Ar15 barrel removal questions

[JBrady555]

Hey folks I recently built my first ar15. It was a home defense setup that I put way too much money in for its use, but I didn't want to spare any expense for my first build. The gun is awesome but I now want to start a precision build and am considering replacing a few expensive parts with budget stuff so that I can use the expensive stuff on my new build. The two main things I want to replace and transfer to the new build are my vltor mud upper and my geissele trigger. My question is regarding re using the upper. Can you over stress the threads on your upper by constantly changing out barrels and torqueing the barrel nut? Once a barrel is installed on a upper should it be left permanent? I'm gonna buy a cheaper 60 dollar upper for my hd gun along with a spikes trigger to match the rest of my spikes lower. Thanks for any info.

 

[dogmush]

If you used the right torque spec and anti seize, it should be able to be taken on and off just fine.

If you didn't use anti sieze it's risky to take the barrel nut off due to galling. It's riskier, the longer it's been on and the more times it's been heat-cycled.

 

[JBrady555]

If you used the right torque spec and anti seize, it should be able to be taken on and off just fine.

If you didn't use anti sieze it's risky to take the barrel nut off due to galling. It's riskier, the longer it's been on and the more times it's been heat-cycled.

It's only ben together for a few months. And only had 100 rounds through it. I can't remember what I put on the threads if anything, but I do know I followed the manufacturers instructions completely being my first build. It was a spikes barrel nut. Also I used a torque wrench on the nut, so it shouldn't be over tightened.

 

[JBrady555]

I remember now that I used white lithium grease on the threads.

 

[Onmilo]

I have replaced barrels on a number of AR/M16 rifles, some having been installed by Hammy the Super Gorilla.
Once the old barrel was removed, there was no problems with the reinstall.
In extreme cases the barrel nut must be carefully cut off

 

[1911 guy]

If you greased the threads and used a torque wrench, I can't imagine you'll have problems getting it off. I agree with dogmush on this one. But I also can easily see Onmilo having problems if working behind a ham-fisted assembler who used German Torque.*

*Gutten Tight.