AR15 Recce Build - LMT lower or Noveske lower?

LMT or Noveske?


  • Total voters
    36
  • Poll closed .
Status
Not open for further replies.

Sylvan-Forge

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
1,224
Location
Fort Myers, Florida
Difference in cost is not important.

LMT defender complete lower receiver which includes: Semi-auto standard trigger, collapsing buttstock and ergo pistol grip $330

Noveske N4 semi-complete lower receiver without trigger group or stock. Includes H-buffer with mil-spec spring, staked mil-spec receiver extension and Tango Down pistol grip $318


I plan to use a Magpul MIAD grip, Magpul stock, Magpul trigger guard and JP fire control unit, so anything redundant will go into the spares bin.


Who do you think will give the most attention to pin hole placement and overall machining?

Which bare lower receiver do you believe is superior?


Thanks for playing! :D
 
Flip a coin. You can't go wrong with either choice. ;)

.

But if I did have to choose, I would go with the Noveske just because they are based right here in Orygun.. :neener:
 
Mercedes-Benz or BMW? Châteauneuf du Pape or Dom Perignon?

If you compared the function of the LMT, Noveske and bargain-bin milspec stripped lower, I'd bet you an Aimpoint that there would be absolutely no difference whatsoever. You will be paying a premium for Noveske and LMT and not getting (or, taking out) the parts that actually make them better options than your run of the mill maker. You're taking out the FCG and switching out the grip and stock...what's left in the lower that's worth any premium?

I'f you're going to put this together yourself (which you're essentially doing), I'd buy a Stag lower and put the savings into something for the top half, where the top shelf makers really are significantly different in performance than, say, Model One Sales.

Mike
 
You're overthinking this. In the lower half, especially a lower half where you're taking out the internals and stock and adding your own, there is no difference. Buy one or buy the other. Or buy a stripped generic lower. There is no difference, except price and maybe fit/finish. In that case, buy the one you think is prettier. A lower is a lower is a lower. Unless it's a Hesse, then it's a paperweight.

The top half and the internals (fcg, etc) is where you need to spend your time deliberating.

Mike
 
Personally? I wouldn't get either, but that's just me. It's a lower. You're paying a premium for the logo.

Mike
 
Well, been digging around comparing some prices, figured I'd share my findings for any interested:


Stag lower receiver $125
Stag lower parts kit (LPK) $66
Stag A2 stock complete $60
Total $251

Stag complete A2 lower assembly
Total $285


Anvil Arms lower receiver $100
Anvil Arms lower parts kit (LPK) $55
Anvil Arms A2 stock complete $85
Total $240

Anvil Arms complete A2 lower assembly
Total $250


RRA lower receiver $155
RRA lower parts kit (LPK) $70
RRA A2 stock complete $60
Total $285

RRA complete A2 lower assembly
Total $275
 
I've actually been doing a little digging, and wondering to myself, if there really is a significant difference. Lowers really are lowers, no real quality difference between brands, forged, machined, carbon-fiber, (other than weight)?
I would say that IF the lower is in spec (made of the right stuff, properly heat treated, made in the right shape with holes in the right places), a lower is a lower is a lower. There are very minor differences like high shelf and low shelf, which really only matter if you have full-auto FCG stuff (as I understand it, please correct if wrong), and exceedingly minor differences in weight/durability due to the type of aluminum used.

The main things that people upgrade or pay premiums for in the bottom half are the trigger group, the stock, trigger guard, grip, bolt catch, safety-selector lever, (and maybe) mag release. None of those are permanent parts of the lower. All of them can be changed out. Is it worthwhile to pay a premium for a lower that comes set up with all of the things you want? Sure. But if it's not set up that way, if you're going to buy a Noveske lower and then proceed to change out the trigger, the stock, the grip, the bolt catch, the safety selector, the trigger guard, I see no reason to pay for an expensive lower and then take out the premium parts and replace them with other premium parts (for which you also paid a premium). Just get a plain jane stripped lower, buy the parts you want, and be done with it.

Mike
 
Get the RRA lower, for the good trigger.
Why? He's not going to use the trigger. He's going to take it out and toss it in the spares bin and install a JP trigger. Why pay for a trigger you're not going to use and a logo?

Mike
 
IIRC, the JP is a good single-stage "combat" trigger, which is probably more what he is going for, as oppsoed to a match trigger. But I agree, I love my RRC NM trigger, and I have not had any problems with it at all.

Mike
 
I'm hungry too :(
I predict I'll be on the raman noodles diet system for a bit .. but hey, it's worth it :D

What I've mostly found is that the lower is not a highly stressed part ..
however, I do want the durability (and the peace of mind) of a forged and mil-spec component. Getting answers out of the companies involved has been something of a disappointment. Some say they are mil-spec finished (anodized) but don't say whether or not they are forged, or vice-versa.
Often there is no mention of heat-treating. Most of them won't say who furnished them with the forging. Heck some could be cast, being advertised as forged.

I figure if I gotta bash some zombies, the equipment better be up to snuff.
As to spares, well, spares are good, no? What if, in the bashing of said zombie, the buffer tube gets bent :p
 
You're still overthinking this. :) The only lowers I have heard of being bad are some Olympic ones (older ones were known for being out of spec, sometimes), and Vulcan/Hesse. I've never actually seen a failed lower or a lower with out-of-spec machining. I've heard of them. I've seen pictures. But I've never seen one.

Many of the makers out there buy their lowers from the same company, with different logos and different grades of finish. They're often literally the same exact thing. Now, that's not across the board, but it is very common. Buy a lower from one of the companies frequently discussed and press on. If you feel better paying $200 more for a Noveske or LMT lower, do so. Don't think you're getting $200 worth of performance increase on the lower, but if you're looking for peace of mind...

Stag, RRA, Armalite, Colt, Bushmaster, Essential, Anvil, Doublestar, CMMG, Mega, most of the other brands named here will be 100% fine, and the reason the companies don't want to tell you who provided them with the lower is that in many cases you'd be getting the same answer. ;)

Consider what would happen if someone started making badly cast and/or out of spec lowers. Arf.com would be in flames, since there is a LOT of institutional knowledge over there (and a lot of tools and fanboys), and they're not known for their reticence to speaking their mind about something they think is bogus. Instead, Arf.com pretty much notes that it doesn't really matter. And if it doesn't matter, it doesn't matter.

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top