AR barrel twist vs bullet weight

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DB - It seems like you're really focused on matching up to service rifle competition rules - is that because you really want a clone, or because you want to buy a rifle and be able to compete with it without major modifications?

If the latter, then I'll provide a bit of an update to the rules, as I think it'll make your life a lot easier. The new rules are very different than they used to be. You don't need to build a mil-spec M16A2 clone for "Service Rifle competition" any more.

HOWEVER - for these rifles, you'll want a 1:7" twist, as many clubs REQUIRE 69grn+ bullets, and to be effective at the 600yrd line, you'll want to shoot heavier than 69's anyway. At LEAST a 1:8". My current barrel is a 1:8" because of an ordering mix up, so I can't shoot the 80's or 90's like I want, but my scores are still holding on (when I replace it for the 2017 season, it'll go back to 1:7" or 1:7.7" if I go back with a Krieger).

Possibly Service Rifle competition, but I'm not a serious competitive shooter, so I'm not going to buy NM parts at NM prices.

There are two bodies which sanction "service rifle" matches - NRA Highpower and DCM CMP. Both of these publish their rulebooks readily available on their sites, and effectively, they're VERY functionally over-lapping, as both of these rulebooks reference the other in some sections.

For both NRA HP and CMP, the rules have opened up to allow almost ANY 20" AR with a 4.5lb trigger, A1 or A2 pistol grip, and a non-adjustable gas block, using either iron sights or <4.5x32mm optic. The relatively rare, or relatively low regional level "Military Rifle Matches" (a very specific sub-set of rules) still require service rifle clones, but in the normal service rifle categories, it's wide open. Why do I bring this up? Because the "service rifle" looks very, very different than it did even 2-3yrs ago. Almost anything goes now, so you're not stuck with an A2 stock, carry handle, clamshell, 20" A2 clone.

20" upper halves with fixed carry handles AND in 1:7 twist are as rare as hen's teeth. (I actually haven't found any at all anywhere online.) Closest thing I've found is a Del-Ton complete upper half with 1:9 twist on about an 8 week back order.

Are you dead set on a fixed carry handle, or do you just assume you need one for the service matches? Fixed carry handle "A2's" are no longer required for service rifle matches, in ANY rule set. Almost all of us shooting iron sights are shooting A3/A4's with detachable carry handles with A2 sights. Even in military match rifle rules, you don't have to have a fixed carry handle, as the A3, M4, and A4's are flattops.

Those barrels aren't pinned for a front sight post, so I don't know how to attach the front sight to it.

Barrels which don't ship with it already installed typically do not come grooved for front sights - it's on the gunsmith installing the sight to groove the barrel. Most gas block/front sights which don't come installed on the barrel typically aren't even drilled for the pins either - the installing gunsmith has to drill the block then ream the taper.

So no matter what barrel you buy, if it doesn't come with the front sight/gas block already installed, you'll have to drill and ream the block and the barrel (or have a smith do it).

For example:

410205.jpg

The good news - you don't need an A2 style gas block/front sight any more either.

Fixed front sights - A2 style gas block/front sights - are no longer required in either rulebook. For iron sights, I use a detachable carry handle with a pinned A2 style sight in the rear and a clamp on front sight on my handguard. For NRA HP, gas block mounted front sights aren't required, and haven't been for a very long time. Most guys match rifles are long barrels with the front sights mounted at the muzzle.

In fact, at least in CMP, fixed sights aren't required at all. Last season, CMP allowed up to 4.5x32mm scopes, which is expected to expand to 6x for the 2017 season (has not been officially announced though). I didn't shoot NRA HP this year, but last I knew, they weren't over onto optics yet, but are expected to convert over for 2017 season as well.
 
There is no downside whatsoever to going to a faster twist in the AR platform, and plenty of upside. Go 1:7.5 or faster.
 
Varminterror, thanks for all the info. Yeah, it has been a LOOOONG while since I competed. (It was still DCM Service Rifle.) I'm stuck on the fixed handle and A2 style mostly for just the purpose of an A2 clone and mostly because that's what I used in the military. When I was competing Service Rifle, I was shooting an M1 Garand. (I actually much prefer the M1, in spite of it's obsolete characteristics.)

But you're right, if I'm going to own an AR, I do want it to be match legal, which sounds like almost any AR would be match legal these days.

At any rate, I am still stuck on the whole fixed carry handle part, but it looks like I'm just not going to get a 1:7 A2 upper with a 20" barrel without going to Rock River Arms and spending a LOT of money on their NM upper. =( I just don't see here anyone is making them. I swapped emails with Del-Ton about theirs but they won't sell it with anything other than a 1:9.
 
M-16A1 Had a 1:12 twist for M-193 55grn bullets. Very accurate.
M-16A2/A4/M4sHave the 1:7 twist.

My M-16A1 GI barrel on my retro build has 1:12 twist and is very accurate with 60 grain Partitions and 62 grain Copper and lead core bullets that Fed American Eagle came with. The NON-green tip bullets. Not all 55+ grain bullets will be inaccurate.
 
Midwayusa has a 20" A2 from Olympic Arms in stock right now for $586.

If you want an A2 NM style upper without the NM cost, build it, or have it built.

Without shopping for bargain basement stuff or waiting for sales, you'll be $100 into the stripped upper, $70 into the rear sight and upper completion kit, $100 into a BCG, $130 into a CHEAP barrel, $45 into a gas block & tube, $50 to get into barrel nut, weld spring, delta ring, forend cap, and clamshell handguards. All in for $500. Not too bad, all things considered. Borrow some tools or get a bottle of whiskey for a buddy who knows how to build one and you'd be in business within an hour.

Personally, I'd buy a better barrel. You don't have to drop $500 for a Krieger or Bartlein, or even $400 for a Shilen - a $300 Black Hole Weaponry barrel will shoot very straight (I've never had one shoot worse than 3/4MOA). The difference between the $300-400 match barrels and the $140 bargain bin barrels is well worth the money to me.

If you're putting an A2 fixed carry handle upper on it, I assume you'll drop it on top of an A2 stocked lower - but if you're interested in a carbine stock, the Magpul UBR is the best tele-stock for competition. The ACS is a distant 2nd place for carbine stocks. I have a couple Gen 1 UBR's, and just picked up a demo UBR Gen 2, i don't like the looks as much, but the extra adjustment is nice and the lower price is awesome.

Where are you located?
 
I'm up in the Far Country...the Tundra...the great white north.

That Olympic Arms upper is a 1:9 twist.

And with everything I'm reading you wrote above, about machining sight grooves etc on a barrel, I'm pretty much ready to give that up and buy either the Olympic you mentioned or the Del-Ton. (The Del-Ton is $450 vs the Olympic at $586, but the Olympic is in stock, and the Del-Ton is an 8 week backorder.) Both are 1:9.

Incidentally, the Rock River NM A2 is $815 and 1:8, so I'm thinking that's out.

And yes, I'll put a full rifle stock on it.
 
AK is about the only part of the country I don't service within any given quarter. Was going to offer to bring my tools along on some trip and assemble your rifle, but that won't work for your location.

It's not fool-proof to install your own A2 front sight/gas block, but it's not as difficult as it seems. Leveling and positioning the block for drilling is the most difficult part, leveling the block on the barrel 2nd most difficult. Assuming you have blocks and proper vises, it's still only about an hour job, and doesn't require anything more than a drill press and a reaming tool (pretty sure I bought mine for $15 each, bought 5 of them ~18yrs ago so I wouldn't ever need to buy another - looks like a screw driver).

There are also MANY companies (and individuals) willing to build your upper with supplied parts, or willing to procure the parts even. Many of us have made a business effectively of doing just that - building AR's for folks who want a very specific combination they can't find in the market.
 
Twist has little to do with weigh and more to do with length. A heavy soup can style projectile takes less twist to stabilize than a light long VLD style projectile.
When a twist is said to handle a given weight bullet, that is assuming it is a lead core of a more or less standard shape. Bearing surface is real factor. Example- if you load a 55gr frangible to a 55gr lead core charge it will blow your face into the next county. Same weight bullet but has the bearing surface as a 68gr match. Bearing surface not weight. Thin skin bullets will want less twist or velocity or you see them poof 10 feet out the barrel. To shoot factory rounds makes twist choice a little tougher, load your own and adjustments can be made with speed.unless the plan is shoot extreme weight I would go 1:8
 
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