Arken Scopes comparison and testing (in progress)

"Its not the fall that kills you, its the sudden stop at the end."
I think sudden acceleration and deceleration is more critical than peak velocity for those kinds things......and ......most of mine are drop tested.....not on purpose mind.

I did kill one by dropping it directly on the top.....on the edge of my gun case...with a 12lb rifle attached.....
Scopes are pretty much made to take the forces from front to back but side shock can be pretty bad on scopes. I still can't believe I didn't damage that swfa ss10 when I slipped and slid down that step hill with the rifle across my back, snow covered frozen ground looked like a tiny tractor plowed two furrows for 8-10 feet and plows were the turrets of the scope.
 
Scopes are pretty much made to take the forces from front to back but side shock can be pretty bad on scopes. I still can't believe I didn't damage that swfa ss10 when I slipped and slid down that step hill with the rifle across my back, snow covered frozen ground looked like a tiny tractor plowed two furrows for 8-10 feet and plows were the turrets of the scope.
Everyone I've talked to has said those things are basically bombproof.
 
Thats good! Those were supposed to be really nice, and I'm kinda bummed I was too broke to buy one when midway was closing them out.
Those stupid Crimson Trace closeouts caused me a lot of work and quite a bit of $$$.
I got one of the little 1-5X just to check out the whole first focal plane thing.
One thing lead to another and now I have 10 FFP scopes 4 of the CTs the 4 US Optics and 2 Arkens.
 
I've had a Forge (Nephew has it now), and it's a great scope, so at the sale price it's a no brainer for anyone in need of a FFP scope like this.


The Match Pro is also a great deal at this price if that's what you need.

 
I've had a Forge (Nephew has it now), and it's a great scope, so at the sale price it's a no brainer for anyone in need of a FFP scope like this.


The Match Pro is also a great deal at this price if that's what you need.

Just be aware that Forge has the g4 reticle like my 2-16, and unless they changed the size, that big center dots not great for precision.
 
Just be aware that Forge has the g4 reticle like my 2-16, and unless they changed the size, that big center dots not great for precision.

Center dot reticles are not the best for precision but are excellent for fast target acquisition. When I was shooting my 18" 223 Wylde AR at 100 yards for groups, I had to offset the slightly to get good groups with my Swampfox Arrowhead 1-8 LPVO.
 
1800-1900 (based on drops) ill figure out what the numbers are as closely as i can.
Only scope I grabbed pictures with was the EP5
25x
IMG_20231001_145939.jpg

16x
IMG_20231001_145857.jpg

10" plate at 1k
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The only rifle/scope combo we had that got there without alot of hold over was the 28 Nosler and the EP5. The 7Prc and the Ares was about 15moa shy.
The CMs were 40 for my dads s3 (20moa rail) and 40+ (my cm has a zero Rail, but the X5 has a decent amount of adjustments). I ran out of reticle on the X5 also, it has 22moa in it.

Cheap gotsky spotting scopes did well also!

Our targets

100 check zero
IMG_20231001_112523.jpg

500yds
IMG_20231001_112114.jpg

700yds
IMG_20231001_112408.jpg

1000yds
IMG_20231001_112125.jpg

Too many yds
IMG_20231001_112500.jpg
 
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I like the floating dot when its fine. I actually like this one too, but its larger than most non-hunting floating dots. 3/4moa or so.
Back to the original topic I think the Arken center dot is close to perfect for PRS precision.
Center dot reticles are not the best for precision but are excellent for fast target acquisition. When I was shooting my 18" 223 Wylde AR at 100 yards for groups, I had to offset the slightly to get good groups with my Swampfox Arrowhead 1-8 LPVO.
Yeah the center dot on the Crimson Trace LPVOs are big really need the right size bullseye to attempt precision.
I really like the US Optic TS-8 reticle for close to midrange.
Sorry don't have outside pics
At 1X illuminated
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At 8X
20220927_141833.jpg
 
I've been somewhat of an optics snob for quite some time, but over the past year or so, I've become a fan of Arken optics.

I have and have had Nightforce, Trijicon, Steiner, Swarovski, Khales, etc. I'm not gonna say that the Arkens are as good, but from a practical standpoint, the Arkens are more than good enough in most situations at a fraction of the price. The Arken internals seem stout.

I first got an SH4. It was very nice for the price, but I needed a bit more resolution, so I got into an EP5. It was a nice step up.

I recently got a Ruger American Predator in .308 as a woods beater, hunting rifle and ordered an EPL4 for it. It should make for a nice package with the lighter weight and capped windage turret.

What I'd like to talk about is the elevation turret and zero stop. I've seen people complain that the zero stop doesn't stop at zero and criticize the lack of a turret lock. There are work arounds.

The position of where the zero stop stops is controlled by a ring. If you look closely around the perimeter of the ring, you'll find three VERY small set screws. If you loosen these screws, the ring will turn. You can set the zero stop to stop where ever you want it to. Just take care on how much torque you put on those set screws. It doesn't take much to lock it.

As for the lack of a turret lock, if you screw the zero stop set screw in and leave it so that it's touching the above mentioned collar, the turret won't turn. I mean, you can get it to turn with enough force, but it certainly won't get bumped out of place while you're hunting. I'm toying with the idea of putting a small dimple in the collar to provide the set screw a recess to fit into, thereby making it a true lock. Of course, you'll need a tool to unlock it, but in the field, small adjustments can be made using the reticle.
 
So my issue with torquing the tube and feeling it in the SF knob on the epl4 has happened enough to other folks that its google able.
Ive now got mine on my S20 with integral rail, and Nikon type A rings set to 20in/lbs. No noticeable drag when running the focus, but at 25lb it starts to.
Hmmm interesting. Maybe 22in/lbs is the sweet spot?
 
I wonder what the torque spec is from Arken. I know that Vortex warns not to exceed 18 in/lbs on their scopes. Even the Vortex rings are labeled 18 in/lbs on the ring caps. On the ones I have, anyway.

I've been using 18 in/lbs on all of my scopes for years (ever since I bought my first Vortex) and haven't had anything slip on me.

Before that I used 25.
 
Arken torque specs are 18 inch pounds for the rings and 30 inch pounds for their one piece mounts.

I have the Arken SH-4 and SH-4J along with a Swampfox Optics Patriot. All three are 6-24. The Arken SH-4J with Japanese glass is the best out of the three with the Swampfox Patriot in the middle. The Arken SH-4 is still a decent scope for the price though.
 
Arken torque specs are 18 inch pounds for the rings and 30 inch pounds for their one piece mounts.

I have the Arken SH-4 and SH-4J along with a Swampfox Optics Patriot. All three are 6-24. The Arken SH-4J with Japanese glass is the best out of the three with the Swampfox Patriot in the middle. The Arken SH-4 is still a decent scope for the price though.
Hmmm interesting. Maybe 22in/lbs is the sweet spot?
If the slip ill try just that
18-20 is usually what i use also, tho ill go as high as 25 if the scope slides..... Rings like the Nikon A's dont offer the clamping force of other options.
I had binding starting at 15-16 on my Patriot, but its mounts are a little crooked. The S20 is straight as straight can be, so it allowed me to see where ring compression actually squeezed the tube enough to cause issues.

Ive got 30mm and 34mm Arken Halos. They are pretty wide, and hold really well set even below 18lbs.
 
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Because I was in a pinch and they could deliver quickly, I ordered a set of the Monstrum Pro (I believe it was) rings. At half the cost, they have an uncanny resemblance to Vortex Pro rings, which aren't cheap. They're pretty nice. They also have the 18/30 in/lbs torque specs.
 
The 18/30 inch pounds seems to be an industry standard now days. I know that Swampfox Optics uses the same for their one piece mounts.

I have not used any Monstrous rings but I have used a couple of their mounts. They are decent quality. The last one I bought was a RMR mount for Mossberg shotguns.
 
Ive got Monstrum rings and mounts in use on a couple rifles.....so far so good.
I did notice the aluminum is a little softer than the more expensive mounts, but they have been straight and true.
The V1 Monstrum precision rings also have their recoil stops dead center middle, and they are narrow enough to miss the slots in my center groved pic rails.
 
Ive got Monstrum rings and mounts in use on a couple rifles.....so far so good.
I did notice the aluminum is a little softer than the more expensive mounts, but they have been straight and true.
The V1 Monstrum precision rings also have their recoil stops dead center middle, and they are narrow enough to miss the slots in my center groved pic rails.
The Monstrum rings I got are advertised as being 7075. They seem pretty solid. When tightening the base screws, they bottom out and then very little movement to get to torque setting. Not much give at all.
 
The Monstrum rings I got are advertised as being 7075. They seem pretty solid. When tightening the base screws, they bottom out and then very little movement to get to torque setting. Not much give at all.
We probably have different versions then, mine are listed to 6061. As a whole they are plenty strong and rigid, but i bent the rail clamp on one set.
I just ordered another set of 34s for the Forge
 
We probably have different versions then, mine are listed to 6061. As a whole they are plenty strong and rigid, but i bent the rail clamp on one set.
I just ordered another set of 34s for the Forge
That monstrum mount you sent me seems pretty sturdy for what they are, not sure id trust a long scope on it but a 3-9 or 4-12 it should be fine.
 
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