AR 15 trigger job

[Red Cent]

After some careful tinkering time, I reassembled my Stag M3. After about a dozen tries with the Lyman Digital, the trigger pull averaged just under 3#s and no perceptible creep. Breaks like the proverbial glass rod. Disconnector works properly and some smart raps to the butt srock with a large rubber hammer will not dislodge the trigger/sear. Next,to the range. As soon as it warms up.

Who else has a DYI awesome trigger?

 

[Liberty1776]

What was the "careful tinkering" please? I just got my first AR, a CMMG, and like any mainstream production gun the trigger could be improved. It smoothed up some just by cycling the trigger - I figure it polished the contact areas a little. I was going to start by doing the same thing I always do on my M1s...use very fine polishing stones to smooth the contact surfaces which generally helps tremendously (on M1s).

Anything else you can suggest?

 

[Red Cent]

And away we goooo.

The steps I used were all gleaned from the internet. They are simple, easy to follow. 'Course, knowledge of the mechanical workings of the rifle helps a lot

I would not remove metal (filing or stoning) from the hammer and sear contact surfaces. Almost every article I read states that the hardening of the parts are very thin. Going through this will allow accelerated wear.

First, I did the "15 minute trigger job".

http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

The next step was:

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html

This is a simple proceedure. If you do this, use a very sharp scribe to mark the area on the back of the trigger platform. I used a Dremel with a barrel shaped stone. Take very little off when you get close. Try the trigger often. The area you are removing is the area where the safety makes contact with the trigger. It occurred to me that if someone would goof up, JB Weld, epoxy, or the like could be used to build up the surface of the safety, then filed to fit. Limiting factor would be that the safety has to go through the hole. The material could be placed on the ground on area and fitted.

I discovered a couple of things doing this mod. Good. It tilts the trigger surface to a more agreeable angle to mate with the hammer shelf. Bad. You may need to remove very little metal from the tip of the disconnector. I did. The trigger has no perceptible creep. Breaks like the proverbial glass rod at 3#s.

I polished the mating surfaces of the hammer and sear to a literal mirror finish.

I have yet to test fire the rifle. The trigger has survivied all the "bump and bang" tests. The disconnector engages properly and releases the hammer to the sear. I like it very much.

Scared you enough? Since no edges were touched, I really believe you could get a 1# trigger with a safe crisp release.

 

[greyling22]

I used those 2 links several months ago. got the same results red cent did and haven't had any problems yet. Perhaps the best dollar I ever spent. I got my cousin to do the same to his gun, and while he has not fired it yet, he reports passing the bump test and a great trigger as well.

I ground off too much of my trigger bar and had to build it back up with jb weld, and the set screw I needed was a different pitch than the one junkyardgenious says you need, so take your grip screw to the hardware store with you. I think mine was 1/4x24 or something. (my cousin reported needing to get a something other than a 1/4x20 as well, and the threads on his receiver didn't go all the way through so he had to buy a tap.)