AR15/M16 barrel installation.
- Thread starter dadman
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Badger Arms
Member
You don't use anything on the threads. Torque it down to the specified value (can't recall, look it up). Once you've done that, loosen it and torque it down again. Repeat this procedure one more time and then back off till the upper lines up so you can get the gas tube through. That's it. Won't back off, no need for anti-sieze or locktite.
rugerfreak
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- Dec 25, 2002
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Molybedium Disulfide grease is the ONLY thing to use. Available at Auto Zone for less than $3 for a tube(grease gun style).
Don't ever use Loc-tite for that application.
Don't do it "dry" if you ever plan on replacing the barrel on the upper receiver.
And go to AR15.com and lurk around for answers to all your AR questions.
Don't ever use Loc-tite for that application.
Don't do it "dry" if you ever plan on replacing the barrel on the upper receiver.
And go to AR15.com and lurk around for answers to all your AR questions.
I was planning on using MolyDi grease.
Rifle will have a 20" government profile barrel, flat top upper, and Cavalry Arms MKII lower.
I think Martin using Loctite is more for Match type rifles where security and no movement is a concern. I recall seeing elsewhere where some shooters replace the upper and barrel together, maybe due to Loctite?
Have been to ar15.com and read some debates about barrel torque.
I plan on screwing the nut by hand, then line up the hole using a wrench. Done this once before with good results, and seems to be the preferred method at ar15.com and with some other names in the business. I won't use the triple torque method.
Rifle will have a 20" government profile barrel, flat top upper, and Cavalry Arms MKII lower.
I think Martin using Loctite is more for Match type rifles where security and no movement is a concern. I recall seeing elsewhere where some shooters replace the upper and barrel together, maybe due to Loctite?
Have been to ar15.com and read some debates about barrel torque.
I plan on screwing the nut by hand, then line up the hole using a wrench. Done this once before with good results, and seems to be the preferred method at ar15.com and with some other names in the business. I won't use the triple torque method.
rugerfreak
Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Messages
- 492
The spec is 35 to 80 foot pounds IIRC.
Torqued mine(using the grease) to 35 then backed off--------reset the wrench to 80 and hit it again till the spaces lined up---the wrench never broke at 80-----so I'm definitely over 35 and less than 80-----she shoots like a champ BTW.
Torqued mine(using the grease) to 35 then backed off--------reset the wrench to 80 and hit it again till the spaces lined up---the wrench never broke at 80-----so I'm definitely over 35 and less than 80-----she shoots like a champ BTW.
Don of Kalifornia
Member
I'd use anti-sieze, as the problem putting the threads together dry, is the threads will gall, making the upper useless to ever try to install another barrel on. even worse is the threads may gall before fully torqued causing thread failure and then needing to replace the upper and maybe the barrel nut.
As years as a mechanic, you never put threads together on aluminum with out anti-sieze or at least a moly- based grease.
As years as a mechanic, you never put threads together on aluminum with out anti-sieze or at least a moly- based grease.
Wildalaska
member
If you send me an email, I will Check with our AR guy and let you know (ex military match armorer who has built about 350 ARs for us)..
Dont use Loctite.
Dont think you have to loosen or tighten
WildgettinmeanewFALAlaska
Dont use Loctite.
Dont think you have to loosen or tighten
WildgettinmeanewFALAlaska
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