AR Trigger Choices

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JohnB-40

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I finally bought myself an AR,a Ruger AR-556 with the Magpul furniture. I have been thinking about getting one for a while. The purchase price and where I think the political climate is heading helped speed up the process. I like the Carbine and can see why they are popular,but being a blued steel and walnut rifle guy,I have to adjust to the new. I was the same way when I went from a Colt Commander to a Ruger LC9S for my CCW. Now I wouldn't want to change back....
The only thing I don't like about the AR 556 is the trigger. It has a lot of creep and feels like it has sand in it,so I want to change it. The more I research the more confused of the choices I get. This is a carbine for around the ranch and some target practice,so I think I should stay with a single stage Milsurp,but would like to hear pros and cons for a two stage. I don't want to spend half the purchase price of the carbine on a trigger assembly. Here is where I'm at for choices. Input would be appreciated.

ALG ACT
ALG QMS
BCM PNT
Or if 2 stage....
LeRue MBT-25
Ruger Elite 452
 
I have the ALG ACT on my AR that I built in 2015. I installed the purple spring in 2016, and haven't had the need to go back to the full power spring. The purple spring did not come with the trigger like it does now. It was a separate part. I've thought about a more expensive trigger, but right now the ALG works just fine.:thumbup:
 
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AR15 triggers are generally easy enough to replace without a 'smith. While I do understand buying a basic AR15 rifle, I own a few myself, I never saw the trigger I put in it as buying "that trigger" for "that rifle". If you buy a great AR15 trigger, keep it. Sell the rifle, put the original trigger back in.

The Geissele Automatics triggers are a great value, for a great trigger. My favorites include Hyperfire which is certainly not cheap.

But, just like good glass, a good trigger comes with it's own rewards. Especially with AR15 where it's fitment is guaranteed for life no matter what rifle you end up with.

I've never met a rifle that can outshoot it's trigger or 'scope.
 
I started with a mil-spec trigger in my "basic" AR - had no trouble hitting pop cans at 100 yards standing offhand. I've since installed a Rock River 2-stage National Match trigger, which has improved my accuracy with that gun. More recently I bought an already-assembled lower with a Timney competition single-stage trigger in it. Different feel, but roughly the same result. YMMV.
 
Honestly I'd try a PSA Enhanced Polished Trigger (EPT) before spending a lot on a trigger. They're basically a mil-spec trigger that's been cleaned up. No grittyness, no creep, and only $30.
 
When it comes to AR triggers (fire control group), you need to pick one to fit the type of use you will be using the AR for.
There are a bunch of one piece drop in triggers that are great and start around the $100 range and go up. These triggers are great for the range and match guns, but are not what I would recommend for a duty type gun. A duty type gun is one that you plan to use for home defense and the range.
For a duty gun I like the AGL A.C.T. Trigger or the Hiperfire Heavy Gunner. Both of these triggers break clean with no creep, but keep you at a 4 to 5 lbs pull.
The Hiperfire will run a little more then the ACT. I have both and like the Hiperfire a little better.
The LaRue MBT trigger is great. I have two of them, but these art in hunting rifles.
The PSA EPT trigger is much better then the standard Mil-Spec trigger but just not as smooth as the ACT and Hiperfire.
 
...The only thing I don't like about the AR 556 is the trigger. It has a lot of creep and feels like it has sand in it,so I want to change it...
The AR trigger is intentionally designed with a long sear engagement to prevent unintended discharges from rough handling and potential doubling. The difference between a single stage AR trigger and a two stage AR trigger is the weight of the creep. In a single stage trigger, the pull weight is the same from the beginning all the way until the sear breaks and drops the hammer. With a two stage trigger, the initial travel (first stage) is light until just before the sear breaks. At this point, the two stage trigger has a sharp increase in pull weight. Many describe it as running into a wall. The pull weight increases at this point and travel to sear break is short. Compared to a single stage, the break feels like there is little to no creep.

There is little you can do about the creep in the factory trigger (at least not without compromising the safety of the trigger). But there is something very simple you can do about the four and a half loads of sand and gravel that comes with most standard AR triggers, from the comfort of your living room couch.

Separate your AR into its two halves. Cock the hammer and firmly grasp it between finger and thumb. Push forward a little bit, then press the trigger. Do this a few times, then check to see how the trigger feels. If it's still gritty, do it again. Once the trigger gets smoothed out, remove the trigger group from the lower and clean it thoroughly. Lubricate the sears, the bottom of the hammer and the pin holes with clean grease (just about any good grease will do) and re-assemble. Test the trigger for feel and function. The trigger should be significantly smoother. If it's still a bit gritty, you can continue working with it to smooth out the pull even more. This won't fix the creep, but smoothing out the pull will give you trigger that will be the same every time.

Be careful! Don't let the hammer fall against the lower as it will cause damage. Keep the hammer pinched between your finger and thumb while working and testing. A thick piece of leather, rubber, nylon etc. can be placed between the hammer & the lower to protect the lower from damage.

Don't over do it! Too much pressure against the hammer can damage the sear. Be patient. Do a little at a time and test the pull frequently. You'll soon develop a feel for it and it won't be long before you notice an improvement.

Do not succumb to the temptation to take a set of stones to your AR trigger to smooth it out. AR triggers are case hardened and the depth of the hardened steel varies from trigger to trigger. It's all too easy to cut through the case hardening and expose the soft material underneath. Once that happens, the trigger group will wear quickly and will soon start doubling. There are those that have stoned or polished their AR triggers successfully, but there are just as many who cut too deep.

Once you've smoothed out your trigger, go shoot the rifle. One reason new AR owners find the dizzying array of trigger choices confusing is lack of experience. The more trigger time you have, the easier it will be to start sorting out the various triggers and figure out which one you want. Or that the factory trigger now works just fine for you.

Whatever you decide, clean and grease up your trigger. Even the most refined Geissele trigger will be gritty without lube.
 
Skip the ALG QMS. I was disappointed in mine.

I like the ALG ACT trigger.

I have a PSA trigger in another AR that I like. Heavy pull but crisp let-off. It came with my PSA budget build. I may have just got lucky. Since my objective with this gun was to see how good of a gun I could get on the cheap I am unlikely to change it. I would pass on the EP trigger as the ACT does not cost that much more.

I need to buy two more trigger groups. The Hiperfire is at the top of the list for one of them.
 
Thank you for your replies guys.
I'm grateful to you MistWolf,your advise has saved me some hard earned coin. I followed your instructions and removed the FCG,cleaned and lubed it with ALG's very thin grease on the pins and Mobil 28 on the sear. The trigger is so much nicer now and is something I can live with. Maybe sometime in the future I might go with an upgrade,but for the tasks I bought the carbine for,it is fine. I'm just getting used to how modular this carbine is. The thought of taking a trigger assembly apart on any other of my rifles when new (or now),would have been quickly dismissed.
 
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