AR trigger

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yotesmoker

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I'm not much on taking an AR apart.I need a better tigger in my colt 6920.It has the large trigger pins [170] and the sear block.Know of any smiths that I can send them just my lower to have a target trigger put in?
 
The lower is a piece of cake to take apart, and Bill Sprinfield does great work:) AR15.com has vidios to help you along.
 
like I posted,I don't want to do any of the work myself.I'm looking for a smith to do it.I just don't trust my ability.Just smiths please.
 
sorry, I got the impression that you weren't real confident about tinkering, not that you didn't want to at all. I was not trying to derail the thread.

but most ar's with "trigger jobs" have just dropped in an aftermarket trigger. any gunsmith can do that. just hand him the gun, the trigger you picked out and $50 to cover the "hour" he spends installing it.

most AR factory trigger parts are just hardened on the surface, so you don't see much on the way of people stoning sear surfaces and the like. timney, rock river, jewel, jard, there are lots of triggers to choose from. most range from $150 to $250
 
I would think any local gunsmith could handle this. If you can't find one locally, send me a PM and I'll hook you up with some in TN, but honestly, that would just be a lot of wasted shipping.

However, I'd recommend picking the target trigger you want and buying it and then sending both to the gunsmith.

I'd further recommend not putting a target trigger in a 6920. It's really not a target rifle. If you're just looking for a better trigger, you can get some nice single-stage triggers, but nothing will be as reliable as the trigger that came with it.
 
I had a Bill Springfield triggerwork.net job on my ar. Usually great work and good pricing. Perhaps I had the proverbial lemon as my returned stock trigger proved to operate differently than intended. Being sent back did not remedy the issue. He made good on it then and started over with a whole new FCG kit which is reliable but instead experiences delayed reset from a hessitant disconnector release.

All this to say, I think aftermarket triggers are safer\more reliable approach, than modifying a single stage IMO. If you got the money safe yourself the headache?

..but I wanted to spend $39 not 3-4x that :neener:

Taliv knows what he's saying a modded single stage will not give you the same peace of mind as stock.
 
The trigger in my M&P15 was modified by Bill Springfield......I couldn't ask for anything better. I have two more than need to be done....and I'll send them to Bill too.
 
If you want a really good trigger, Jewell and Gisselle make excellent fully adjstable drop in's in large pin configuration. I put Jewell's in both of my Colt's 12-15 years ago, just followed the directions.
 
If you can put a chain on a bicycle, you can replace an AR trigger.

There is absolutely nothing to it.

Remove pistol grip.
Catch the selector spring and detent.
Remove selector.
Drive out the two trigger pins.
Take out the trigger parts.
Put in new trigger parts.
Re-install trigger pins.
Re-install selector.
Re-install selector detent and spring.
Re-install pistol grip.

How hard is that?

It can be done with a nail, a hammer and a flat-head screwdriver in about the same amount of time it took me to type this.
 
first time I put the trigger pin in through the receiver, trigger, disconnector, trigger, receiver it took 3 hands and 15 frustrating minutes. second time to 20 seconds and 2 hands. it can be easy, it can be not so easy, but it's still doable. and maybe a drop in aftermarket trigger is an easier install.
 
If you are planning to take that "battle" rifle and turn it into a bench gun, then there are a lot of adjustable and non adjustable triggers that you can choose from. Unless, you talk high dollars, just about any trigger that you get will involve going with lighter springs. One guy even mentioned cutting springs. You NEVER want to do that on a rifle that has to be dependable. ALL of the "match" trigger kits that I've seen from Bushmaster, LMT, Rock River, etc., use some sort of reduced power springs. They are after all, "match," triggers. The only trigger I know of that significantly smooths and reduces the trigger pull without sacrificing any sort of reliability is the Geiselle SSA trigger. The kit is a two stage, with about a total 4.5lb pull and uses full power springs.

Unless you are getting a trigger kit that requires adjustment for engagement and over travel (that you don't trust yourself to do), sending it to a gunsmith is a waste of money. Removing the trigger and performing maintenance on it is something that will NEED to be done at some point and you should know/learn how to do it. All that is required is the removal of two pins and the only tool that is needed is the tip of a bullet.
 
I don't know why I have a fear of taking a ar apart BUT I do.I can take a ruger mini,ruger single action,S&W revolver,and any 1911 apart completely but when reading the ar manual I feel a slight panic.
 
I don't know why I have a fear of taking a ar apart BUT I do.I can take a ruger mini,ruger single action,S&W revolver,and any 1911 apart completely but when reading the ar manual I feel a slight panic.
Get over it....its easier than a M1911.....once you do it you will say "that was it?"

really...give it a try...you can't mess anything up that someone here can't help you get it fixed right....

:D
 
The adjustable trigger grip screw is a better deal: 1) you don't disassemble the fire control parts, 2) it adusts the travel and creep out just like the $150 ones.

It delivers most of the advantages without any of their negatives, which include increased risk of negligent discharge, increased failure to ignite primers, high cost, and zero guaranteed improvement in MOA.

Unless you can actually shoot 1/4 MOA with that gun, you can't see any improvement with a target trigger. Save the $100+ and put it to a better optic or more range time.
 
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