a spray can and most youtubers say to just spray a couple coats on. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I am not a big fan of painting wood stocks. No matter what paint and prep I tried they alway got knicked pretty easy. If it was mine I would strip it down, sand it smooth and then put boiled linseed oil on it. Rub a few light coats in, let it sit for a few hours then buff off the excess.
I have done a few Mosins that had stocks that were really rough and they turned out nice. One I used a small amount of Bombay Mahogony stain then BLO and it looked great.
 
Yeah, I agree. I think painting wooden rifle stocks is a sin, especially old battle rifles. But I couldn't bring myself to paint ANY gun. I can't even bring myself to repaint the black parts of my old Enfields.
 
I just strip, pull dents with water and a hot iron, lightly sand and recheck for deep dings. Pull until as close to even, sand and then wet the stock. I use broken glass to lightly scrape the "hair" off. I like tung oil, several coats and they generally look pretty decent. I will use the other method sometimes, depending on the weapon.
 
Finishing a wooden stock

My wife gave me a Stevens .410 break-down for Christmas, 1968. By 1973 or '74, it was looking pretty scratched up. I sanded it and found a really light colored wood beneath the coloring on the stocks. I had a book written by someone that used his rifles out in the weather quite a bit. I kinda followed what he had done to his. You will not get a high gloss unless you add a clear coat for shine. I would wet the wood and wait 'til it dried, then sand it lightly to take off the 'turned up' curls. After a couple of times doing this, I used some steel wool. When I had the wood smooth as glass, I took some Hoppe's stain and mixed it in some boiled linseed oil. I applied it until I had about the color I wanted, wiped off the excess, and let dry. After sanding it lightly or using steel wool, just take BLO and rub some on and continue rubbing until you can feel the warmth from the friction. Wipe it off and wait a day or two, or week, no hurry. I applied probably 12 or 15 coats. Now, almost 40 years later, it looks just like it did when I put the last coat on it. As the writer stated in the book, the ONLY thing that will hurt the finish besides scratches, is fire. I have had to reblue the barrel twice because of letting it get wet and not knowing about it for several days. It was sitting in a corner and a blowing rain got it wet and when I found it several days later, it had already started rusting. Evidently I had no light coat of oil on it! I'm sure that part of the problem was the cold bluing method that I used. What ever you decide to do with the finish I wish you lots of luck for a beautiful, long lasting finish!
 
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Another user of hot linseed oil here. Only for me I didn't even need to put stain in it. Just the oil itself because the color of the stock was already ok. A bone - dry standard stock for a service rifle. Soaked up the oil like a sponge soaks up water. But eventually it stops drinking.
 
Please don't paint it. With a bit of time and work, you can get a beautiful finish. Here is one I did a while ago. I rubbed in several coats of linseed oil.

Before
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After
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Well what I did with mine was I stripped the old shellac off of my M44 with paint thinner, then sanded, and more paint thinner, and more sanding, going from mild coarse to fine. I then did some red oak (IIRC) stain into the stock with 5 coats, one coat every 6 hours, then did 10 coats of Tung oil, once every 12 hours. It turned out amazing.

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Does anyone have a diagram for making a AR-15 barrel vise block. I would appreciate it.

You should start a new thread for that question, more people will see it that way.
 
I used boiled linseed oil until I discovered Fiddes hard wax oil. that stuff is fantastic. I used it on a hardwood floor made from antique oak barnbeams and the Fidde's was recomended by the people that sold me the floor material.
grandpa's old stevens model 66 squirrel rifle
Kingcreek
 
I used Rustoleum for my rifle stock. It is pretty good at protection, and I didn't put a clear coat on and it has held up to some banging around in transport to and from the range and the woods from hunting. It was a synthetic stock, but I'm sure it would work just fine for a wood stock, as long as you sand it down and put some tung or linseed oil on before you apply the paint, as it penetrates the wood. But I agree that I would rarely paint over a wood stock, even if it is in bad condition.

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i am guessing i will be blasted for this... but, i don't like linseed oil on the guns i hunt with. I have refinished several with the matte Miniwax polyurethene finish and believe it to be a superior gun finish, for working guns.
 
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