AR-15 specific needs

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TheHossUSMC

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Hi I am new to the forums, but this forum comes up alot when I'm searching for info so I joined. I have very specific desires for an AR-15 and I thought you guys would be able to help. I have extensive experience with m16s as I was in the Marines, but I need help when it comes to ARs.

Needs in the rifles
18"-20" full thickness non-stainless non-bull barrel
Flat top along the whole rifle
Piston driven if possible/ if not DI is cool

Besides that I want the most basic rifle possible so that it is cheap as I will be modifying the stock, pistol grip, handguards and sights myself. Any input would be appreciated. I would buy an upper by itself if I cannot find a complete one.

If it helps my philosophy of use is that I want a 5.56 platfrom that is mostly dedicated to firing at distance. I am already buying a NFA registered SBR Sig Sauer 556 Swat so I need a longer range weapon in the 5.56 caliber. I haven't decided on a long range weapon yet, but this would be for short to medium range while still being feasible to use in CQB if need be.

I consider short range 50 yards ish and medium 500 yards ish. While on the subject of long range weapons I'm considering a Dragonov style rifle in 7.62 NATO or a full length M14. I like the semi auto option but have also considered the .50 BMG option in bolt action.
 
Call Clint McKee at Fulton Armory.

If you can imagine it, he can build it.

If you want it tomorrow, don't bother.

You should re-think your decision about not wanting a stainless barrel.
The best AR barrels are Krieger barrels, and they are stainless.
 
well the stainless barrel is fine with me. I would prefer to not have to dura coat it though and I don't want a shiny piece of metal sticking out of the end of my rifle.
 
Any reason why you want a piston rather than DI? Whether they're "more reliable" still has yet to be proven. I would really steer you towards a DI gun, as that's what you have experience with maintaining, and I prefer DI over piston anyway. Especially for a long-range gun, piston guns are just incapable of the same accuracy, all else being equal.

The main thing with a DI AR is get a good quality bolt carrier group. Colt, LMT, or BCM are the best. I was going to say you don't have to worry about the extractor spring with an 18"-20" rifle, but I can't find any completely mil-spec BCGs that have the blue insert, so never mind. The carbine spring doesn't hurt anything in a rifle.

Anyway, with a good BCG, just about any brand will do for the rest. CMMG sells rifles and uppers with all kinds of options, though their new website is a lot worse than the old one. I'd call them and ask how much for an upper configured how you want, no handguards etc. I saved like $50 on my upper by getting it with no handguards and no charging handle.

For the lower, this is probably the best deal out there. http://www.bigskyguns.com/CMMG_Lower-CMMG_Complete_Lower_With_6_Position_Mil_Spec.html

$230 is less than you'd pay for all the parts to put it together yourself.

Don't forget you can also sell things. AR-15.com or right here at THR are good places to sell. CMMG only knocks $80 off the price for an upper with no BCG, so I got one with the BCG, and sold it for a lot more than that on AR-15.com.
 
I guess I was interested in the piston design because it seemed like it would keep my bolt carrier cleaner longer. In the sandy middle east my m16 was constantly jamming no matter how clean it was or how much or little lube I put on it. Although I think the main cause of the jamming was sand in the recoil spring. I bet it jammed a dozen times when I tried to rack a round the bolt carrier would get stuck in the buffer tube and I had to jam it with the forward assist. This is the sole reason I bought an AK when I got home. When your weapon jams when it really counts you get alot of stained undies.
 
A piston AR-15 may reduce carbon going into the bolt carrier group, but it still has the same basic bolt carrier group design. If you get sand into either one the effects will be similar.
 
That makes sense. My reservations on the AR platform have almost convinced me to go to something like the Sig Sauer 556.
 
Unless you need to use more than 1000rds to defend yourself, and your out of oil. Then there really is nothing to worry about reliability wise as long as you get a GOOD AR15.

The bad ones will choke if you don't keep them wet, or have poor springs etc.

If you stick to Colt, BCM, LMT, KAC, Larue, Noveske, Sabre defense, you'll be fine.
 
You could pick up a Ar15 chambered for 6.5 Grendel so that it'll shoot long range for you as well. If your going to change alot maybe it's best to build one instead of buying one.

Any longer than a Grendel and your in precision Bolt action rifle or Larue OBR territory. 6.8spc ain't too bad at longer ranges either, and can use a short 16" barrel to do it.
 
I am an Army armorer so I've dealt with all of the problems from the "Box". Your jamming in the sand issue... how in the sand were you? Use the plastic muzzle cap they issue, keep the ejection closed, stuff rag in mag well when not loaded. Unless you were low crawling in the desert with your rifle and you were keeping it clean as ya can and its still jamming up that badly I would have your rifle looked at. Think you buffer or tube were out of spec. Usually the jams/failure to fire are from the bolt running into sand in the chamber area.
That being said, get a good lower and buy an upper with a good barrel if u consider 500 yards "medium" range.
 
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There was a lot of windstorms in the area I was n and sand was friggen everywhere including my buttstock. I consider 500yards medium range because you can effectively engage targets, not moving, at that distance without optics. Being a Marine I doubt I had a very good weapon considering we always get the crap. My concern is loss of muzzle velocity with shorter barrels. Also pencil barrels or m-4 barrels are out.
 
my BCG is Daniel Defense, is that not considered a top brand? I thought it was, and surely it has worked fine. huh.
 
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